Raised the white flag today, stalling issues...

[dimeified]

Thought i had the problem solved. Car stalled on me at the NJ Turnpike again at idle. After a minute it started again. I knew right when it was going to stall, i saw the rpms drop out slightly. Usually when this happens i can get away by brake/clutching with left foot, and hold gas entire trip with right foot, but I only do this to get me home to look at the issue again. Anyway, i decided to just drop the car off at Powertech in Rockaway NJ for them to look at it.

I've been on a good DIY streak lately, and its only been the past year that i've been so active in this respect, so it IS dissapointing, however, I am no mechanical expert, and im sure this problem is beyond my scope. I can tell you guys that i do have spark and the car cranks, so fuel has to be the culprit. Anyway, I just felt like venting some frustration.

[Mr.Puff]

That sucks. My 84 Targa likes to stall . No clue why. It might have to do with my throttle cable having a little play? Maybe I'm not giving it as much gas as I think I am.

[300cd300sdl911]

Fixed the stalling problem on my 85 Targa recently by cleaning the Idle Control Valve (ICV). If you haven't checked that do a search.

[Rikao4]

nothing wrong with ..I fold,
sometimes it's cheaper than replace this/that, + you can enjoy the car..
if they find the problem..do what I have done..talk to the wrench and learn how,where..what made you go there..
Rika

[tshih]

Probably a bad DME relay, or CHT sensor needs update, or other problems. Need more info as to mileage , recent tune up mileage, fuel pump and filter and fuel pressure readings? I assume its your 1984 cab that you're having problems with.

[dimeified]

Tried replacing dme relay. Cap/rotor are 7 months old. Alternator replaced months ago as well. Jumping tach started after that. Replaced voltage regulator, did not solve issue, tach still is jumpy. Have to hold gas pedal during cold start (old valve). New valve hunts at startup, clean it, and it was fine for a day. Next morning hunted again. Stalls happen with either valve. Waiting for replacement valve (warranty) then going to get mixture set.
The hot stalls at lights/tolls happened days after i replaced my stereo head unit, and installed a self powered kenwood sub under the passenger seat. Like i said, replacing the dme helped, immediately to restart after a stall. I did disconnect my battery negative while working on the stereo replacement. I thought maybe the ground wasnt a good connection. Cleaned the strap and battery post to no avail. I cleaned the alternator pos and neg connectors as well. Still get jumpy tach. Stalls only when i roll and engine idles, or stopped and engine idles.

My father is convinced its the fuel filter since it hasnt been changed since i had the car 2 years ago (And who knows when it was changed before then.)
I think it is electrical, since this started happening days after my stereo changes...

Timeline

changed cap/rotor---7 months go by---changed Alternator----2 months go by---bouncy tach---weeks go by---replace vr---weeks go by---replace stereo---2 days go by---cant start car at all for days, cranks tho---2 days--- replace dme relay, car starts up---days go by---stalls---clean grounds after stereo install, no stalls for 2 days---stalls today, drove straight to powertech. i had to keep rpms up going there cause i almost stalled. ---

I park it there, give them the key. They go to move the car, OF COURSE THEY CANT GET IT TO STALL, they let it sit and idle for at least 20 minutes while i waited. One pelican in another post said because of the jumpy tach and the stalling, its most likely a reference sensor... time will tell.

[the]

a proper and thought out diagnostic and checking plan works best, but blind guessing is more fun, and here's mine: Idle control valve.

[dimeified]

Well i got the car back from powertech. They could not find anything wrong with it. They did notice a suspect ground connection to the crank sensor, but even that wasn't a definate cause of the problem. I didn't have a stall issue either on the way home. In any event, i've sent the faulty idle control valve back to pelican waiting for a replacement. It may also be related to my stalling issue. It doesnt close all the way.

[Steve W]

have you tried adjusting the base idle mixture and base idle speed yet?

[dimeified]

Hi Steve... I havn't yet. I'm waiting for the replacement valve to arrive. I asked in the regional section of the forums for a reputable shop to set gas/mixture and was just reffered to one close by... http://www.stableenergies.com/

The base/idle mixture is top priority after i get the new valve on and check for vacuum leaks on my own. What would the idle/mixture job run me at most shops anyway? I dont have a gas analyzer, so i'd rather have it done properly.

Another question about those clamps at the top of the hose above the icv, they dont look adjustable. Why did porsche use those? They seem real dinky. Is it ok to replace both of them with good solid hose clamps to be sure there is no leakage of air?

[Steve W]

There are many threads on this if you search under my screenname. I just get a little tired of reposting the same thing over. I don't know what a shop would charge you to set the CO, which should be 0.6-0.8% pre-cat. If you have a digital voltmeter, you can do it yourself pretty well. See my post here:

Idle Hunting -- The problem continues!!

After, you'll need to adjust the base idle speed per the procedure on second half of the page here:
http://www.911chips.com/dmeconvr.htm

Check that your idle microswitch works consistently on throttle return.

You can search all topics here:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/search.php?searchid=681882

[dimeified]

Thanks! I'll definately try to do it myself first.