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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern New Jersey
Posts: 439
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Adjusted clutch, but oh no!
Well,
Decided to take a crack at it. For a while now, i would have to push the clutch all the way to the floor to engage/disengage. Not only that, but the return spring wouldnt pull the pedal back all the way, i would have to tap the pedal with my foot,. So i decided to adjust it. The jam nut on the bolt to set the gap was a little loose, so i tightened it up. Then i tightened the clutch cable. Now the spring returns the pedal all the way. And the clutch engages/disengages right after i press down past the initial return spring. For some reason tho, i can smell clutch when i get out of my car after i drive somewhere. What did i do wrong? It all feels correct, im stumped. ----------------- By the way, for those of you that read my idling problem post, i realized that when you take the valve apart to clean it, you must be sure it goes back together the same way. When i put mine back together i accidentally twisted it so electric center was no longer valve center. I was able to fix this. wooohooo!
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1984 Porsche Carrera Cabriolet - sold, regrettably 2003 Toyota Matrix - VVT @ 6K FUN - sold, not regrettably 2005 Mercedes C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan - now... |
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12-10-2007, 11:18 AM
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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One scenario goes like this:
As your clutch wore, you had to push the pedal farther and farther down to get it to release. The wear didn't go away when you adjusted things. You are smelling a slipping clutch. When I wore a clutch to the point of slipping I noticed it when shifting into 5th gear while accellerating briskly. The rpm would increase a bit more than it should in the new gear. If I let off the gas, and then pressed again, things seemed to hold. I suppose that between air resistance and the least torque multiplication at the transmission this was where the clutch felt the most torque from the engine. Don't recall smelling anything, though. Might just be my bad sniffer. I assume that you left a little play in the lock nut/bolt part? There is a spec for this, but there needs to be at least a little gap there so that the throwout fork isn't always pushing - even a little - on the throwout bearing. I also assume that your clutch pedal now engages somewhere in the middle of the travel. It used to engage when you let it come up just a tiny bit from the floor. Now it is in the middle, and not all the way up at the top of its travel? Again, you don't want to have any of these springs pulling on the TOB when your foot is off the clutch. So you set engagement not too low, but not too high either. Somewhere in the middle to suit your taste. You mention this in relation to where various springs start to work, but for me anyway it is easier to think of where in the range of pedal motion engagement/disengagement happens. Walt Fricke |
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12-10-2007, 11:36 AM
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Tired Member
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Quote:
I have a new clutch, disk and flywheel and still have to tap the pedal to get full return. My problem is an old cable. I'll bet that is your problem, too. Proper clutch cable adjustment can be found in the last two paragraphs here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_clutch_cable/911_clutch_cable.htm
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Glenn Daily Driver - '78 911SC RoW Endurance Racer - '85.1 944 Street/Track Project - '86 951 Race Project - 944 Spec Last edited by DaddyGlenn; 12-10-2007 at 01:01 PM.. Reason: added content |
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12-10-2007, 12:53 PM
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"The Porsche"
Endurance Racer
944 Spec "The green car"
Scalded Cheetah?
