Safest way of putting parts together?

I'm finally getting there - when all the parts have been cleaned, some painted, and the fun starts - putting it all together again!

I have new rear bearings, and don't want to risk doing any damage to them, so my question is:
Part #11 (below) is supposed to be pressed through the bearing - is it safe to do this by tapping with a rubber hammer (for instance) or do I need to have a workshop do this, with a hydraulic press, to eliminate damage that tapping might make?



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1972 911S Targa
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My project!

I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I think you need a special tool to insert bearings, and I also think you are supposed to chill the bearing so it shrinks.

Bentley says that a rear bearing is one of those jobs that is easy, but the price of the tool is more expensive then having a wrench do it

My misstake;
I didn't express myself clearly enough.. ..
The bearings ARE already in the control arms (I had a shop do that), but now I need to continue putting parts together, and that is when I encountered this.

Thanks!

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1972 911S Targa
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My project!

Bo,

I would recommend having it done on a press. That way, the risk of damage is minimized. You don't want to have to replace the bearing again, soon, I'm sure!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Hi, i've done it while converting the rear hubs to 5 bolts on a 914. Ok it's not the same but the design is kinda similar.

Here is what i've done:

Go to a hardware store, find a big threaded rod (5/8) 2 large nuts and several BIG washers. I opted for 3 for each end. Find 4 washers big enough to catch the outer race of the bearing and 2 smaller one so that the nut (for the threaded rod) doesn't go thru the big washers.

Use the threaded rod like this (from the exterior to the interior all this on the axis of the rod)

NUT-WASHERS-HUB-BEARING-WASHERS-NUT.

Make sure the inner washers are placed properly on the outer race of the bearing and that the rod is in axis with the assembly and start tightening the exterior nut. Keep the rod from turning using a set of vise grips on the exterior side of the rod. While you tighten the exterior nut, the hub will start to go into the bearing. Make sure it's going in straight.

At one point, you can remove the hub, and use the drive shaft to finish off the job. If the castelated nut doesn't catch the driveshaft, you can put it one backwards and start tightening. Once you have enough threads on the driveshaft, put the castelated nut back on like it should and finish tightening it to spec.

I've used this to remove the bearings, put the new ones back in and finally for the hub.

It worked for me.

Marc-Andre Morin
Quebec, Canada
70 914-6 conversion 2.2