dugr, is that relay as good as say a JWEST relay to take load off switches?

The the fog light relay is good and does it’s job. Porsche didn’t use a headlight relay. The jwest relay saves the steering column switch.

so for a 77 fuse panel, i still look for the grey wire which comes from the fog switch and activates the relay (black round relay position 2) and move it to a switched (ignition on) fuse (bottom) so when ignition on and switch left pulled out, i have DRLs instead of having to have headlights on as well. The other option is just leave switch pulled out, and turn HL on when driving

Since my fog light switch doesn't illuminate unless pulled all the way out (one day i will locate the blue/white wire and see whats the deal there cause if cant see my switch in the dark unless i have the switch pulled out (on).

I just redid the fuse panel with a modern panel from Classic (work of art, but narrow holes and thick short wires makes the conversion more difficult then their install video makes it look)

in the fall i have to redo the vent system since something is wacky there and i have seemingly little control over hot air/cold air up/down so while in there will look at fog light switch to see why not illuminating and look at if i should run a switched wire to replace power from light switch

some thing to try tomorrow night..

if i am incorrect let me know otherwise

thanks

bob

Bob,

I just looked at a 77 manual and it "should" be on fuse #2. None of my books show the wire color for a 77.

Easy Test

1. Remove fuse #2 and see if the foglights come on with the low beams. If the fogs lights don't come on, you most likely found the relay's B+ source. If not, put the fuse back in go to the next tests.

2. With the fogs and low beams on, take a v/m to the fuse block to see what's hot and what's not. (Make sure you have a good ground, I use the battery ground post since it's close.)

3. Do the same test again but, with the high beams on. That should give you a good indication of where the source of the b+ for the relay is coming from.

4. Remove the cold fuses that you found when the high beams were on (should be no more than three).

5. Put the low beams back on and start putting the fuses in one at a time, it shouldn't take long to find the relay's B+ source. Then decide on a B+ source of preference and you should be good to go.

As far as the foglight switch... On my 81, the light only comes on when the switch is pulled out. Unlike the rear window defogger which has night-time elumination and is brighter when on. So it's either the switch is working as intended or, we both have a problem.

The vent system... Another engineering marvel that's as intuitive as a Rubik’s cube.

Doug

For some, flashing headlights to signal another driver either means "OK, go ahead" or "Not OK"

I think in truck parlance, flashing headlights twice in succession means "OK". IMHO, use whatever signal you deem appropriate to acknowledge communication with another driver, but proceed carefully. Slightly better than reading minds.

Sherwood

Sherwood

Reviving a revival of the revived...

I did this years ago on my now gone 86 911 and it was great for my cross country drives, rally trips, etc...am doing this now with my other 86 and wondering how it's holding up for everyone?

My biggest concern is the heat from my original fog lamps/lamp bulbs especially for long drives in the mountains, following groups in rally drives, etc...

I have Hella lamps on my adventure motorcycle and have rallye lamps on my old Land Rover and really like the function of "driving light" as my old cars and motos have none.

So, with a 1986 coupe with factory fog lamps is there a bulb some would recommend to replace the factory original that might not give off so much heat???


Thanks for any insight...

Erik

Spoke makes his LED panels for fogs: https://www.spokeworksled.com/product-page/911-foglight-boards-pair

Mark

I will research, forgot about the LED panels...

Thanks!

Erik

For anyone doing this for the 87-89, fog lights are triggered with the parking light circuit. I followed Won's suggestion of bringing a 12v switched source to the fog light switch to replace the wire coming from the parking light circuit. This allows me to turn the fog lights on without the parking lights, and ensures they turn on/off with the ignition when the switch is pulled. This allows them to function as DRLs.

I looked at the all ways to access the fog light switch from the frunk, and decided instead to try and remove the clock to access the switch. I have small hands, so this was a very easy way to get to the switch. I removed the clock, unscrewed the switch pull by turning it counter clockwise. Then I used some snap ring pliers to loosen the plastic cap that holds the switch in place.

On removing the switch, there is a black/blue wire which is 12v illumination for the switch, brown (ground), Blue with white (feed to relay) and grey with white (12v trigger from parking lights). I believe the grey/white was attached to pin 1 on the switch, but there was an open pin as well so I can't recall entirely.

I went ahead and ran a wire with a 5amp inline fuse from Fuse 4, which is a 12v switch ignition. I fished it to the switch, connected it up, and I'm in business.

Now my fogs work as DRL or fogs, I can leave the switch pulled and they turn on/off with the ignition, or push the switch in and they stay off.

Hope this helps someone!