|
|
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Hi All,
I looked at a '84 911 today. 126k miles needs new front fender, significant rust around headlamps.Rust at corner of pass door sil heading up the door post, talking about 8" worth of "nothing but hole" this is right above jack port. Rear valence and supports behind muffler rusted thru. Was in accident and pass side ( where rust was ) painted non matching color. My question is what does rust repair to cure cost. I know fender, new door post, sil( outer frame panel&inner frame panel, jack receiver and bracket, rear valance and supports needed,as well as both windshield frame corner repair pieces, but what would welding cost to cut in and re weld run. Can it be made GOOD? Mechanically seems sound, except A/C not working and no records. thanks for response Barrier |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Forgot price 12k, clutch pedal has some minor return problem.
Barrier |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Unfortunaltly, I can't tell you what it would cost where you are but I suggest that you have PORSCHE body guy look at it.
I know that, per wheel, the shop wanted $350 just to cut the old flares out and put the turbo ones in. That, compared to what you are talking about, would appear relativly simple so I would expect it to cost atleast that if not more to have the work that you are talking about done. I think that $12K is quite a bit on the high side but I don't have the market info to back me up at this time. A wild guess: $8K As always, have a Porsche tech check it out before you do anything. Adam Roseneck ------------------ 1978 911SC 3.0 roseneck@cyberbeach.net |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Run Away, Run Away
|
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
I posted a reply to this earlier but it got lost when the site shut down. Basically that car is only worth what you can part it out for. It would make a good donor for a nice rust free roller chassis. There is probably 3 times more rust that you can't see. Look elsewhere unless you are a pro body-man.
------------------ Tyson Schmidt 72 911 Cabriolet |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
When you are buying a 914, you need to deal with varying levels of rust.
An 86 911 should not have any rust. If the one you are looking at does, there are lots of other ones that don't. Don't even think about it anymore. Move on. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Car is 1984 not 1986.
Is there any hope for a car with rust problems? Should rust be an instant flag to avoid a car? I'm not talking about a little surface problem, but serious corrosion. Does anybody know if those inhibitors work? Barrier |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
From what I know, those cars were galvanized and there is one sitting infront of the factory for 20 years and hasn't rusted. That means that this car seriously neglected/dammaged.
If you were looking for a specific type of 356 or a rare 911 it may be worth it (for sentimental reasons only) to do the work. There are TONS of 911s in great shape around that could be bought. Just a heads up, but its your call. Adam Roseneck ------------------ 1978 911SC 3.0 roseneck@cyberbeach.net |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Hi,
Thanks for all your comments and advice its appreciated. The car still intrigues me, maybe the rolling shell idea might work, sorta like a kit car. Nahh I must be nuts! Lew [This message has been edited by Barrier (edited 03-05-2001).] |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
This post should have read '84 not '86.
Barrier |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
I have an 84 911 which was a bit rusty when I bought it. Door jambs (typical) were rusted through, but looked like it was only surface rust. Panels under the doors were rusty, the front fenders were rusty, the rear panel under the bumper was badly rusted etc. Today the car looks perfect and is in perfect condition (I'm talking bodywork only here). I'm happy now but my bank account isn't. Trust me when I say that it's EXSPENSIVE to restore a rusty 911. Haggle the price lower and then (if you can do the work yourself) go for it. If you need to pay labour like I did...IT'S GOING TO COST A LOT.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
In the immortal words" "RUN FOREST! RUN!"
The cost of a restore is almost always more than buying a better car outright. Sure your initial outlay is less, but in the end, you almost always pay more. (I learned the hard way) |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
As the owner of a 914 with rust, do what they say and run. It's not even worth 6 or 7k if you plan to drive it.
For instance, the clutch "problems." My 914 had clutch problems, in that the clutch wouldn't disengage: turned out to be because the frame where the outer hosing of the cable binds to was rusted so when you pushed the pedal, the whole cable just got pulled into the frame of the car. No way to fix it either... I can't even begin to tell you what kinds of problems you will face later with a rusty car, but consider trunk latches breaking where they're bolted to the frame and so on; and these can never be fixed permanently because rust just grows and grows from below the paint. ------------------ Kurt B 1984 911 Carrera Cabriolet |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Back to the top.
|
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
Barrier,
I just we are both looking at the same car. I guess inspite of the intruiging photos the seller sent me, maybe I'll just simply walk away. Thanks, Fred |
||
|
|
|
|
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
BTT
|
||
|
|
|