3.2 case WILL NOT SPLIT

Trying to split my 3.2 case. All bolts, nuts removed but something is still holding at the rear (flywheel) end. On every side I can see movement between the halves except flywheel area. I say again, ALL bolts and nuts are removed. I've done this before and never had this trouble! Suggestions???
Tom

I know you said you got them all but how about that hidden fella in the cam housing area inside the case?? That one like to stay hidden from me for quite some time.

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78 3.0L CIS 911SC

Well I got it open. I threatened to replace it with a V-8.
I actually think it was the rear seal the was keeping the halves from separating easily. I removed it and the case came apart.

Hello

The last two casestuds have an precison sleve at the halves.

So now this is how the factory splits cases:

Get an old big screwdriver.
Place it beetween the casehalfes in the lower area from the breathercutout.

I talk about the inside, if an hole or an scratch is in there it will not harm. Then force the screwdriver in until you have it split aprox. 2 mm apart. then use an big plastic hammer and knock on the lower overstanding casehalfes until you see an gap. then just pull the thing apart with the passenger side down. ( You might know why )

The factory normaly uses hydraulic pullers.

Grüsse

I wouldn't suggest placing a screwdriver near the case when separating it. It's very easy to get frustrated and slip, or messup and use it in the wrong manner.

The rubber mallet is a good idea, and sometimes a clamp that can be expanded inside the flywheel seal (just to get it started) is a good idea too. This is kindof hard to explain, but I think you get the idea...

-Wayne

Hello

I try it again. There are following points that are allowed to use to split the case.

Just an try to descripe them.

on the underside the right half has overstanding edges in front and rear. It is allowed to hammer on then. The fancarrier is alowed to get splitet by an wedge ( Screwdriver ) or by hammering against the inner cutout surface.

Said position on the rear is inside the engine abouve mainbearing 5/6. As this is inside the case ah leak caused by scratches will not harm as oil follows gravity and it is enclosed in the engine anyhow. mybe it will ad an slight wisthle when the gases rush by into the oiltankventilation.
Normaly you pry an wedge in there and hammer up the oppesite side.

It is allowed to slightly tap on the outher rear edges behind the flywheel.

For Hammering you use an plastic hammer especialy dead blow ( filled with lead ( and hammering means a bit more then slight droping. Magnesium engine cases net a lot care. Aluminium engine cases are more solid and after you made some you know how much force is needed.

Separating an standard engine is an very easy task. Spliting an shuffle pined race engine can give you some nice hours.

Every other place is tabu as it can destroy the case or force further leakage. You can add some force at pulling at the cylinderhead studs but only limited please and not on magnesium cases.

I think the factory manual from 1965 showed it in pictures just look in your archive.

Grüsse