Help! Frozen nut has defeated me.

[rcecale]

Originally Posted by Ducman

Don't need that fancy tool - if I decide to sacrifice my nuts I'll just cut'm off like a man.

C'mon! Be a real man!


Randy

[calling911]

Originally Posted by dtw

Ah ha - ok, slow down. You probably don't need to pull the thermostat to check function. When the engine warms up, you should hear some gurgling as the oil passes through the lines. The lines should also heat up. If you have access to a pyrometer, you can also shoot the lines to get a temp reading.

I had a similar issue with my 2.7. Could NOT figure out why it was overheating - under all conditions. Even cruising in cool weather would cause the temp needle to steadily climb into the "too damn hot" zone. Finally tore the engine apart and found heads with completely shot valve guides and valves. The heads were trapping heat in the engine. Strange, because the engine was not at all smoky. Hopefully this is not the case in your engine - I'm currently about $4k into the rebuild and counting...

I don't think you found your problem. "The heads were trapping heat in the engine"? HUH? Maka no sensa to me. If I am wrong I'd appreciate someone educating me on how this can be..

[calling911]

Originally Posted by rcecale

C'mon! Be a real man!


Randy

There is something very wrong about the fact that you found this picture and put it into this context. Perhaps you should consider a mental health professional before we read about you in the news.

[dtw]

Originally Posted by calling911

I don't think you found your problem. "The heads were trapping heat in the engine"? HUH? Maka no sensa to me. If I am wrong I'd appreciate someone educating me on how this can be..

Not to get too far off topic - but 911 heads are designed to transfer heat from the combustion process out of the combustion chamber and into the heads. Heat passes through the valves and transfers to the head through the guides and seats. If the clearance between the valve & guide/seat becomes too great, heat cannot pass into the aluminum casting (where it is cooled by the airflow) efficiently.

My engine was getting so hot that it was losing significant amounts of power when it got up there - like nearly 25% loss of power according to my butt dyno.

Not this time! Am making all the cooling mods I can get my hands on during the rebuild...

[calling911]

Originally Posted by dtw

Not to get too far off topic - but 911 heads are designed to transfer heat from the combustion process out of the combustion chamber and into the heads. Heat passes through the valves and transfers to the head through the guides and seats. If the clearance between the valve & guide/seat becomes too great, heat cannot pass into the aluminum casting (where it is cooled by the airflow) efficiently.

My engine was getting so hot that it was losing significant amounts of power when it got up there - like nearly 25% loss of power according to my butt dyno.

Not this time! Am making all the cooling mods I can get my hands on during the rebuild...

Still doesnt make sense to me.. but ok.. anyway.. back to the nutcracker thread..

[Dennis Kalma]

The dremel tool and a set of diamond edge cut off wheels is the trick. Just slice the nut in a couple of places, not all the way to the threads though, and then just use a small chisel to open the nut. It will just spin off at that point.

It takes a while, but the local Princess Auto (Canuck equivalent of Harbor Tools) sells a 3 pack of diamond dusted cut off wheels for about 8 bucks (or $693.50 American at current exchange rates) and they slice through quite easily.....

Dennis

[Ducman]

Thanks for all the input (except for the rusty butterknife)

I may in fact give up. Taking the tstat off was just one of many things I'm doing in an effort to diagnois high temps. Everything I can do to diagnois tstat with it on the car says it's actually OK - but the only way to be sure is to get it out, if getting it out were easier it might be worth the effort, but based on the probability that it's ok - and that I'll ruin it or something else in the process.... I think I should just stop.

[dtw]

Cooling issues can be really frustrating. Take a look through the archives, there are some REALLY good threads. If none of those help, start a new thread. I agree, ditch removing the 'stat (for now).

Did the car ever cool well, or has there been a recent change in your operating temps?

[911pcars]

Ducman,
Maybe I missed the post where you removed the entire thermostat and oil lines from the vehicle. Removing the cooler lines from the thermostat on the vehicle is a difficult job due to the aforementioned corrosion and the limited access to work angles.

Dropping the entire systems doesn't take long. On the bench or ground, there's easy access for any manner of removal suggested, either by cutting the oil line fitting with a Dremel or equivalent or using heat with Kroil or PB Blaster and a couple of wrenches and 3 foot handles.

However, your latest assessment of your heating issues is correct. I'd step back and think this through and confirm the problem is not something else, then proceed. For example, if the supply the line to the cooler is cold or at least not hot, that would indicate partial or full blockage (bypass) at the thermostat. Check the easy stuff first (debris in engine, slipping drive belt, incorrect timing, incorrect heat range spark plugs, etc.).

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

[RWebb]

I agree w/Sherwood - definitely drop the the thing as a unit before doing anything more drastic.

[Superman]

If the cooler lines under the passenger-side rocker got hot, then that thermostat is probably not your problem. The first thing I'd check is the engine-mounted cooler. That is your first line of defense.

As always, listen to John. Not listening to John, which I have done a couple of times, is a mistake.

When I changed my lines, I fought with those nuts and eventually won. I used copious amounts of Maltby's penetrant over several days. I used heat. I wedged a block of wood between the wheelwell and the thermostat, to help hold it steady. I probably also used a LARGE channel-lock to help hold it still. It came off.

[fred cook]

I did this job a while back. I pulled the entire assembly off the car and then made this wrench to remove the stuck nuts.






It is made out of a piece of 1/2" thick steel with the hex cut out with a dremel tool and finished with a sharp file! It has enough mass to transfer the hammer blow effectively to the nut. A few whacks with a large ballpeen hammer and off they came!

[911pcars]

Fred,
That would be the ultimate flare-nut wrench. Drilled holes for lightness?

I was happily successful with the Porsche oil line wrenches and lengthy pipe extensions. For future DIYers, don't forget to apply copious amounts of anti-seize on the delicate al. threads before reassembly. Apparently, the factory fell short in this area.

Sherwood

[CarreraDan]

Would it be better to try an oxy/acetylene torch on those threads? I am just thinking out loud for future reference. I used to use a propane torch but one day I saw the light with oxy/acetylene and haven't met a stuck bolt or nut since.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by CarreraDan

Would it be better to try an oxy/acetylene torch on those threads? I am just thinking out loud for future reference. I used to use a propane torch but one day I saw the light with oxy/acetylene and haven't met a stuck bolt or nut since.

Yes, but not on the car as some parts are combustible in nature. However, some will inevitably try.

Sherwood