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CV Joint/Wheel Bearing questions

1983 Cabriolet

1st - I am having to replace LT side CV boots which should have been a very easy job. I stripped out the head of one of the CV joint to flange bolts on the inside (don't ask - dumb move on my part). Any how I got that handled but need to know if I can move the car around with out the axle stub in the wheel bearing. I used to be a Chrysler technician & the front wheel bearings on transaxle vehicle would split and be ruined if you rolled the car without a stub in the bearing.

2nd - Pelican's parts diagram & Porsche's parts diagram show a gasket between the CV boot flanges and CV Joints - my inner does not have it (haven't removed the outer boot yet) - are they necessary? I have ordered new ones & have no problem using them, just wondering why my car would not have them

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1983 911 SC Cabriolet
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Dave
Old 01-18-2008, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
1st - I am having to replace LT side CV boots which should have been a very easy job. I stripped out the head of one of the CV joint to flange bolts on the inside (don't ask - dumb move on my part). Any how I got that handled but need to know if I can move the car around with out the axle stub in the wheel bearing. I used to be a Chrysler technician & the front wheel bearings on transaxle vehicle would split and be ruined if you rolled the car without a stub in the bearing.
I hope not, I've been moving mine around with the axles out. I even towed it down the street to a neighbors house to do some welding. I've seen lots of cars in the same situation, so I don't think it does any harm.

Quote:
2nd - Pelican's parts diagram & Porsche's parts diagram show a gasket between the CV boot flanges and CV Joints - my inner does not have it (haven't removed the outer boot yet) - are they necessary? I have ordered new ones & have no problem using them, just wondering why my car would not have them
They can be a PITA to put in, so many folks don't use them. I only use them on the stub axle end. I have a metal cover on the tranny end of the axle. Part #19 in this diagram. These are a much cleaner install, as that is the end that is most often removed. I'm using them on my 73 with the 4 8mm head bolts and the two roll pins. I don't remember if these were stock for this year, but it's what I have. I got the covers from Pelican years ago.

Two things I like to do with my CV boots that I've found works well. Cut the spray tube from an empty aerosol can in half, and put one under the inner edge of each boot (far enough so it reaches the void) to allow air to move in and out as the joint moves. I also like to put a zip tie around the middle of the boot. Just snug enough to hold it in place. This prevents the boot from expanding under centrifugal force. I've never had a boot fail on my car or the race cars I used to maintain.
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John Snodgrass
1973 Porsche 911 "Barney" (race car for sale)
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Old 01-19-2008, 01:26 AM
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John can you give us a diagram of what you are talking about here.
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Old 01-19-2008, 07:29 PM
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Better then that I'll take a picture on Monday and post that.
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2008 Nissan Maxima - Daily Driver
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:43 PM
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cool
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:36 PM
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John,

What purpose does that metal cover serve that you provided the link to? I just pulled my half-shafts off today to get ready for an engine drop tomorrow, but if there is an improved part, I'd like to order it before bolting this back together.

thanks,
Frank
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:42 PM
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Ok, I did a little searching and believe I found the end caps you are describing. Take a look at this thread about half way down on the first page:

Carrera CV Boot Replacement

It appears these were used on 84+. Do you know if this cap will fit the CV joint for a 77? Is there an advantage over not using them?
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:34 PM
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Yes those are the caps. For the 915 gear box, there are only two styles of CV joints that I'm aware of. The early style had 4 8mm Allen head bolts and 2 roll pins. The later had 6 6mm Allen head bolts. I don't recall the actual bolt size off the top of my head. The picture in that other thread shows the 6 bolt style, and I have the 4 bolt as the picture below will show. The second picture shows the breather tube and the extra tie wrap to control centrifugal expansion of the boot.

The main advantage I find by using the CV covers is that the joint at the transmission side stays clean. I use a little bead of oil resistant RTV gasket maker on the inside of the cap to seal it. In addition to keeping things clean, I don't have to deal with the little gaskets every time I pull them apart. And my car being a race car, it happens more the I would prefer sometimes.



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John Snodgrass
1973 Porsche 911 "Barney" (race car for sale)
2008 Nissan Maxima - Daily Driver
1999 F350 Diesel Crew Cab - Tow Beast
1990 Airstream 36' Land Yacht - Home Away From Home
Old 01-21-2008, 01:51 PM
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My '83 does not have the end caps as shown above. Six bolts. There is a gasket, but I think it goes between the joint and the flange. Not sure. It is a gasket with one sticky surface. So.....it should stay in place. And not need replacing.

No, you should not roll the car with the stub axle out. The stub axle is the thing the outer CV joint bolts to. It has a flange and a prong that goes through the bearing, and a nut goes on the other end. It holds the bearing together. Without the nut on, the bearing can easily come apart.
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:01 PM
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Where did you pick up these little nuggets, Other racers?
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Old 01-21-2008, 02:58 PM
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I crewed for Ron Zitza (Zotz Racing) back in the early 90's on his 914-6 SCCA GT-2 car. Part of the work we did between each race was to re-gear the transmission, and circulate the drive axles. Since this race car so low, the CVs were at an extreme angle. Before each race, we put a freshly serviced axle on the right, moved the right to left, then left to be serviced. Servicing included taking it apart, cleaning it, inspecting the races and balls for excessive wear or damage, pack with fresh grease and put it back together. I can't tell you how many times I did that exercise over a 2-3 year period.
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John Snodgrass
1973 Porsche 911 "Barney" (race car for sale)
2008 Nissan Maxima - Daily Driver
1999 F350 Diesel Crew Cab - Tow Beast
1990 Airstream 36' Land Yacht - Home Away From Home
Old 01-21-2008, 04:06 PM
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John,

Thanks for the info. One question - I notice the caps fit over your 4 bolt setup which use the M10 bolts. Looking at the PET I can see the cap was used in conjunction with the M10 bolt setup on Turbos and certain Carreras (G15 .72/73). Based on this, I assume the holes in the cap are for an M10 bolt. The CV joints/flanges on my 915 use the 6 M8x50 bolt setup. So will this be an issue or will the cap center itself over the ends of the CV joint so I don't have to worry about it shifting around over the M8 bolts when I'm installing?

Thanks,
Frank
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:29 PM
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The link to that other thread shows them on the M8 bolts setup. Not sure if there are two different covers or not. With a little rtv on the inside, and after the CV is torqued down I don't think it would move around at all. Since Pelican carries them, my suggestion would be to ask them.

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1973 Porsche 911 "Barney" (race car for sale)
2008 Nissan Maxima - Daily Driver
1999 F350 Diesel Crew Cab - Tow Beast
1990 Airstream 36' Land Yacht - Home Away From Home
Old 01-21-2008, 08:25 PM
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