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Carrera CV Boot Replacement

Had two cv boots ripped on the right side. Was worried about getting the axle nut off. 4' extension on the breaker bar, no problem. Started by putting rubber hose pieces on the studs to prevent damage. Large pry bar on the studs to hold the axle in place. I left the brake off while I was doing this. The lower shock bolt has to be taken off also, the axle will not come off with out doing it.



THis is what the looked like after getting them off.



I used a small drift the tap the end plate off the CV joint. After that was off, remove the circlip that holds the CV on the axle. I was able to just pull the CV off the end of the axle and on the driver side I used a large drift to lightly tap the CV off the axle. The axle was held in a vice so no pressure was put on the outboard CV. According to the manual you need to use a press to remove and replace the joint. Not so with mine.


Clean the CV that is removable. Do not clean the outboard CV unless it is contaminated with dirt and sand. You can't get them clean without taking them apart. Looked almost new after cleaning.
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Last edited by 88-diamondblue; 09-24-2006 at 07:51 PM..
Old 09-24-2006, 07:02 PM
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What they looked like after cleaning.


Had a blond moment while putting them back together.

Whats wrong with this picture?


Forgot to put the clamps on before putting everything back together.

Back together before the grease is put in. I only used half of the grease for the outboard CV's since you can't get the old grease out.



With grease.



New bolts and ready to go back on the car. Torqued the axle nut to 250ft lbs then put the breaker bar and extension to bring up to required torque 330 ft lbs. Am going to find a diesel mechanic (thanks to Grady Clay for this idea) to check the torque for me. Doing the second one was much quicker than the first and now I will know how to do it next time, 18 years from now


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Last edited by 88-diamondblue; 09-24-2006 at 07:47 PM..
Old 09-24-2006, 07:20 PM
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Nice work! I love threads like this with lots of pics and good explanation. It gives me the courage to go ahead and do it if need be. Thanks Michael.
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:34 PM
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I don't know why but I thought the axle nut was supposed to be tightened and loosened with the weight of the car on the wheels
Old 09-24-2006, 09:32 PM
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Thanks Henri, was actually easier than I thought it was going to be.
Rick
As far as the car being on the ground that may be what should be done. I didn't find any reference to it in the searches or the books that I read. I can see where that might be easier on the suspension. There was very little movement of the suspension taking the nut off. It released with out any fight. I did check before I removed it to see if in fact it was above 250ft lbs by putting a large 1/2 torque wrench on and checking it. The wrench clicked easily at 250. If you find more about that let us know.
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Old 09-24-2006, 09:43 PM
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nice work perfect timing..... i am gonna be doing this exact job this week and im NOT a mechanic.... but i did stay at a holiday inn express last night.....
Old 09-24-2006, 11:06 PM
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I'm doing this project too this week. The PS CV boots ripped both inner and outer. The inner one is easy enough. Done that a couple times now. But the outer one has me thinking a little bit. I mean if you can't get it all apart to clean it out why bother removing the entire axle from the car. Cause it's easier to work on?

It seems like to me that you could just remove the inner joint then remove the outer boot. Clean it the best you can, squirt grease in and slide the boot down the shaft and clamp it up. Then repack the inner joint and reinstall it. That way you don't have to worry about removing and re-torquing that nut to 250ft-lbs. Is this right or did I miss something?
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:07 AM
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until you have personally done the rubiks cube puzzle of CV 101, you'll will never experience the joys of it. thats why we carried (2) spares complete with coffee can lids duck taped to each end(keep grease and balls clean), hose clamped to off road race car frame. learned our lesson the hard way. good job. i watch my boots like a hawk!
Old 09-25-2006, 04:26 AM
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Michael,

Great pictures and descriptions. Thank you. I archived your
thread with the other good VO joint threads.

You can disassemble the outboard CV joint by tipping the
axle half-shaft to the side and removing the balls and cage.

What did you use for sealant between the end cap and the
inboard CV joint? Porsche calls for some white sealant
included in the kit. I am concerned about having much
elastic material in the “sandwich” that the CV joint bolts
have to clamp and compress tight.

Good job. Remember to re-torque the bolts soon
(100-200 mi) and then regularly.

For others doing this, note how the joint is assembled.
You can get it assembled wide-to-wide and narrow-to-
narrow but the joint locks up and is non-functional.




Best,
Grady
Old 09-25-2006, 05:51 AM
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Is it important and if so why, that you line up the new re-assembled joint the way it came out? I'm NOT talking about Grady's ref. to the wide/narrow sections of an individual joint, I understand that very well. Is it important to line up the wide from the inboard joint w/ the wide from the outboard joint? Or is that even an issue?

The reason I ask is I did my 968 axle a couple of weeks ago and the markings I made came off when I cleaned the parts. I made sure the wide/narrow relationship was correct on both joints but failed to check what the relationship was between the inboard and outboard joint before I re-assembled the shaft.

I was also told it was a good idea to make the former outboard joint the "new" inboard joint and vice-versa, this has the affect of making the wear on the opposite sides of the joint's inner surfaces. Is this correct.

Fantastic job of documenting this task, I wouldn't have wanted to get anywhere near my camera when I was doing this and it's a damn good thing my wife was out of town too....
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:55 AM
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Bill,

That is a very good question. While I don’t think the rotational orientation of the inboard-to-outboard joint has much effect (unlike a universal joint) how do they come from the Lobro factory?

I agree with rearranging things to equalize wear.

Best,
Grady
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:47 AM
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Grady, I'm glad it's not a known no-no, I've been fretting that. In my mind I couldn't see that it would cause a problem but I don't have the mind of a German engineer!

Also, thanks for the reminder to recheck the torque on the bolts, I forgot all about that.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:59 AM
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Grady,

I didn't use any sealant on the end plates. I have the Lobro kits which did not have anything to seal the end plates with. And yes you can line them up like Grady said. It becomes a solid axle. I didn't know you could get it wrong but I did what Grady said could happen on the first one. I will keep an eye on the endcaps to make sure it is not leaking grease.

Grady do you have to take off the metal that the boot attaches to to seperate the outboard CV and do I need to worry about the grease leaking or just watch and see what happens with it?

Charles, it just much easier to work on the part. I thought getting the axle off was going to be the hard part, but was just about the easiest thing I did.
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:23 AM
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Michael,

…do you have to take off the metal that the boot attaches to to seperate the outboard CV….
Yes, the shaft angle is more than the tin boot lip will allow. Simply tap it off like the end cap.

The Factory Carrera Workshop Manual shows installing some white sealant between the end of the CV joint and the end cap. While I like the idea of sealant, I don’t like having anything else in the “sandwich”, particularly something that has to be squeezed when the bolts are torqued.

Jim Sims did a great analysis of the clamping of CV joints. The critical point is to have steel-on-steel contact with no lubricant (or sealant). I’m considering making a slight cut on the outer corner of the joint and adding an O-ring.

I wonder if an aerosol sealant applied very thin and masked from the critical surfaces would work?

Best,
Grady
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Old 09-25-2006, 09:45 AM
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Bill,

Grease everywhere! Used dozens of rags and many trips to the wash room to wash my hands. I'm lucky to have a friend (the po of my car) that has a shop that I can do all this stuff in. Tools, parts washer, air tools, digital camera and large bolt/nut/washer selection. Have documented everything that I have done to the car with pictures. Used the pictures numerous time during the engine rebuild.
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Old 09-25-2006, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by wcc
... I mean if you can't get it all apart to clean it out why bother removing the entire axle from the car. Cause it's easier to work on?

It seems like to me that you could just remove the inner joint then remove the outer boot. Clean it the best you can, squirt grease in and slide the boot down the shaft and clamp it up. Then repack the inner joint and reinstall it. That way you don't have to worry about removing and re-torquing that nut to 250ft-lbs. Is this right or did I miss something?


I am glad to find this especially insightful thread -I was thinking of taking a similar tack and was wondering what are the inherent problems and challenges … (?)

In my case (1989), the outer boot is torn so I was planning to do both (on the same axle). Can I temporarily repack the joint with grease (cable tie the split boot close) and continue driving for a week or so until I can get to it …?

Last edited by Jascha; 10-15-2006 at 07:43 PM..
Old 10-15-2006, 07:33 PM
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I had at least 200+ miles on mine since I believe they split on the way to the track which is 200 miles away from home. I didn't realize that the outer joint would come out to allow cleaning and a repack until Grady replied. The picture of the opened cv with the old grease is how much was left after driving the 200+ miles before repairing. As long as your not on gravel roads and you get to it as soon as you can it should be ok.
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Old 10-15-2006, 07:51 PM
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Michael,

Confidence building super nice pictures...!

Since the outboard joint can not be disassembled I assume that there is enough arc motion to facilitate removal of the inboard joint and gain access to the boot(s)…

Is this a viable approach (if not, can the stub axle lock nut be removed without dismounting the wheel…)

Jascha
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Old 10-15-2006, 08:27 PM
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Jascha,

Thanks, I thought it was going to be a harder job than it was.
From what Grady said the outer joint can be disassembled and cleaned. My mechanic told me not to clean the grease out of a joint unless you take them apart and clean completely. Since I didn't know that when I did this I just added grease to the outside cv. The reason I thought this is, you just cant rebuild them. The cover on the outside cv that the boot is clamped to can be tapped off and that allows the joint to be taken apart. The nut can be removed with the wheel on the car. I ended up using a deep 11/4" impact socket with a long pipe on the breaker bar.

The other thing I did was to clamp the joints 180 degrees from each other so there was not a balance issue. Don't know if it makes a difference. Also make sure you don't clamp them in front of a bolt hole, I just about did that.
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:05 PM
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Yes, you could replace the boot by just pulling the inner joint off, but you would want to now that the boot failed very recently.

Grady, I like your idea of an aerosol sealant masked off. Good idea. There are many available on the market today that I would bet would do the trick. Certainly easier than and o-ring.

Cheers
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:06 PM
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