Rust-proofing a 1974 911

Larrybrook · 01-17-2008, 04:09 PM

I'm looking for some advice. I FINALLY finnished the restoration of my 1974 Targa and spent SOOOO much time and effort, I want to make sure my hard work pays off. As far as I can tell there has never been any rust-proofing done on this vehicle. What options do I have? Oil spray? Ziebart??

Whadday think?

DeutschMark · 01-17-2008, 04:11 PM

Nice work on the restoration Larry. Waxoyl is popular with the British car crowd.

Larrybrook · 01-18-2008, 02:12 PM

http://www.waxoyl.com/en/produkte/120-4.htm

Thanks for the info DeutschMark, I see from their web site holes are drilled into body pannels. This was the implied part of my question...Does Rust Proofing need to be "invasive" to be effective?

Could someone with as much patience as myself apply product "A" and leave no trace?

DeutschMark · 01-18-2008, 03:31 PM

Leave no trace? Probably not. You might have to drill a few holes. Do a search on this forum for rustproofing. You'll find plenty of information.

Here is a U.S. source for Waxoyl:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31500

rfuerst911sc · 01-19-2008, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeutschMark

Leave no trace? Probably not. You might have to drill a few holes. Do a search on this forum for rustproofing. You'll find plenty of information.

Here is a U.S. source for Waxoyl:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=31500

Any idea what size kit to do a car the size of our Porsches? I'd like to use this on my project car for doors and all empty cavities.

azasadny · azasadny's Garage

Beautiful Targa!!! I don't drive mine in the winter (salt on the roads) and I keep the car dry as much as possible.

RoninLB · 01-19-2008, 08:37 AM

Tectyl 846 is porsche factory preservative liquid wax as best I know.

also search pelican for Tectyl

Larrybrook · 01-19-2008, 12:57 PM

LOL!!!! azasadny, I don't even drive this car if there's rain in the forecast...She's in storage for the winter!!

I just dreaming/planning my next plan of attack!

I would really like to get some kind of rust proofing into those areas that need it but do it "stealth-fully". For example...I could take the door panels off and use an old Windex bottle with chainsaw bar oil, and spray around in there. No need to drill holes right?

What about the rocker panels and other "hollow" areas? Is there a diagram or reference material that shows the areas most in need?

Winters can be long and boring here in Canada, and if I can't DRIVE my 911 at least I can dream about her...

cperedina · 01-19-2008, 02:19 PM

Checkout what Darryl did with his 912 - a lot of insight on "rustproofing".
http://members.aol.com/darryld/912.htm

What I'm doing as I restore is clean, POR15, and undercoat sections as I go along. Should work just fine.

Larrybrook · 01-20-2008, 10:53 AM

I dont suppose anyone out there knows of a 3 dimentional view of these cars??

OR a how to/best way to spray rust proofing into 911 cavities that rarely see the light of day??

Thanx to fellow Pelicanites for your help so far I have the recipe/formula for home made waxoyl:

1 gallon mineral spirits
1/4 - 1/2 lb of cheap candles (parrafin works best, but is kinda spendy)
1/2 quart ATF

Oddly enough, mineral spirits will dissolve candle wax pretty easily. Grate the candles up with an old cheese grater, and put the shavings in the mineral spirits. Add the ATF and let things sit until the wax is in solution. If you want to speed things up, you can place the mix in a tub of hot water. Shake occasionally, and withing a week everything is set.

Larrybrook · 01-20-2008, 11:07 AM

Here's a crazy idea for the rear tortion bar tube...which Ii have read can get pretty rusty inside:

- Mix up a batch of home made Waxoyl
- Drill a small unobtrusive hole on the bottom of the tortion bar tube and install a grease nipple (That's right, I said nipple!)
- Pump the cavity full of Waxoyl and or a reasonable faximily
- let sit for a few hours then remove the grease fitting (notice I didn''t say nipple this time??) and collect the remaining Waxoyl for use in the next unsuspecting cavity???

I suppose you should re-install the grease fitting to avoid any dirt or debris from getting up in there. But this is the kind of thing ocupying my mind right now.

Does anyone see a problem with this approach? Will the homemade waxoyl dammage bushings; or perhaphs breath new life into the existing ones??

I duhno...you are the experts!

rfuerst911sc · 01-20-2008, 11:46 AM

To add to this conversation I have also heard of the following home brew rustproofing:
2.5 qts. turpentine
12 ozs. beeswax/candle wax
1 qt. light machine oil

I'm going to use some sort of homebrew on the project car.

Danskeren · 01-20-2008, 12:59 PM

From the part of the world where rain, snow and salt - and humidity from the sea will kill any car in less than 5 years if not protected.

Be very careful on any homemade recipes. Stick to the brands (tectyl, Dinitrol, waxoil etc.) if you care about your car.

The problem is if your coating starts cracking, water will get in under the coating - and STAY in. And you car will rust away even without letting you know before its too late. So better be sure this will not start cracking eventually.

Over here Tectyl and Dinitrol are seen as the best. And they have like 20 different types for different applications. Professional rustproof shops work based on "spray diagram" for each car type and model. This you should see if you can get some how.

Peter

Danskeren · 01-20-2008, 01:11 PM

You can read a little more here : http://www.rust.co.uk/filestore/rustbook.pdf

rfuerst911sc · 01-20-2008, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danskeren

From the part of the world where rain, snow and salt - and humidity from the sea will kill any car in less than 5 years if not protected.

Be very careful on any homemade recipes. Stick to the brands (tectyl, Dinitrol, waxoil etc.) if you care about your car.

The problem is if your coating starts cracking, water will get in under the coating - and STAY in. And you car will rust away even without letting you know before its too late. So better be sure this will not start cracking eventually.

Over here Tectyl and Dinitrol are seen as the best. And they have like 20 different types for different applications. Professional rustproof shops work based on "spray diagram" for each car type and model. This you should see if you can get some how.

Peter

I understand what you are saying BUT if a car has no protection the homebrew is going to be 90% as good as aftermarket in my opinion

For exposed areas like wheelwells I can see where the professional goop is better, but for empty cavities like inside doors or longs I'm thinking anything is better than nothing. Just my 2 cents

Larrybrook · 01-21-2008, 11:36 AM

hmmm...maybe I should trust a professional oil spray guy.

I'm calling out to my fellow Canadians. Can you recomend anyone in the London Ontario region?

Maybe now would be a good time to become a menber of Porsche Club of America, Upper Canada Region??

Danskeren · 01-21-2008, 01:36 PM

I fully understand you - however if your stuff starts cracking one day it will now keep the water underneath and it may never get out again. Rust is 100% guaranteed. And you may not see it before it comes out on the other side af the metal.

Then its better to have it unprotetcted since it will at least be able to dry up - and you will be able to see if it starts to rust.

Over here you can get a full prof. protection for like 600USD. I would never consider anything else. Not as much fun - but better for your car a´nd wallet.

BR
Peter