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Look at post 82 where I have my schematic.
At the controller pin 3 needs to have 12vdc as this is the feed input for the front blowers. Then when the front blower relay in the controller picks it shorts pin 3 to pin 4 and this pin 4 delivers the 12vdc to the front blowers. So you can actually unplug the controller from the harness and jumper pin 3 to pin 4 at the harness and with key in 'RUN' you'll have 12vdc at pin3 jumpered over to pin4 if the blowers work up front you have a issue with the controller if they don't work you have a issue with the line feeding pin4 to the blowers. Quote:
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Sal 1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body) 1975 911S Targa (SOLD) 1964 356SC (SOLD) 1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible |
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Ok jumped the 3&4 at the harness and the FW fans worked. Cool Thanks. Ok so now here the question, where do I go from here to get it working again?
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Great, that means all the footwell blower stuff is good.
I suspect that the relay inside the controller is not picking. Remove the tin cover and you'll see 2 relays on the board. One (the bigger one) is for the rear blower the smaller one for the front. With the tin removed look to see if/how they pick. If the rear blower is working then that relay is closed. Keep an eye on the other one to see what it's doing. You can even measure the voltage at the relay's coil to see if it is getting 12vdc. Also measure the resistance of the coil to see if maybe the coil burned out?
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Sal 1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body) 1975 911S Targa (SOLD) 1964 356SC (SOLD) 1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible |
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You know you stuff! The big coil is closing and rear blower is working. The smaller coil is not closing and the FW fans are not coming on. If i push down on the small relays arm to manually close it the fans come on. I measured the coil for resistance and its good. I can't seem to find the spot to test for power but if the jumper work it should be getting power right?
Last edited by krshome; 10-02-2013 at 04:22 PM.. |
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Correct, if the jumper worked it should be getting power. But if the rear blower is in place and running it should also be getting power.
Could be maybe you damaged some component while messing around with the jumper? Look closely at the area(s) you worked on. The little relay has a coil, one post is ground the other is 12vdc. It's at these posts you want to see if it has power, should be same posts you measured resistance. Also, do you have the old or new style relay? Quote:
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Sal 1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body) 1975 911S Targa (SOLD) 1964 356SC (SOLD) 1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible |
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Ok I starting to realize that maybe not everything was in working order to begin with. I never have been able to figure out all the heat leavers switches and knobs, if I got heat I was happy. Well after playing with the jumper on #3 +#4 i realized that the fan speed control for the FW fans never worked but with the jumper it does. Apparently the FW blowers have never worked since I have owned the car. The heat has been coming from the rear heater fan the whole time. I also tested #'s 9, 11,and 12 and I am getting power to the coil in the relay, so something is buggered up in the relay. I think I'm going to go the route of the cheaper relay's hard wired in place of what I have. One question will the aux cooling of the rear fan still work or not?
Last edited by krshome; 10-02-2013 at 12:23 PM.. |
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You can test the FW relay coil with a 9v battery. Connect negative to pin 2 on the controller unit. Run the 9v positive to the reed switch post shown in the photo above (post #114). If it operates the contacts the coil is good, if not, well, it's bad and that is the issue (as Sal suggested above).
To answer your question about the aux cooling function...I think that if you use the control unit with the jumper (as shown in post #114) the aux cooling function should work. But...the FW blowers will also come on since the jumper is using the engine blower power directly to operate the FW relay coil.
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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires '86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage '72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic Last edited by aj88cab; 10-02-2013 at 12:43 PM.. |
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Last edited by krshome; 10-02-2013 at 04:25 PM.. |
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For what it's worth, I also went down this path of figuring out the heat controller and in the end I simply removed the expensive controller and replaced it with simple automotive relays.
But here's another crazzy thought: if you don't plan to use the rear blower you could use it's relay to power the front ones. Here's how: Simply bridge pin #5 to #4 (see my post 82) this will just jumper the rear blower output pin#5 over to the pin#4 output for the front blowers. This will allow you to still resurrect your faulty relay. But if you do this I suggest you also cut pin #10 inside the relay box so that if engine temp rise it won't activate the front blowers. Crazzy Huuu?
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Sal 1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body) 1975 911S Targa (SOLD) 1964 356SC (SOLD) 1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible |
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Well that sucks...sorry!
Also to add to my comment on the aux cooling function. If you go with Sal's twin relay method you will loose the aux cooling function. The temp sensor that controls that feature is a contact to ground, not sure if it is N/O or N/C...but...I think with a third relay it could be made to retain the aux cooling. That's your homework assignment for tonight!
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'88 Carrera Cab 3.2 Diamond Blue Metallic - ERP Polybronze Bushings, ERP Monoballs, SW Chip, Bilstein Sports, 930S Steering Wheel, DAS Rollbar, Sparco 5pt Harness, Hunsaker Sport Seats, Dansk Pre-Muffler, MK 1in-1out Exhaust, Magnecor KV8.5 Wires '86 944NA, Sunroof Delete, Track Rat, Full Cage '72 914 1.7 Guards Red / '02 Audi S4 Light Silver Metallic |
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I was thinking of using the set up on post #36 with the 1N4001 diode on pin #10 for the engine temp switch. Does anyone know what amp relays to get 30 amp? Also is this the right diode http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268 ? Thanks Scareller for all the help
Last edited by krshome; 10-02-2013 at 04:37 PM.. |
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I used 40 Amp relays but the 30 amp will also work. Post #36 is my custom design with 2 relays and if you add the diode and the wiring to pin 10 you also have the Aux cooling feature. And that diode from radio shack is perfect.
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Sal 1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body) 1975 911S Targa (SOLD) 1964 356SC (SOLD) 1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible |
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Nice write up.
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Quote:
Regards
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You only need to wire up the center relay to run only the front foot blowers. No diode needed and also don't need the relay on the right side of the picture.
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Sal 1984 911 Carrera Cab M491 (Factory Wide Body) 1975 911S Targa (SOLD) 1964 356SC (SOLD) 1987 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible |
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Cheers
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Cheers Beaky |
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Quote:
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'87 Carrera (3.4L) w/Turbo, full-bay IC; front bumper aux oil cooler, etc. '07 Boxter |
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Having run the bypass relay for several years without issue, recently it worked intermittently and now stopped altogether.
I have good heat, so the flaps are opening, I have checked the fuses which are OK and the footwell fans work if powered directly. Turning the heat dial does not seem to be engaging the blowers, where and what could be the problem?
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