An overhead beam with a short steel choker, a 3/4-ton Come-along and a home-made spreader bar did the trick for me.
If you can access a beam or truss on the ceiling you can make a set-up for future use.
I use small shackles on the engine with 2 steel chokers going up to the hook and the spreader-bar (made from a 2x4) keeps the chokers from rubbing against the engine/intakes.
That gives full control over the whole process.
After lifting it off the stand, I set the engine on it's HE's onto 3/4" plywood on the floor, attach the transmission, then lift the whole unit again onto a narrow, low 4-wheel Dolly and roll it under the rear of the 911.
Then I raise each side carefully with small floor jacks and short pieces of 2x4 enough to get the Dolly out and the big floor jack onto the "sweet spot" in front of the sump plate to start the final jacking.
It's important to secure the whole unit sideways with dunnage to prevent it from tilting and falling off as you go up.
It's a one-man operation; very safe. :)

A made a lifting-plate from 3/4" plywood to get perfect balance on the jack.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206893297.jpg

Cleaned up the transmission and engine tin today. The trans may not be spotless, but it's far cleaner than the black blob it started out as. Once I got it to this point I called it quits for the day. It's 54° and drizzling out. Funny thing is, Friday it was 80°.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206900528.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206900607.jpg

We might be separated by about 2,500 miles but we have similar issues [strangly similar?]. The leaky one on the left belonging to the bride and the one on the right needing a top end. I was going thru 1 qt per 200 miles. Just got it back yesterday from having the top end done by Patrick Motorsports in Phoenix. They did an awesome job, plus a 'few' other things while they were in there. I'd have loved to try to tackle something like this myself, but I know my limitations which end somewhere around oil changes and brake pad replacement.

Just had to post this pic when I saw your intial set of posts with your garage.


Garage

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206925014.jpg


'New" engine

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206925062.jpg

This would be the time to check/replace the seals in the transmission.
Selector shaft seal, Guide tube seal, Axle flange seals are cheap and relatively easy to replace. :)

Finally hit the first real issue with the clutch project. Stripped screws. I suspect its gift from Stuttgart.

Any advice on how best to remove these screws?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207091659.jpg

Took the words right off of my keyboard!

And replace them with socket head cap screws.

Another help is to use "valve grinding compound" on the end of your screw driver tip. You won't believe the added grip it will give to the screw driver tip. It's magic...

Great thread, lots of excellent info here. Rob, thanks for documenting the whole thing!

CrossT,
Quite a coincidence, no? Also, I like the silver fan and black housing. Think I'll try that.

Enlisted the help of several co-workers and got the engine off the stand today. Hooray! Here’s how things look after 30 minutes of effort. Intake installed, and rear tin mocked-up into place.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207179197.jpg

Gotta love the understated black & "silver" combo, in my case-Titanium Ceramic coating:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207181651.jpg

The impact driver did the trick. The guide tube screws are out. The trans now has new seals. And the engine is together.

Unfortunately, the two are still separated. Why? Because I broke the throwout bearing. One too many pumps on the press while installing, and it's now a $115.00 piece of junk. :rolleyes:

Now I'm waiting on the replacement to arrive.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1207490410.jpg

When I did my clutch a couple of years ago, I didn't need my press. That seems to be asking for trouble, try the new one without it.

Yesterday I tended to a few odds-and ends.

I replaced the horrid double-strut setup/kludge for the engine cover. What I had was two struts on the RH hinge, held in place by clevis pins. It was a PITA to remove. The clevis pins were bent and grooved.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208606112.jpg

I replaced it with the OEM setup. I aquired a RH turbo hinge, new struts, factory pins, clips, and spacers. A bit of paint and this is what I have now.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208606414.jpg

Next I removed the rear bumper. That should make getting the engine in a bit easier. I won't have to raise the rear of the car so far.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208606527.jpg

Time to sign off. Today's goal is getting the engine and trans joined, and into the car.

Back again. Today was pretty productive. I spent the first half of the day getting the engine and trans assembled. It took longer than I expected.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208636862.jpg

By 3:30 the engine is in, and everything up top is hooked back up. Tomorrow I need to finish hooking up everything underneath.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208636962.jpg

Once again, AWESOME thread!

Where is the above bearing broken? That split in the inside diameter sleeve is supposed to be there.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1208637906.jpg


And yes, you don't need a press. I use my body weight on top the contact side of the clutch housing. Under the release bearing I put a short 2x4 laid across it. Instant 170 pound human press with just enough weight to flex the springs and allow me to install the release bearing shims, thrust washer and retaining clip. :D

By the way, congrats on getting it all back together.

Good luck on the first startup

Yep. But you’re too late. I was showing the new TO to The Bride® and said, "Look this one's not broken." She immediately responded with, "Ummm... Then what’s that?" :rolleyes: I hope I can return the extra one.

P.S. I already put a spot of grease on the TO bearing. I hope it's not too detrimental, because I'm not pulling it all apart at this point.

Woo Hoo!

Ok, I have no new photos depicting the progress made today. But I have to tell you, everything is hooked up, and the engine runs!

Now it's down to belated pre-season stuff. Rebuilding calipers, mounting new tires, And of course there’s getting the rear bumper back on.

The first track day should prove to be interesting. I wonder if I'll have a noticeable power increase.

Congrats! Must feel great!

I assume no leaks or odd noises?

How soon do you plan on tracking it after the rebuild?

Well.... I put the muffler and bumper on this afternoon (as well as rebuilt the rear calipers, brake shoes and rotors). When I fired the motor up I could hear an obvious and disconcerting clacking/ knocking noise. :( While doing some preliminary diagnosis, it started to pop from the exhaust. :confused:

I shut it down. Tomorrow I'm dropping the LH valve covers to see what's going on.

Hopefully nothing serious.....

I am guessing you have a valve out of adjustment....

Cheers

Found and fixed the problem. The #1 exhaust valve adjusting nut had come off. I removed the lower valve cover, and there it was. I must have had a lapse in diligence when adjusting the valves. :rolleyes: The tipping the car to the side trick worked great. I lost maybe a tablespoon of oil. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209227786.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209227833.jpg

Sweet ... that is great news!

Is that Brad Penn oil?

I spoke too soon. Clatter is gone. Still cursed with the miss. And I have no clue why it's occuring. Think I'll start a new thread regarding the miss. Yes, it is. 20-50w.

Craps!

Please keep us posted. Maybe you could include a link to your new thread so that we all may follow that one too.

Here ya' go....

Your link didn't work for me..
I have enjoyed reading this thread and I am glad the noise problem was easily solved.
PM sent.

Here it is:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/406059-help-88-miss-idle.html

I'll save y'all from going to the other thread. Issue turned out to be the new Clewette wires.

Well done. Glad to hear it was the wires. Nice to have that old set sitting around to strap on!

GREAT POST, Thanks for sharing this with everyone. All said and done, what was the total cost for everything done, tranny and engine? I have 2 broken head studs and was quoted around 6k to fix. You made this look and sound a lot easier than it probably was, and now I am tempted to try it myself.

Top-end: $2,461 Clutch: $1,549 Amounts are broken out on page 7 of the thread.

The car has been driven on the street about 60 miles, and been to three track days. Oil consumption is way down. The car runs strong, and without all the smoke. It will be time for an oil change and to re-torque the heads after running Lowes Speeway this weekemd.

Robert, Was great to see you at the track Friday. The car did run and sound great. Look forward to crossing paths in the future.

Rob:

Great DIY job and thank you for documenting everything!

I have an 87 Carrera with 170,000 miles on the original motor. I get a puff of smoke on start up if the car sits for several days. It consumes 1 qt every 700-1,000 miles or so and my valves are a little "clackity" despite (or because of) my amatuer adjustments. Basically, the motor seems to run very strong and it has been dead reliable for me.

My plan/hope is that I will not have to refresh the top end or anything else major for another 80,000 miles or so (my goal is to reach 250,000 miles on the original motor).

You mention that your oil consumption is way down, your car runs strong, and the smoke has abated. Besides the oil consumption and smoke, how much "better" does the motor seem to run? I realize it is difficult to quantify, but do you clearly notice more power? Do you notice less valve train noise? Is the motor smoother running?

I hope you can understand my curiosity. I appreciate any feedback you can give.

GREAT job!

Mike

It runs a bit better, and I think it has more power, but nothing really measurable by the butt-o-meter. It's about the same. Yes; however, that has more to do with the new plugs, new sensors, new ignition wires, ansd new clutch.

Bottom line is that your oil consumption is not an issue. Leave it alone until you need a full rebuild. :)