73 911T clutch problem

BBShriver · 03-09-2009, 03:54 AM

Got my 73 911T out on Saturday for the first time this year (been way too long, but don't like taking it out with salt on the roads). Was acting pretty normal, but somewhere along the way the clutch stopped disengaging *sometimes* if I'd leave it in gear and put the clutch in and hit the breaks it would pop free, or if I had the clutch in and brakes on and started it in first it would pop free and work for a few minutes then quit disengaging again.
Since it works fine sometimes and not others it seems like this is a problem with the clutch itself and not just adjustment. Anyone else had this problem?

bkreigsr · 03-09-2009, 05:39 AM

one of the things you can check real quick is the condition of the clutch cable and it's anchor point on the trans body and pivot point at the clutch lever itself. It could be the cable has frayed and there is a lot of slop in the line, or, if you still have the plastic cable stop on the adjuster, it could be on the way out as well. other will chime in about what could be going on inside the bellhousing as far as rust on the surface that the throw-out bearing rides on, especially after sitting in a damp where-ever for a long period.

If you have not replaced the cable yet, or at least done a pedal-to-lever inspection, it should be part of a regular service routine, YMMV.

good luck.

Bill K

BBShriver · 03-09-2009, 06:14 AM

Thanks, sounds like a good and relatively inexpensive place to start. Hopefully I'll get a chance to look into that soon and see if there's anything obvious. Concerned it's something a bit more involved though, due to the intermittent nature of the problem, but one can hope!
Rust issue is possible, however it would seem like that would get better as I drove more, whereas my problem got worse as I drove more..
If it is an "inside the bellhousing" issue, how hard is it to remove the transmission? Seems like something where it would be easiest to just drop the engine/transmission as a package.. except that I don't have a lift.

bkreigsr · 03-09-2009, 06:20 AM

yes - the easiest way to drop the trans is with the engine atttached.
you don't need a lift, just a floor jack or two and some reliable stands.

Bill K

Christien · Christien's Garage

As Bill said, regular jack and lift will work fine to drop the engine, but a large jack that will raise the car 2 feet or so will make the job much easier. It's very intimidating the first time you do it, and after that you'll wonder why you were so concerned about it. 60-90 min. to disconnect all the wires and hoses, CV joints, 20 min. to get the engine/trans out.

moneymanager · 03-09-2009, 06:55 AM

Search here for dozens of posts on dropping engines, dropping engines plus transmissions, etc. You will get a lot of different opinions. I just went thru this as I prepared to change my shift fork (inside the bell housing.)

BBShriver · 03-20-2009, 10:54 AM

Ordered all the clutch-cable related parts I could find from Pelican.. looks like they were delivered today so hopefully I'll get that done this weekend and see if it solves the problem. That would be a relief! Otherwise I've got a good excuse to remove the engine, however then I'd want to do a rebuild and so on and so forth.

BBShriver · 03-21-2009, 02:22 PM

Well I replaced the cable, and it seems to be "better", upshifting 1-4 seems to be fine, but it doesn't like 5th, or downshifting now. I'm thinking it may be a cable adjustment issue now, but can't find any information on how to do this properly. Tech articles I'm finding are for different years with different arrangements than the 73.5, anybody have suggestion for this model? I have the cable going through a block with double nuts, don't see any other way to adjust it.

bkreigsr · 03-21-2009, 07:13 PM

tighten the cable until there is about a half, to one-quarter inch worth of deflection in the cable, between the stop and the clutch arm, when you press down on it.
your problem now sounds more like a coupler adjustment when you say you can get some gears but not others.

Bill K

BBShriver · 03-22-2009, 11:24 AM

I should have been more specific.. it seems like the clutrh releases enough to swap gears while upshifting. When downshifting if I hold in the brake and clutch while it's in gear it will pop free and be fine, but if I don't brake the clutch doesn't relsease. But upshifting usually seems like it works better, which could be due to a variety of factors, engine speed being closer to what's needed, vehicle dynamics, etc. hard to tell.

BBShriver · 03-22-2009, 12:38 PM

Well I tightened up the cable a bit, and the clutch release is now farther up in the pedal travel.. too high I think. But still I'm not getting into gear unless I force the clutch free by holding in the brakes and clutch while in gear. So apparently something else is up.. looks like I'll be doing an engine drop as soon as I can afford parts and equipment to do so.

moneymanager · 03-22-2009, 01:28 PM

Have you looked at the clutch pin in the pedal cluster yet? They sheer from time to time. The clutch will adjust, be good sometimes for months, then the arm will slip on the rod it rides on and you will have trouble with reverse and fifth, then you adjust, it may work for a time, etc. I just pulled my motor and separated it from the tranny looking for a broken or failing fork. It was the pin in the cluster. Don't ever pull an engine when you face clutch engagement issues without first checking the cluster. Pulling it out takes an hour and will cost you a dollar to two for a new pin if that should be your problem.

69911e · 03-22-2009, 06:05 PM

Best way to check the cable/ pedal pin is to have 2 people. You watch while you ask someone else to move the pedal.

BBShriver · 03-22-2009, 06:07 PM

Thanks for that suggestion, I already bought the new pin, but haven't dissassembled anything yet. Doesn't sound like too bad a job though, maybe i'll give that a try. Biggest problem with the engine drop is the "while i've got it out..." expenses.