If one wanted to know about each cylinder, one would need to have a sender installed in each cylinder whether we are talking CHT or EGT. Mark's gauge is great as a replacement for guys who want a bit more info and don't have a use for a clock. It is what it is. It seems that many here are asking for much more instrumentation. Thousands of stock Porsches on the road do just fine with simply an oil temp gauge and an indicator light for the alternator. Mark's fine gauge is a step up from stock, but don't expect it to be a magic super computer. I guess everyone can have different desires for how much detail they want to know about what their engine is doing. I think Mark's solution is a pretty neat minor upgrade.

This may just be extraneous information, but EGT gauges are also known as pyrometers.

cashflyer, that is so correct! Almost every turbo equipped engine that I have had, either gasoline or diesel, has had a pyrometer. I have seen some that were positioned before the turbo, and some just after the turbo. The sensor after the turbo is the safer of the two. This is because, if the sensor decides to crack or break, the ones installed before the turbo, can do a LOT of damage to the impellers, while the ones installed just after the turbo, generally will not do any type of damage to the very expensive turbo.
I must say that the gauges shown look GREAT!!

From a functionality standpoint, I would rather see the oil temp and oil pressure gauges in the clock location. Even with a stock wheel it's tough to quickly check temp and pressure, but the clock is always easy to read. I would then place a voltmeter and EGT gauge in place of the oil readings.

I wasn't implying that his gauges were anything less than excellent. I think they're awesome. I think on his original post he was looking for ideas and mine was merely a suggestion. I agree the CHT gauge would be good for guys who want just a touch more info without going over-board.

Marks914....how much to covert the temp gauge to numbers instead of those vague lines?

Netspeed, probably just asking a stupid question, but I will ask anyway. Do you just "want" to know the corresponding temps, to the hash marks? If so, you can look at the gauge face at an angle, towards the center of the gauge set, and just where it just starts to be hidden by the faceplate, it has the temp degrees sort of hiding there. If you already know about this, please excuse my question. Tony.

I like the clock also, (still works). It's actually a conversation piece in the car. That being said those are gorgeous gauges and would consider oil temp. volt etc. Nice work.

Well, how about this question Mark (is that a pun?)...

If I were to have you install the VM at the bottom of my tach, I would be one of those guys thinking, all my other gauges look like crap now! So what kind of ball park to reface the whole set, in addition to the VM add-on? One other thing I might want would be the oil temp numbers liek someone else suggested. I think that would be great depending on price. One final thing I would want, and this is just thinking outloud, but a second set of numbers (maybe in a high vis red) at the bottom of the speedo, basically so a person could use the bottom of the needle as a secondary speed indication when you get in the range where the steering wheel obscures the numbers... just a thought.

I have the same dilema Jack. I really like the old analogue clock, gives the right 'period' feel for the car. The only time I really 'need' the clock is for judging how much of my session is left at trackdays, which is exactly the same time I'd like cool air blowing from a vent where the clock is now. Btw did you buy the Smart (?) clock vent kit or do something custom yourself ?

I usually charge $75 to put a new face on a tach or a speedo. I would charge the same for any gauge. That includes refinishing the trim rings, repainting the needle and replacing the lens if needed. This is using my vinly overlay. (seen on the tach above). The combo gauges, I do not have plates to do the front faces yet, but I can make them if the demand is high enough. I can do pretty much anything with the vinyl face, its the best option for price and customization, its what I have been running in my car for a couple of years now.

I can do a printed face in a single color. I paint the face and then print it (like on the quad gauges and CHT front face) for an additional $85.

To add virtually any VDO gauge to a standard tach is $150, that includes all of the above and the addition of the gauge to the tach. I wil try to get one together this week with a volt gauge installed to show you all.

Mark

to keep a clock AND the volt/cht gauge, why not use a 914 clock. it's the 2-1/8 size and could fit somewhere else on the dash panel. and would look 'right'. just a thought.

Ok, I just needed a moment to wipe up........


Love it, I've been debating about going with a Mark Big gauge, but it seemed more appropriate for 914's...... now is see this......


love it......

Sounds to me like there will be a glut of clocks on the market soon. ;)

I don't want to dilute Mark's thread, here, but I got the Ford truck vent that Wavey discovered in this thread.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1187466668.jpg

I think it could be combined with the Smart Racing kit, or you could fabricate something similar to the Smart Racing kit (like Ove did in that thread). I was planning on feeding it with a marine fan and keeping it separate from the rest of the heating/cooling system.

Nice work on the gauges. I really like the quad gauge and the VM option in the tach.

Those two mods appeal more to me as I like looking at my clock. I really like my dash for the layout and design and the quad gauge doesn't mess with that like removing the clock would - it just boils down to individual taste.

Really nice looking work you've done Mark.

If you haven't gone to the link in Marks posts; the site shows a lot of options.

Want to keep you stock clock? Move it.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1202087308.jpg

RarlyL8 has the right idea... the clock need not be "line-of-sight".....but any of the other gauges like a voltmeter should be....

Mark,

For the less-than-mechanically inclined on the board, would there be any additional connections necessary to support the voltmeter on a tach face? Or would the VM run off the same wires the tach uses?

In other words, could I unplug my tach, send it to you, have you put in a VM, and then simply plug the tach back in and presto! have a working VM?

I was able to adjust my valves, but I don't like the idea of cutting into wires for some reason. A mental block on my part I suppose.

Also, what is the turn-around time? A week? A month?

Thanks.

PV

Like what has been said ; to be useful a EGT gage is the only thing that will re act fast enough to give any useful info.
A Eng. can climb a 1000 deg and back to "normal " ( all in a few sec ) W.O. hardly effecting CHT.
To be totally useful it would have to monitor all 6 cyl rather then group them into a whole .

I'm interested. Would be even better if you could switch out the silver center dot with a bright LED red light for oil pressure loss (a lot of people use the abandoned clock opening for a big red oil light).

I've not been able to find any 90 degree sweep VDO EGT gauges - only 270 sweep.
Like this: http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/vdoegt.php

Or for something completely different...
http://aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/aerospace_logic.php
Monitors all 6 cylinders.
Selector allows you to monitor any specific cylinder.
Or sequential step through each cylinder with 5 second delay
Or auto select. Selects the hottest cylinder, updated every 1 second.

I can wire it that way. Turn around is usuall 2 weeks, depending on how busy I am.

Mark


CHRISP:
I can do that too

If anyone is interested, please email me for your quote:
I need to know the following:
Name,
zip code
as detailed of a description as possible on what you want
I do need a core for whatever project it is, I have been running low on cores for a while

email:
bigmarkdesign@aol.com

Outstanding! I'd be interested in a combo gauge to replace my current homemade setup.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093786420.jpg

Kevin,
if you send me those gauges with your a core fuel gauge, I can save you $110,
so it would be $140

Mark

Mark,

That would be great to see a substantial savings. But i'm not so fond of the really slow operation of the voltmeter. Is there another voltmeter you use that has more sensitive reading abilities?

You'll also see the apparent calibration of my CHT is off. That picture is taken on a stone cold engine. I believe it zeros at 100 when the car is started and begins to warm up. Anything to be concerned about? Only reason I ask is because the first gauge I got was wired (internally) backwards and I had to exchange it for a replacement.

Can you also update (with new internals) a 3.2 tach? Just wondering since it appears a bit more elaborate wiring-wise than the older tachs.

Thanks,
Kevin

[QUOTE=marks914;3744707]

I then install a VDO voltmeter, which can connect to the clock's original wiring [QUOTE]

if i want to keep my clock and add a voltmeter can i just tap into the power source and have a reliable meter or should i set up the correct wiring kit too?

Don't forget...the clock is "always on".....do you want a voltmeter that's "always on" ( like when the car is PARKED and OFF ?)...or do you want a voltmeter to come on with SWITCHED power ? That should answer the question if you simply use the clocks wiring "as-is".

This may sound silly, but I live in the foothills of the Rockies @ 4,000 feet & often drive from the prairies (lower) into the Mountains (I imagine up to 7-8,000 ft.)
An Altimeter would be fun.

wil

thanks. i didnt think about the always on feature. no i dont want that.
yes i would like to go with switched power.

that is the one guage i really miss about my 914. really like the idea of keeping track how the charging system is going. and how to spot a problem before something more stops me out on the road with a dead car.

Good point about using the clock wiring. It will have to be connected to a switched source. I guess installation time just went up 30 seconds.
You could just make a jumper with 2 females and a male spade and not have to cut any wires, that is how I make the harness for my quad gauges. I guess I could make one for the gauge and have it available for an additional cost.
But if you can't make your own jumper, you don't have any business in the IP anyway.

Mark

Kevin
If you find a voltmeter ypou like bettter. let me know, I can see if it will work. the VDO gauge are dampened, but mostly when you turn the car off. A voltmeter will jump from 8 to 16 volts in about 1 second, so I don't really think having anything more sentistve is worth the effort.

The CHT is working properly. I have heard of some gauges being mis wired at the factory, definately not madein the USA.

My tachs with the modern guts work on any 4, 6, 8 or rotary engine with a single coil or a tach output on an ignition box such as MSD or Mallory. The wiring for the tach should be pretty basic for any car, power, ground and signal.

Mark

Mark,

Lots of quickies:

Can we do a 79SC Tach + Volto still for $150? - just got a Tach, it looks like it needs some love (and a Volto)
If so, what would be the leadtime?


What other options would you suggest, if I'm not going with the Volto - it'd be strictly for the 'cool factor'?

Let me know,

Jeff

It looks like the volt tachs will be $225. I have to install new guts to fit the voltmeter and I have to run a LED behindthe face to relocate the high beam, like the above pic.

I can do a re furbishment for $75 which includes a new face of your choice, refinished trim rings, painted inside of can and a new lwns if needed

Mark

I would buy an AF gauge or combination AF and dc volts to replace the clock.... I don't really need the clock anymore..it does work perfectly still after almost 20 years. Can you make an AF gauge with a large sweep for me? I would supply the wide band signal per posting by Sal Carceller... what dc signal do you need for a wide sweep gauge that I guess would be labeled from say 9AF to 18AF or something like that...whatever people think is resonable.
I figure if the AF is good and the oil temp is staying within reason the engine is not overheating. Of course there could be a cylinder that is running lean...

Marks914 mentions a A/F mixture gauge... is there a vdo model of the right size for this already?

This may be a silly question, but can you add the metal trim knobs to SC gages as part of the refurbishment? I like the look of the early gages better...

Hcoles-
Find a A/F meter you like, let me know what it is and I will see what I can do. Did you just want a A/F meter in there? I am working up a deal with Norsdog-Viking right now for a 90 degree sweep A/F meter, then I could also fit a voltmeter in there. I am also working out a deal with them for some 10,000 RPM tach guts.

V8 ranch- I can swap ot the needles, but I need a set of gauges to take them from. I can usually get junk cores for about $20 each

Mark

I have to admit that I really LIKE my clock (yea I know I am strange.) Marks914, can you add the voltmeter to the gas - oil level gauge to make it a three way gauge? I upgraded my temp / pressure gauge to have numbers for the temp a long time ago. Is there room for a voltmeter gauge to be added into the temp / pressure gauge?

From the photos, all of your tachs seem to be 10,000 RPM with no redline marked out. If I had you add a volt meter to the tach can you reproduce a factory look tach?

This is something I will be doing. I just want to keep the clock and get a volt meter that fits on the dash. The question is which instrument should I send to you :)

From the photos, all of your tachs seem to be 10,000 RPM with no redline marked out. If I had you add a volt meter to the tach can you reproduce a factory look tach?

This is something I will be doing. I just want to keep the clock and get a volt meter that fits on the dash. The question is which instrument should I send to you :)[/QUOTE]


I don't know what you mean by they look like 10K tachs, they only go to 8k and they have a variety of redlines available.

I would do the tach with the voltmeter. The triple gauge might be possible, there is some R&D to be done there. There are some 904 triple gauge out there to replace the oil press/temp gauge.

I am working on a volt tach that pretty much looks like the boost gauge but with a voltmeter instead. I should have one ready next week.

Here are some 8K tachs that have been converted to modern guts, mostly for V8 use.

http://inlinethumb64.webshots.com/22...500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/24...500x500Q85.jpg

Mark - sent you an email about gauge mods.
Jim