How about volts and exhaust temp since that's an instant indicator of a lean condition?

Here is the volt tach. Usually there is a zero as well, this customer asked to have it deleted.
They are $235 with your core

Mark

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203595363.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203595379.jpg

unless you have extra extra oil cooling a CHT is a 5-10min heads up on oil overheating. I use it often in the Rockys' or even coming into LA from the N on I-5 during summer heat. My usual routine is to just maintain speed in 4th gear instead of 5th when CHT starts to rise. It'll also clear up any confusion when running in 110F deserts between inadequate or ok oil cooling.


CHT is also a great indicator during cold winter warm ups.


EGT is a great tuning aid for carbs if it's a digital read. It'll also show the difference between a miss caused by a fully clogged jet w/its dead cylinder and a partially clogged jet running 1,500F+ lean.



IMO the volt meter and CHT is a nice set of tools and the EGT is unnecessary with fuel injection.


...... different strokes for different folks

Who is going to mount an ignition oscilloscope in the dash??

I can't remember seeing...
was there a combination volts and mini-clock that could be put in place of the "big" clock?
this would add the volts function and still keep the clock function... the current clock is bigger than it needs to be

here is approximately what I was thinking re. volts and clock combination

probably any relationship would work... flip top to bottom or go side by side

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203698837.jpg

Interesting,
Maybe this could work. VDO has some pretty small clock packages

Mark

Great idea hcoles, I like that better than the volts in tach, Let us know Mark. Very cool.

I hope this is not too much brainstorming, but is there a vdo clock (analog) that is small enough to be inserted in the tach instead of the VM. I am thinking about symmetry of the dash, albeit maybe too much... I like the early silver center caps, and so I would rather have all 5 gages with the silver cap in the center, meaning, you would have the have the stock clock replaced with (probably) the dual sweep gage. I guess the other alternatives would be move the clock to the center console, which I am leaning toward at the moment, or nixing the stock clock and inserting an amber LED clock in the bottom or side of the tach (depending on the number orientation you use on it). The more I am thinking about it as I write this, I kind of like the idea of an amber LED clock in there. It would still be a vintage feel I think, being that my stereo has an amber digital display. The amber LED clock would probably be a lot cheaper as well, I would think anyway. What do you think Mark?

The only problem I see with the amber LED as I think further might be the ability to see it in certain daylight conditions... may not be a problem for those with coupes, but I have a cab.

Mark, any links to vdo smallish clocks that might work? I googled a bit yesterday and didn't come up with much. I think all I need on the small clock is a black center/adjust rod and orange "arms". For the volts... black center and orange arm and white letters...

My tac and speedo are the type of black center with the orange arm line that goes all the way across the center of the black center and then stops... no overhang.

The only thing I don't like about putting the volts in the tac is I sort of like the idea of keeping the tac unfettered and "pure" - that's just me... other than that I think great ideas and workmanship

I found this vdo clock.

It says 52mm OD.. I would guess the pointers would be less.

Maybe it is the same as the "full" size clock I have. It doesn't have to be VDO if the characters are printed on the front face and the "workings" are in the back. Just the color of the pointers need to be close to the tach and other gauges... then all we need to come up with is the volt meter approach.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203710291.jpg

What about something like this (to illustrate my idea earlier)...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1203713078.jpg

I like that... can almost use as a lap timer.... and saves the clock function.
Another idea to add..... bright yellow row of led's as a shift light...
Under normal driving, usually not working... works when on the track... adjustable depending on what engine you have and how hard you want to flog it that day.

How about a display, like the last one above, only you could hook any number of sensors to, (user selectable). If its just a numerical display, you could display anything that you could get a sensor for!

Think 5 channel input
Ch1 = oil temp
Ch2 = oil pressure
Ch3 = voltage
Ch4 = CHT
Ch5 = speedometer

Via a push button switch, you could loop though and view any one channel at a time.

CHT guages are popular on VW race cars because if you're really pushing the car, and there's a problem, you can do some damage before the oil gets hot. And you need one on each bank to catch the possible isolated problem with a single cylinder. Following that logic, I think a dual CHT guage with L/R bank monitoring would be helpful for guys who do a lot of races/DEs. Also, I think the hot side should be on the top on both guages.

FWIW: My clock works, and I like it.

I know... I'm the oddball.

--Bob

Good stuff. Subscribing.

I just officially added this product, the details are on my updated website:

http://members.aol.com/bigmarkdesign/products

Thanks for all the input.

Mark

So, how much for the set up I have a nice working clock in my radio anyways

I would be interested in having a shift light integrated into the tach - is this something that is possible to do?

Spooledeuro:
all the pricing is on my website:
http://members.aol.com/bigmarkdesign/products

Kroggers:
contact me through my website. Let me know if there is a shift light that you like and I will see if it will fit

Mark

I was thinking the same thing, some electronics would be needed I guess.

The buzzer on my RX-7 made an outstanding shift alert - much better than a light, IMO.

Here is another one, the A/F volt gauge that replaces the clock.

Its also $195 with your core. It includes the brain box for the A/F gauge, you need a O2 sensor though

It will be on our website this weekend

Mark
http://inlinethumb27.webshots.com/34...600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/31...600x600Q85.jpg

is that for a wide band o2?

btw- very cool setup - two needed readings

The A/F gauge says ot reads 0-1 volt from most o2 sensors, or the one listed here:
http://www.nordskogperformance.net/products/sending/page2.htm

Could you make one that is AF/Fuel/Temp/Pressure in green for the early SWB cars?

that is a really nice looking gauge.

but is there any way to make it more accurate?

re the voltmeter guage: i put in a sunpro analog voltmeter, but you can't really tell the precise reading because of the sparse markings. i eventually went digital. for example if you want to know if you're at 12.5 volts, it is going to be very hard to tell with this type of gauge.

re the afr guage: my wideband o2 gauge has an analog face but uses the almost the whole face for the markings so you can pretty much tell the difference between 13.1 or 13.5 afr (very useful for tuning or adjusting the mixture). this one only looks like you could tell if you were really off. plus, is it made to hook up (or convert) a wideband signal at all?

i guess some reading is better than none at all and it does look very oem. if one just wanted a very general idea and not real specific info, then these guages do look like one of the best choices to match the oem gauges.

re. knowing the dc volt level - I don't see why one needs to know this to a high accuracy. If you can see that the volts are e.g. 14 or where ever your regulation puts you, isn't that good enough? If you are driving and the volts drops to 12 or below... then you may want to check the alt. belt.

I do follow your comments on having a wide band afr reading with a large swing analog gauge or digital.... but all of that is more expensive compared to the presented simple design.

Any chance for a digital volt meter? The ones with a needle just are not as sensative for me. Worked with digital VOM's too long I guess!

I think you guys are missing the point. These are not meant to be aircraft gauges. These are meant to do a good job and fit in well. Digital would be pointless in these because you might as well just buy some digital ones. Accuracy seems to be fine, you need 12V with the car off and 14V with it running, that will be easy to tell. I don't even run a volt gauge. Also you need 14.7 A/F and the gauge tells you that.