pickle fork damaged my brand new ball joint boots.

vash · vash's Garage

i am bummed. absolutely bummed.

you know when you dont get the ball joint shaft stuffed into the bottom of the strut, and you need to use the pickle fork to remove it again? i blew it. i tore a small hole into the brand new joint boot. i dont know what bothers me more, having to take it all apart (car is on the ground, ride height is perfect) or .....no that bothers me most. taking it all apart sucks.

do you think you can vulcanize a inner tube patch onto the boot? i mostly drive to and fro the track, so i dont think it will be subjected to much road grime maybe even polyurathane sealant? at this point it is better to try to patch it, if it doesnt work, apart it comes.

Danny_Ocean · 08:22 PM

Sorry, this isn't probably much help now...You would typically use a pickle fork when removing a bad balljoint (one you won't be re-using). There are variants of ball joint "pullers" which will leave the boot intact.

If you do a search, there was a recent discussion about someone finding (generic) replacement boots.

vash · vash's Garage

hey, how does that tool work? i can find it! i dont mind changing the boot if i can just pop it off the strut, change to boot, and put it back together.

i read that boot replacement thread 3 times

vash · vash's Garage

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6556

Danny_Ocean · 02-03-2008, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vash

hey, how does that tool work? i can find it! i dont mind changing the boot if i can just pop it off the strut, change to boot, and put it back together.

i read that boot replacement thread 3 times

Those tools are all over E-Bay. There is another version (which looks like a hub puller) that you can get @ Harbor Freight or National Tool (if you're a cheap-azz like me).

Danny_Ocean · 02-03-2008, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vash

http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6556

Ugh! Don't spend $60 on it, unless you do front end rebuilds for a living. I think I paid $12 on E-Bay. If it breaks, I'll toss it and get another (and buy beer with the change).

john walker's workshop · 02-03-2008, 08:46 PM

pickle forks are good for breaking loose tapered shaft joints like tierod ends and chevy ball joints, but really not for straight shaft items like 911 ball joints.

vash · vash's Garage

here is where i insert my favorite nicolas cage movie quote:

"i know that now!"

bonehead move for sure.

john walker's workshop · 02-04-2008, 06:13 AM

they are a nice compliment to stone knives and bearskins. they invariably kill the boot.

3.2 CAB · 02-04-2008, 07:09 AM

The boot will really need to be replaced. They are available, in the normal "basic black" or you can also get colored PU boots. Hopefully you will be able to get the type you want.
The use of a pickle fork on most anything, is NOT an appropriate way to disassemble any joint that you are thinking of ever using again.
The tool that Danny Ocean is showing is a very useful tool. I have one similar to the one he is showing, mine is a Blackhawk Tool Co. model. I used this tool to remove EVERY front end and steering joint on my BMW 750iL. If I was wanting to re-use some of the parts separated, I could have, as there was NO damage to any boot, tapered joint, ball joint, etc. I don't actually own a pickle fork, and have not for over 20yrs, because of the damage that can be done to parts that can't be bought again. I have a large assortment of pullers, splitters, and tie-rod end lifters, that I use on all of my vintage Dodge Trucks, and the early MOPAR's. Good luck!! Tony.

70SATMan · 02-04-2008, 07:54 AM

I doubt the new boots are rubber of the type that you could patch. If it is rubber then I think patching it that way would be a viable alternative. Then, keep an eye on it over time.

jhelgesen · 02-04-2008, 08:36 AM

I got replacement boots from Summit racing, urethane material I think.

Superman · 02-04-2008, 09:27 AM

Vash, you should perhaps consider attempting to patch them. Rubber and glue, I suppose. Worst case scenario, the patch does not work and what happens is some dirt eventually finds its way in there and, over time, wears the joint more quickly. About the time that process has run its course, you'll be changing to some fancy type of sway bar or torsion bar or coil spring or steering rack or a-arb bushing or........

And it will be apart for that.

KTL · 02-04-2008, 12:52 PM

Put up a wanted-to-buy used ball joint on the classified. Specify that the boot MUST be in good condition. Shouldn't cost you much since a used ball joint isn't worth squat. That's how I came to have two spare joint boots that I cannot give you (because I need them for my spares). I've "repaired" accordian/flexible parking brake cable boot with blue RTV before. You could give that a try. The RTV sucks for gasketing, so might as well do something good with it.

I agree the above pictured press tool is a really handy tool that doesn't tear boots. But I would not skimp on the tool by buying a cheap one. When you're pressing out the part, there's a lot of energy stored in the tool and many times it goes "BAM!!!" when the part finally comes loose. You don't want the tool coming apart instead of the part itself.

vash · vash's Garage

all great advice. bottom line, i should have performed a search here with the braintrust before diving in. my greatest skill is "diving in" with careless abandon. you guys are great, and so are my bay area friends. everyone offered to come over and redo my frontend. love them guys.

anyways, i decided to spend my pcar money more wisely. since i have to do the alignment/CB thing, i am going to pony up for a new ball joint. the castle nut is days old, so i expect little resistance. i am going to remove it with the A-arm on the car. i expect the same with the wedge pin. no crust. KTL, if you need a brandnew balljoint with "snakebite" holes in it, lemme know. i will drop it in the mail for you. with your boots, you can build a new one.

superman, lemme know if you need me to pick you up at the airport to buy that cupertino SC.

Won · 02-04-2008, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danny_Ocean

How does this tool work in 911 application? It seems the end of ball joint shaft should be exposed in order for this one to work like the tie rod/strut connection.

Cliff, how bad is the boot? I probably could have patched mine too before I cut it apart to pull it off with the ball joint still attached to the strut

I started a thread about Energy Suspension's generic PU boots. Unfortunately I've been waiting for parts from Pelican for the last 3 weeks (looooong story

) so still no update on "road test". If anyone has any info on OEM replacement boots with spring clips on open ends that fits our ball joints, please feel free to share. I've found some for Jaguars (also 3.2Cab mentioned replacements for BMW I think) but can't find out what size they are.

gunlover05 · 02-05-2008, 03:54 AM

as you've discovered, only use a picklefork to remove a ball joint you wish to discard....

i removed my ball joints with heat, a jack placed under the strut arm, and a BFH. one was easy, one was pretty stuck...heat is you friend.

I recently re-removed my ball joints with same process and didn't hurt my boot or joint.

brace strut arm right next to joint with jack, turn nut over and just below flush with top of bolt, add heat to strut arm around joint, whack with BFH...keep adding heat and whacking a bit harder, while being semi-careful.

vash · vash's Garage

well, i took it all off again. everything is on the car (a-arm, swaybar, etc). i got the wedge pin out without much fanfare. i destroyed the castle nut again. got it off, punted it into the garbage can. ball joint is on my work bench as a "trophy" of sorts, to remind me not to be such a dumbarse.

now just waiting for parts to get here from pelican. i actually read wayne's instructions. he says to put the bj into the strut, install the wedge pin, AND THEN fuss with the ball joint and a-arm. i think this may be easier.