A couple of Brake Job questions

[squelch]

I am putting my brakes back together. Here's a couple of questions:

1. What color Lock-Tite should I use on the caliper mounting bolts and the bolts that mount the front disks to the hub? I will also be using a torque wrench.

2. Do I need to put any anti-squeal stuff on the pads? If so, what's best. I am using PBR Ultimate Ceramic pads.

3. I am doing my first DE in April. May do a few Autocrosses this summer, but not planning to get into racing. Should I remove the metal protective plates on the front disks for cooling, or leave them. This is mostly a weekend driver and is all original.

Thanks,
Chuck

[JeremyD]

Originally Posted by squelch

1. What color Lock-Tite should I use on the caliper mounting bolts and the bolts that mount the front disks to the hub? I will also be using a torque wrench.

Chuck

Just torque them to the correct specs...

Originally Posted by squelch

2. Do I need to put any anti-squeal stuff on the pads? If so, what's best. I am using PBR Ultimate Ceramic pads.
Chuck

Antisqueal is a stopgap - brake material has much more to do with sqeal or non squeal.

Originally Posted by squelch

3. I am doing my first DE in April. May do a few Autocrosses this summer, but not planning to get into racing. Should I remove the metal protective plates on the front disks for cooling, or leave them. This is mostly a weekend driver and is all original.
Chuck

I'd do your first DE and see how they do before pulling the plates and having to repack the bearings. Make sure you have a good fluid in for the DE - fresh. Either ATE Superblue or Motul RBF 600 <- my favorite

[squelch]

Thanks Jeremy.

Regarding question #3, the already have the hubs and protective plates off, I guess I should have asked "Should I reinstall the protective plates?"

thanks,
Chuck

[JeremyD]

I'd leave them off then = I'd also probably look at getting some 993 deflectors - they are cheap - and can make a difference - do a search -

[rusnak]

I'd say definitely do not use the goop stuff on the back of your brake pads. I tried that once, and never again. Huge mess and does not work.

I agree that the best is to use the stick on anti-squeal pads, especially on the rears which squeak more for some reason.

You might want to be sure to clean up and polish the pins and make sure that the pads can slide on them.

I also use the PB ceramic pads, and I like them for the price.

You mentioned that you are putting your brakes back together. If you took the pistons out, then you need to align them at 20 degrees. I made a template that you can copy if you want.

[911quest]

If your doing DE I would advise getting a second set of pads for the track and another set for the street if you use all the factory clips and springs you shouldn't have any problems with noise......now track pads are going to be noisy on the streets

[DRACO A5OG]

Re: #2

I used Copper Lock Tite antiseize on the back of the pads where the caliper contacts the pad and then some on the two holes where the retaining pins go into and slide in.

Using Local Supply Store glue/gel/spray will make it more difficult to remove on your next brake pad removal.