Oil line spanner size?

i have an oil leak from one of my oil lines at the coupling in the front of the rear wheel arch.

my problem is this. the nut on the coupling is so large than the only thing i have that will get on it is a large adjustable spanner. However as the adjustible has quite thick claws i cant squeeze it behind the other line.

Do i have to undo the front line first, tighten up the one behind and then reconect the front one (will i loose all my oil?) or do i buy the correct spanner and it will fit between the lines, if so whats the size of spanner? (30mm???)

any input you guys can give will save me hours and ££'s!! thanks again

------------------
mike 87 coupe'

You have to remove the outer line to get on the inner one, unfortunately. I had to cut both mine off (sectioned thru the collar with a cutting wheel and then split with a chisel). Oh well.

BTW, the spanner size is 32mm.

Nick.

------------------
_ _ __ _ _
Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe
nickshu@yahoo.com
PCA -- Rocky Mtn. Region

You have to remove the outer line to get on the inner one, unfortunately. I had to cut both mine off (sectioned thru the collar with a cutting wheel and then split with a chisel). Oh well.

BTW, the spanner size is 32mm.

Nick.

------------------
_ _ __ _ _
Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe
nickshu@yahoo.com
PCA -- Rocky Mtn. Region

You have to remove the outer line to get on the inner one, unfortunately. I had to cut both mine off (sectioned thru the collar with a cutting wheel and then split with a chisel). Oh well.

BTW, the spanner size is 32mm.

Nick.

------------------
_ _ __ _ _
Nick Shumaker
1982 911SC Coupe
nickshu@yahoo.com
PCA -- Rocky Mtn. Region

Did I make my point??

Sorry.

Nick.



[This message has been edited by Nickshu (edited 04-14-2001).]

Mike
I had the same problem with this joint leaking. I got round the problem using a 36mm ring spanner with a slot cut in the end, the width being just greater than the oil pipe diameter. You then get adequate clearance to tighten without removing the other line. I would advise caution as the thermstat housing is aluminium and the coupling is steel so corrosion/binding can be a problem. If the joint is old and has just started to leak I would be very suspicious as to why it has started to leak. Mine was leaking due to bad work by my ex mechanic.

Bruce 83 sc

Thanks for the advice but is it 36mm or 32mm??

------------------
mike 87 coupe'

36mm a/f fits my car which should be the same as your later carrera
Bruce

thanks bruce i will report back with results

------------------
mike 87 coupe'

I am removing the same oil lines for the pre-74 heat exchanger upgrade...

The Bently manual suggests using heat on the nuts before attempting to remove...

MJ

Just replaced both my oil lines, and used 2 adjustable wrenches. Be sure and put a wrench on both sides, as I really doubt the lines can take much torque. Definately err on the side of safety, as new lines are in the neighborhood of $400 each.

Mike...just been through this and it cost me two new lines from thermo to engine and tank plus another thermo as it sheared even after heat...if its only a minor leak I would live with it as these oil lines are murder. The ones to the tank and engine gave me major problems as well. I replaced those and the flexi ones at the cooler end. If access is limited then you could take off the outer sill covering and drop the oil pipes down from the wheel arch. Where is the Porsche? If it was Glasgow(ish) area I would lend a hand.

OUCH maybee will just leave it for now!

it is the oil line forward of what i guess is the thermostat. the warmer weather and subsequent higher running temps will explain why leak has only just become noticable.

thanks for the offer malcolm if i get stuck i will give you a shou. Car runs between edinburgh and glasgow everyday.



------------------
mike 87 coupe'

Although it may seem like more work, you may want to consider completely removing the oil lines and thermostat from the car. That way, you can get the proper angle and leverage and not place undue stress on either the lines or the thermostat housing. It's also a safer way to heat things up to encourage loosening. It's only held in place by the two hose ends next to the engine and some hose clamps along the side (leave the cooler connected). After inspecting/cleaning all the pieces, you can reassemble on the car.

Sherwood Lee
http://members.rennlist.org/911pcars