Distributor Green wire loose and frayed

[crzship]

I have an 83' 911 SC. It just started to run rough and would stall out when stopped. It seemed like some sort of electrical short the way it would run fine then all of a sudden roughly idle and eventually stall. I popped the hood and looked at the distributor and it seems the green wire is frayed where it attaches to the black rubber on the side of the distributor below the cap. I started the engine and repositioned the wire and it ran fine. If I move the wire sit toward me it cuts the engine. Is there a procedure to secure the green wire? There is very tight clearance to the fan shroud. Does the distributor have to be removed? It was just in for a major tune up about 2k ago and can't believe this would not have been detected. Thanks in advance for the assistance.

[ClickClickBoom]

Secure it by removing it in its entirety. Replace with a nice primary wire from the local auto supply. Or leave it in and make sure that the AAA towing is up to date.

[timmy2]

assuming you have the continuous green wire:
Buy a new style $70 green wire from pelican and a $10 Timer jr. Connector with boot kit to splice it into the good part of your green wire. Done.


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[Bob Kontak]

Have to remove the distributor. Way easier than you may think.

Do what Timmy says and get a new green wire. On the end of the green wire there will be the male part of the Timer Jr connector he is talking about. I think the female coupler is the one you need.

Alternatively you could take the new wire to a bone yard and find the female connector in a VW/Audi engine bay and splice that onto the CD box end of the wire.

[Bob Kontak]

Originally Posted by ClickClickBoom

Replace with a nice primary wire from the local auto supply.

Sounds like the fray is at the distributor connector. This may be a difficult connection to splice unless you renew the internal pins and if you do that you could just use the original shielded wire cut back an inch or two.

Plus you would need the pin removal tool and the correct pins (probably some spares). Do-able but a hassle.

Wires may just be touching at the distrib. A little clean up and sealing could fix the problem.

When you say primary wire, does that just mean a wire? 14/16 gauge?

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by Bob Kontak

Sounds like the fray is at the distributor connector. This may be a difficult connection to splice unless you renew the internal pins and if you do that you could just use the original shielded wire cut back an inch or two.

Plus you would need the pin removal tool and the correct pins (probably some spares). Do-able but a hassle.

Wires may just be touching at the distrib. A little clean up and sealing could fix the problem.

When you say primary wire, does that just mean a wire? 14/16 gauge?

Yup,
I replaced mine in the '75 in its entirety, with an inexpensive replacement. This wire died early in my ownership, and after I replaced it, I had trouble free motoring ever after.

[acapella8]

Some good reading going back to 2006 and valuable EarlySMan wisdom.....

78SC ROW - Something broke, now rough idle, surging - (pictures included)

[timmy2]

The challenge with repairing the connector where it goes into the distributor is with the black part. they crimp a steel piece inside the black piece to hold the wires in place when they cast the hard black plastic portion onto the cable. It can be done, but it is difficult.

The connector pins that fit inside are available from mouser. The white plastic piece that goes into the distributor is susceptible to breaking when taking it apart.

I have the correct timer junior connector, terminal pins and rubber boot available, and I can give you instructions as to how to make the modification.
(If you need it, you haven't indicated if it is the continuous or connected style)

PM me if you want to buy a timer junior "kit" from me for $10 shipped in the US.
Or, you can but it from these guys plus shipping:
2-Pole Female AMP Jr Timer Kit

Either way, I can give you instruction as to how to make the change.

The "green wire" is available here:
Porsche 911 & Carrera Ignition - Page 9

The Bosch part number is 1234431290 f you want to search the web for it...

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by timmy2

The Bosch part number is 1234431290 f you want to search the web for it...

That's the one I ordered (for my dist 0 237 306 001)...



Now, is there anybody that explain to me, how I adapt the remaining coax-kabel to that needed connector?

maybe with pictures?

[tops911]

On my 1982 the green wire was a one piece from the distributor to the CDI box. I bought a 928 wire that is long enough to go straight from the distributor to the CDI box. I just crimped electrical connectors on the end of the coax cable to connect to the CDI box.

[Flojo]

Ah, good one if that works.

Partnumber please?

[tops911]

I got it here on Pelican, I'm not sure if this is the exact part # from Porsche, 928-602-907-00-M100
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=928-602-907-00-M100&catalog_description=&Distributor%2520Wire%2520%2528Green%2520Wire%2529% 252C%2520%2539%2532%2538%2520%2528%2531%2539%2537% 2538%252D%2538%2534%2529%2520

good luck

[timmy2]

Originally Posted by Flojo

That's the one I ordered (for my dist 0 237 306 001)...



Now, is there anybody that explain to me, how I adapt the remaining coax-kabel to that needed connector?

maybe with pictures?

Sorry, no pictures...

1. Buy the timer junior connector kit I posted a link to. Or from me.

2.Cut the existing coax cable so that the total length to the distributor will be the same with the new green wire segment connected. (you are replacing the last 6 inches)

3. Carefully remove about one inch of the green coax outer casing exposing the braided shield.

4. Bend the coax at the edge of the removed outer casing point, and carefully open the braid a little, and push/ feed the bend of the center green wire through it. (Fish it out of the braid)

5. Now you should twist the braided shield to look like a bare wire. The cable end should now look like it has 2 wires coming out of it.

6. Fit some small heat shrink over the shielded cable leaving about 1/8th" of exposed conductor at the very end. Remove about the same amount of insulation from the inner green wire you exposed.

7. Slide the new rubber boot over the cable past the wires. (Or do this first)

8. Crimp the terminals to the shield and green wire.

9. Use a meter to determine which wire is the green wire in the new cable at the male timer jr connector and then insert the terminals into the new female connector in the right spot. Slide on the rubber boot, connect the connectors and you are done.



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[Flojo]

OK, thanks.

I will go with the 928-one, as it is much longer and thus gives me more freedom as to choose, where/at what length I will cut the old cable.

[timmy2]

You will have to disassemble your wiring harness to properly install the 928 piece to make it look nice. As well, you will need to cut off the male end and attach the correct female terminals to inset in the 6pin CDI connector.
Usually it is only the last 3-4 inches of the green coax that is questionable.
But, it is your choice and $$$


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[crzship]

Thanks everyone for such quick and detailed responses. This is a great forum and especially for someone who is new to 911's You mention if I have a continues or connected part. It is an 83 SC U.S. model. How would one tell the difference between connected or continues? I haven't been able to determine the other mounting point. just the one on the side of distributor attached to the black box (where it is frayed). Is that the male or female connector? I am going to give this a shot but wanted to make sure I get the right parts. Timmy2 I will PM when I can get comfortable with moving forward and sourcing of parts.

[Bob Kontak]

You should be able to follow the green wire all the way to the Bosch CDI box on the driver's side inner fender. If it is original, there will be no connectors between the distributor and the CDI box. Just wire. The green wire will feed into a six pin connector at the CDI box.

Lean on timmy2's knowledge big time.

The black box you speak of is the base of the connector that enters the distributor, right?

[Bob Kontak]

Do you have a box that looks like one of these on the inner fender near the fuel filter? This is where the other end of the green wire plugs in.

[timmy2]

crzship,
OK, I laid out an '82 OEM "long" green wire harness I use for my harness patterns, so I could take a picture for you to understand where/what it is and where it goes.

It comes out of the factory harness where the coil wires and oil sender wires come out, and winds it's way to the distributor.
The green wire goes through the harness towards the 14 pin plug then turns and goes to the 6 pin CDI connector I have circled in red at the top left of the picture. (You can see it make the turn where I have removed the tape near the 14 pin connector)

Below the factory long wire I laid out an old green wire with the outer cover cut off and stripped, with the "kit" beside it as I described earlier in my instructions. (Note the shield wire was not braided so it just needs to be twisted.
You should cut your failing "long" green wire where the black tape is on the top wire of the OEM harness.

I have also posted a shot of just the 2 green wires I laid out, so you can get a better understanding.
Hope that helps....

[Flojo]

thanks dennis for the picture.
does pelican have the adapter/connector-set too? (cant find it)