Lowering a 1982 SC

[rbuswell]

Grady Clay and I are concerned that I shouldn’t lower my 1982 SC to Euro height without installing larger diameter torsion bars. The reasoning is that there is less room to travel to the stops and it will make for a jarring and uncomfortable drive. My car is entirely stock right now. Have any of you Pelicans lowered your SC to Euro height, without changing out torsion bars, without having this problem? Thanks for your input.

[kslizzy]

I've got a Carrera and lowered it a little beyond euro hgt. It was a stiff ride before and still is. I don't know if it got any stiffer though. It's supposed to be stiff.

[javadog]

That shouldn't be a problem at all. A ROW SC had the same torsion bars and shocks/struts.

What you don't want to do is lower the car so much that you have insufficient bump travel. Many people lower their cars well below Euro height and that can be a problem.

JR

[Greek55]

I lowered mine to the Euro height and have not had any problems. At the same time I lowered it, I balanced the car put on adjustable sway bars. A huge improvement in the way the car handles.

[tcar]

Do you have Boge shocks? Compress easier than, say, Bilstein, I think...

We do have a pothole or 2 here...

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by kslizzy

I've got a Carrera and lowered it a little beyond euro hgt. It was a stiff ride before and still is. I don't know if it got any stiffer though. It's supposed to be stiff.

Originally Posted by javadog

That shouldn't be a problem at all. A ROW SC had the same torsion bars and shocks/struts.

What you don't want to do is lower the car so much that you have insufficient bump travel. Many people lower their cars well below Euro height and that can be a problem.

JR

Originally Posted by Greek55

I lowered mine to the Euro height and have not had any problems. At the same time I lowered it, I balanced the car put on adjustable sway bars. A huge improvement in the way the car handles.

Originally Posted by tcar

Do you have Boge shocks? Compress easier than, say, Bilstein, I think...

We do have a pothole or 2 here...

My car has brand new Bilstein Sports.

Grady has a 1974 Targa (kind of a parts car) that was set quite a bit lower than Euro height by the PO and it hits the bump stops all the time. Can't say which shocks it's got. I'm not worried about how stiff it rides as much as it hitting the bump stops all the time. It may knock out a filling or two or even become dangerous.

[Jesset100]

2 words Grady Clay. Nuff said

[nut11]

Lowered mine below euro w/ new HDs keeping stock torsion bars and so far no problems. However, I believe the factory installed thicker torsion bars in 87. Boy, after the new HD install, she sprung right up thus necessitating the lowering. PITA to lower the rear.

87 blk coupe

[Richard C2S]

At first, I was going to post this as a preply to ttw18's thread relative to swb cars and then saw this thread which is pretty close to my situation.

I apologize if this is a "hi-jack", but I can't resist getting some advice from Grady and db at TRE, and others.

I replaced torsion bars (now 22/28), shocks (now Bilstein Sports) and lowered my '81 SC three years ago. Now its time for sway bars. I do some drivers ed events - no club racing. I like the car firm. I'd like to do it the "easy" (spelled: inexpensive) way.

I know that Carrera bars will fit. I've done the search on this site. Which should I be looking for? 22mm/20mm? Would it be better if they came off of a G50 Carrera? Any fitment problems to be anticipated? Any other suggestions?

Thanks, in advance, and I apologize to rbuswell for the intrusion.

[Laneco]

Originally Posted by Jesset100

2 words Grady Clay. Nuff said

#1

Grady has already evaluated all the info available and made the educated suggestion. Left to my own devices, I would have lowered it. But if Grady told me not to - then I would do as he suggested.

angela

[garmo]

To lower the car to euro specs - it is only 9 mm lower than US specs per Wayne's 101 Projects book. How much difference does 9 mm make in terms of better handling for a street/ax/sometimes DE car?

[garmo]

I should clarify that the 9mm is for the front and for the back the difference is about 21 mm. Doesn't seem like a lot, but I'm guessing it must make enough of a difference to the center of gravity that it is quite beneficial - yes?

[Scott R]

Lowered mine over the winter, little lower than euro, rides fine, I did add the bump steer kit our host sells and new turbo tie rods at the same time.

[porsche930dude]

If you dont plan on going over rail road crossings at tripple diget speeds i dont think it will be a problem

[Bill Douglas]

My '79SC is lower than Euro and works well.

[burgermeister]

1) remove spacer washer on top of strut if it's there
2) do you mean "euro height" as in shop manual spec euro height (probably OK) or the 25.5" fender height "euro height" (maybe not so OK - it's quite a bit lower)
3) I'd listen to somebody with Grady's experience over my inane ramblings (or most anyone elses)

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by Scott R

Lowered mine over the winter, little lower than euro, rides fine, I did add the bump steer kit our host sells and new turbo tie rods at the same time.

I've got the same parts to install, Scott. But new torsion bars are priced in the $400-$500 range currently so I'm wondering if I can forgo that expense for the time being and not have either an uncomfortable or dangerous car. I don't have any current plans to track the car other than DE. Grady wants to take me out and teach me to drive (wooo hooo!). It appears that I won't have either problem based on the posts so far.

Grady and I have our disagreements from time to time ... seldom but sometimes. He definitely wants to know about other Pelican's successes so don't assume he's unwilling to evaluate the evidence. Grady is one of the great Porsche minds but he tells me that he's always learning and wants to know the latest and best. He probably learns as much from Pelican as he teaches. That's why the Pelicans love to hear from him. He's always learning and adapting new stuff. I'm not sure if he's aware of this post but I'll plug him in and he can chime in on the other questions that have arisen.

[911pcars]

The general consensus is in line with Grady's recommendations. You can check the archives for confirmation. it goes something like this:

Upgrading the suspension should be performed as a coordinated effort. However, owners may want to perform this in stages as there may be substantial costs involved with all the pieces and labor. The upgrade list is in no particular order except for alignment and corner balancing adjustments, which may affect each other and are also affected by certain upgrades.

- lower ride height
- replace torsion bars
- replace shocks
- replace sway bars
- align
- corner balance

The first two items require resetting alignment, and any time ride height is changed, so may corner balance (e.g. a change from hydraulic to gas-hydraulic shocks may change ride height).

Sherwood

[Bill Douglas]

Don't be in too much of a hurry to do things as your alignment and corner balance will change over months as parts bed in.

[rbuswell]

Originally Posted by 911pcars

The general consensus is in line with Grady's recommendations. You can check the archives for confirmation. it goes something like this:

Upgrading the suspension should be performed as a coordinated effort. However, owners may want to perform this in stages as there may be substantial costs involved with all the pieces and labor. The upgrade list is in no particular order except for alignment and corner balancing adjustments, which may affect each other and are also affected by certain upgrades.

- lower ride height
- replace torsion bars
- replace shocks
- replace sway bars
- align
- corner balance

The first two items require resetting alignment, and any time ride height is changed, so may corner balance (e.g. a change from hydraulic to gas-hydraulic shocks may change ride height).

Sherwood

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Don't be in too much of a hurry to do things as your alignment and corner balance will change over months as parts bed in.

I'm still struggling with the fact that the ROW cars used the same parts but only lowered the height a bit. Actually, to be completely correct, Porsche raised the US cars for safety bumper matching regulations. The parts were always intended to be and were designed for a lower ride height, IINM.

In other words, I'm not really sure you can call this procedure an upgrade per se. Given how many other Pelicans seem to have had good success with this procedure without major modifications (except for the bump steer kit), I should be OK with this somewhat small amount of lowering (assuming realignment when it's done)?

BTW, the Boge shocks/struts I removed were the original equipment and were completely shot. That was definitely a safety problem but I'm not sure if replacing them was an upgrade, really. I went to Bilstein Sports all around to replace them. I kept the Boge front struts but put the Bilstein Boge-adapted shocks in them. They are all much firmer than the Boges but without other modifications aren't they OK for my suspension, especially lowered a little? I hate to say it but I'm getting confused a little.