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-   -   Anbody find the fix for the slow going windows? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/399444-anbody-find-fix-slow-going-windows.html)

Bill Douglas 04-08-2008 05:45 PM

On mine, an SC, I've got new window felts but it's still painfully slow and I can hear the motor labouring away to drag the window up or down. The window tilts going up or down, sort of like it is being pushed up at the front of the glass and pulled back down by the front of the glass.

Dave and EaselBoy when you say "center spring pivot was sitting in the bottom of the door instead of in postion in the middle " is this something adjustable, and will I spot it if I take the door interiour off?

Ah, the luxury of having windows that open and close. That would be nice.

dipso 04-08-2008 06:33 PM

I had the same problem with mine.
Started with replacing the switches. Then getting power directly to the window motor, from the battery with cables. Then removing the assembly inside the door and cleaning and lubing it. Then lubricating the window guides. Then taking apart the motors and cleaning the brushes and tightening the springs. Checking all grounds. Adjusted window frames to ease any binding.
I enjoy troubleshooting, obviously.
Turns out 2 new motors from our host solved the problem. Windows go up and down faster than I have ever seen.

DavErb 04-09-2008 01:36 AM

Bill
What you're describing is pretty much what my windows were doing. Ultimatly had to remove the regulator assembly and free up the center pivot point of the cross arm. While I was in there I also found that the center spring pivot (not the same as the center pivot point in preceding sentence) had fallen out and was in the bottom of the door.

Fixing the seized cross arm pivot was what cured my window problem When it was seized you could see the cross arm pieces bending as the motor laboured to raise and lower the window. With the cross arm pivot fixed both sides of the window went up simultaneously and smoothly. Once I had the cross arm on the bench I drowned the pivot in oil and kept working the joint by hand. As it started to free up I was dabbing up the 25 year accumulation of dirt, rust and ancient lubricant as it worked out of the joint. Eventually got the joint freed up with a good dose of clean lubicant worked into it and was able to reassemble the whole thing.

SCWDP911 04-09-2008 02:33 AM

I just wish I could roll them both up at the same time and they both got there at the same time - basically... If I roll both at same time, my passenger side goes WAY slow, but once the driver's side makes it to the top, the passenger side zooms on up... Is this just the way the Porsche electrical system is (too much load doing both at same time), or is there a fix?

Paulporsche 04-09-2008 07:17 AM

Ronin LB,

Where is the glass adjustment screw you mentioned?

RoninLB 04-09-2008 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paulporsche (Post 3876428)
Ronin LB,

Where is the glass adjustment screw you mentioned?



The bolt locks the frame in position based on how the glass rides up and down inside it. The hex head bolt should be the same as the other M8x20 bolts commonly used in there, i forgot. The bolt is about 1/3 from front edge of door at the top of the door. Maybe 1-2" from top edge. When you remove the glass frame you disconnect it. When you reinstall you may not have realigned it unless you know what's going on with the in/out leaning of the frame. Before finishing check how glass frame closes against body seal.

The glass should ride even in the frame. As the glass nears the top of coupe frames you may see a difference in gap. One of the regulator mounting bolts to the door at the rear end rides in a slot that adjusts up & down. When glass is near top of frame you move position of bolt in slot to adjust squareness of glass in frame.

i know nothing about targas

oregonmon 04-09-2008 10:41 AM

Well all this time I was sure it was the squeegee seal that was the cause of the problem, just removed the trim piece and seal and although it seemed to help a little it was still pretty slow. So it seems you guys are right about having to get into the door and start f"""" around.

DRACO A5OG 04-09-2008 12:05 PM

It's not dificult to get into the door, just allocate plenty of time, it is time consuming but rewarding. Warning do not pinch the pivot to get a tigher fit, it will snap in half. Ask me how I know. This part is not available by itself you have to buy the entire regulator. Also do not over torque the bolts.

Break a Leg ( not the pivot )

Bill Douglas 04-09-2008 05:38 PM

Thanks Dave. I'll give it a go.

tig 04-17-2011 09:25 AM

Subscribed. I've had the same problem for years and it's now at the point that I really need to fix it.

Anyone know of a good tutorial (with lots of photos!) for taking the door apart? I have manuals, but my graphical mind likes lots of pictures!

motogman 07-05-2011 04:58 PM

It is nice to know that this problem has been tackled by many others before I start into it as well.

x038F was looking for pictures and a tutorial... does anyone have a link for this issue?

DRACO A5OG 07-05-2011 05:08 PM

Well, this Targa raises and lowers properly on driver side but my passenger side is about 2-3 seconds slower.

I have determined the Quarter window rail is bent (from what I deduced from PO accident i.e. T-boned) compared to the driver side causing it to bind. I am dreading the job but I know it must be done.

Will post a thread of the fix if successful.

Jim


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