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Anbody find the fix for the slow going windows?
Did a quick search and didn't see much. I'm sure about every other person wants a fix for the power windows that get caught on the "squeegee seal" and causes them to go super slow or stop completely. I've seen other guys at autcrosses and such when trying to talk with them they just open their doors instead of that long wait to get the window down.
I'm surprised there isn't tons of info on this. |
I have the same car with the same problem. Subscribed.
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On my 83 (good solid car mechanicaly but had every electrical gremlin going) I first replaced the switchs since both kind of iffy and made a point of cleaning up the wire terminals as best I could. That at least cured the intermitant operation though they were still very slow.
Finally opened up the door,removed window frames and fished out the regulator and motor. Make a point to lube the door latch mechanism, especially the cable, while you're in there. With the cross arm regulator on the bench I found that 1)most importantly, the pivot point of the cross arm was almost seized. Removed the motor,cleaned off the pivot and just kept working the joint and spraying light oil on it to free it up. 2) on one door the center spring pivot was sitting in the bottom of the door instead of in postion in the middle of the spring so the spring was not helping the motor lift the window. I just put mine back into position to anchor the spring but if I had to do it over again I'd put one in of the improved spring anchors our host sells (Weltmeister Window Regulator Pivots there are 4 different ones so you'll need to figure that out first) 3) cleaned all the old 25year old semi solidified grease/gunk out of the channel piece that the windows lift rollers run in and hosed it down with some nice drying graphite type lube 4) mostly becuase I was in there I replaced all the window seals (our host has an excellent selection) including the completly crumbled inner felt seals (clean the pieces out of the door bottoms since they block the drains) and lighly lubed them with some gummipledge 5) reassembled spending a bunch of time making little adjustement to be sure the mechanism was aligned right. Took me several trys on the first door due to the learning curve but the second door went a lot quicker Result: both windows roll up and down as they ought to |
I found putting some graphite powder in the runners freed up the operation. They work just fine now.
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I had a similar issue and opened up door panel to find window glass was only being lifted by one side of the cross arm--once window was reseated correctly (both sides of cross arm lifting glass) it returned to working normally. Also lubed all tracks and parts while I was tinkering!
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If you are short of time and want a quick fix, silicone spray in the fuzzy strips (window tracks) will speed up most windows. No substitute for a through regulator overhaul that was outlined above.
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1206112225.jpg I was hoping it was a leftover form a previous repair ... |
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Lower the window all the way, then carefully lift the trim moulding up with a flat screwdriver, it pops right off. Slide the old one out, grease the new one with some Vaseline, slide it in. Dab the clips with some Vaseline, reinstall the moulding. Second: Open the panel and lube the components as suggested. :) |
To burgermeister, thats the piece alright. See my post in your other thread
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Thanks DavErb!
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On my 78 911SC coupe, the driver-side window was sticking in the rubber slotted runners in the window frame. Although some people say you can get this out without removing the window frame, I found it impossible, even with the window rolled all the way down. Even if I could have gotten it out, it would be extremely difficult to get the new one in, even lubing it up which you are not supposed to do, and I was afraid of scratching or breaking the window in the process. In the end, I took out the window frame like you are supposed to. Changing the runners this way was a piece of cake, just takes a little time. The old one had a rubber chunk that was hanging off and jamming the window. Now the window goes up and down like new.
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Thanks for the tips - has anyone ever taken the motor apart and cleaned and lubed that or is it completely sealed?
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Thanks for all the replies. But to me a lot of these more in depth fixes would not take care of the problem at hand which seems to be the squeegee seal being to tight against the window when going down. There's now problem going up. I maybe will try a lube or powder as some suggest or even vaseline but does this leave residue on the window?
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Why not put new squeegees in. :confused: It's so easy; read my other reply. :cool: |
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Also I have replaced the squeegee seals. Possibly made it worse. |
I turn the crank faster, seems to work.
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I completely removed and disassembled everything.
The inner area of the frame where the felt is has to be completely stripped clean of old glue before new felt is installed. There is a glass inside/outside adjustment lock screw to freeze the in/out angle that the glass sits in the frame. I opened and closed the glass a few times to find the sweet spot. I rebuilt full monty. The glass will never open very fast even with a new motor and direct jumper power wires from battery. |
Mine even get stuck in the up position. Mechanic said motors are good. When/if driver's side comes down again I'll lube runners.
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I think targas have more issues than coup? I no nothing of targas.
when other 911 guys who ride say your windows fit and operate nice it'll be good enough. |
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