More pics from last night's adventures.

In all likelihood I will pull the fan / housing later in the year and have it cleaned up. I can't get any more grease off of it and it still looks average at best.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217944549.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1217944562.jpg

I should have been clearer.
The Thermo Time Switch on the left chain cover has 2 connections: 1 coming from the Starter Solenoid, and the other going to the Cold Start Valve.

There is another Thermo Switch that some engines had for Cold Start.
It is looped into the vacuum lines coming from the WUR.
It lookes like a small round can with one electrical connection and two nipples for vacuum.

However, it sounds like the mistery plug is for Cruise?
Cheers.

Craig,
I can't believe I never saw this thread... The motor looks great. Can't wait to hear that it cranked up. I saw Kevin Sunday night. I was driving Bob's GT3RS for him and coaching him in it at Roebling. Lol, you realize you don't have a choice, you have to come try out the new motor at the track in a few months right? It was a fun day though, got to drive Bob's RS, C4S, and the #4 one-lap finishing GT3.

I think Gunter may be correct. That sounds very familiar.

Looking good. I had good luck having my fan Powder coated. I think I got the fan and valve covers, engine tin and other stuff for $100 at a local place here in Conyers. Not sure how it held up I sold the car shortly after words.

Yep, I will be taking it to the track. I need to lower it though - the new shocks added some serious height. I was considering doing this while the engine was out but I think it would be too much to address in light of all of the other stuff I have to worry about.

I wish that the DEs were not held during the summer months. Too hot for air cooled engines in my opinion. I will probably hit one up in the fall.

Wah! $100 is a deal!

I had the engine tin, cylinder tin, valve covers, and the brackets at the rear all powder coated. They did some three step process. Even after remove the black from the "PORSCHE" lettering on the valve covers they went back and clear coated it. Cost me $250ish.

My fan has some cracked blades anyhow. I need a new one. The housing is fine, just nasty looking.

Put CIS on last night. Everything went well except for the breather hose. It tore as it was being slipped over the breather cover nipple.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026207.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026222.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026236.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218026252.jpg

That thing needs a distributor...
Looks good. Good that the hose tore when you were installing instead of later. Funny that we were just talking about the hoses leaking the other day.

Yah that aluminum elbow that goes in the back of the turtle boot feeds nasty oil and fumes back into the intake...which cant help the combustion process (oily air might not burn as well as clean dry air), it was an emission thing sort of like the EGR valves. Eventually might want to plug that and set up a breather system, my tired motor ran a lot better when I stopped re-circulating the gases. Of course that may of been because of a vacuum leak I fixed at the same time.

My powder coat was a budget deal, they dipped, baked and coated them not alot of time and no clear coat follow up so that may account for the price difference....looked great when I got them back :-)

The breather system is definitely the way to go. If nothing else it's a lot neater. You can do the breather system a variety of ways too. I prefer a puke tank with a filter on the tank.

not to re direct this great thred, however, Andrew, can you please post pics of this breather mod you say helps and the parts needed ?? If you wish, you can email me direct at bobf@design-associatee.us if you wish. I am very interested in how you do this as I feel the same that all of those oily fumes definately don't help the combustion an an already taxed cis set up.
Thanks,
Bob

+1

I would like to see that too. In the meantime, I will leave as is. But it might make a good winter project.

Andy ... chime in as well and provide some pics or details if you have them.

search for "breather" or puke can there has been several threads.

IMHO, I think Porsche setup the early 912s for the best breather systems ever...

crankcase breather hoses are used on many high performance vehicles, the thing to remember is that this is totally independant of the cumbustion chambers. What you are doing is essentially venting the noxious gases formed in the crankcase that mix with oil, so the best place to vent it is usually the oil system. Now it also technically improves airflow in the crankcase, as well. The following pics are from a full race 911 with a 27qt oil system. Now, no one probably wants to go to that extreme unless they're racing, but... it still makes sense.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218040491.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1218040521.jpg


You can see the oil tank, and the vent tube going to the catch can or "puke tank" Now these tanks must be emptied, on occaision. They sell nice ones with level indicators. This particular setup has an intergral air filter, some of them have external filters.

Personally I like many of the setups for Subarus and I'd adapt one of those to a 911. They have some really nice pieces available, and the apadtation isn't that difficult, but this is essentially all that you're trying to do whenever you install a breather system.

hmm so are you saying Andrew that the crankcase/oil tank venting to the turtle on top of the CIS is not bad for the combustion event? Or that it is good for the oil system?

I dont want to promote an idea that is not helpful.

by the way I sure would love to buy the RSA!

What I meant was that the gases you're venting don't really have anything to do with the combustion chambers. if it goes in the intake it's burned and/or shot out the exhaust. This really is crankcase ventilation, there were emission reasons to have it go back into the intake, kind of like recirculating blow off valves that come standard on most turboed cars. I just meant that the two are seperate.

I can say that any ventilation is good for the oil system.
You could argue it is bad for the combustion event, but I think that the detrimental effect is pretty negligible. from a performance standpoint breathers keep your oil healthier, and are almost a windage modification allowing less resistance in the crankcase as everything is spinning. It can be a much neater package when you relocate it to a seperate catch tank than have oils just shooting right back into your intake though.

Lol, as for the RSA... it's yours if you pay for it.

When I install my dizzy, do I need to put any assembly lube on the gears or some motor oil? What about on the dizzy o-ring?

Also, when I install my fuel injectors do I need to use a punch on the intakes in order to hold the injectors place? I would rather NOT do this if the injector sleeve o-ring will provide enough resistance to keep the injectors in place. If I want to replace the injectors sometime in the future it won't be such a pita to get them out.

Thanks,
Craig

Craig,
If you're planning on replacing the injectors, I'd do them all now. 911s aren't nearly as bad as 944s. Usually on a 944 you try to replace one injuector and end up being forced to replace all 4 as the others start leaking once you replace the fuel rail. Still, if you were planning on replacing them I'd do it while everything's out/apart. Other than that, be careful and check for leaks.

Some lube on the o-ring isn't a bad idea, but I don't think you really need to worry about the gears too much.

Not replacing the injectors now. At $60 per injector I can't justify spending another $360. That is why I want to do it down the road after the current rebuild tab starts to fade from my wife's memory.:D

They are not easy to change if the intakes have been punched (I forget the technical name). You have to grind off the tabs in order to get the injectors out. Can't do that with the engine in the car.

That is why I am wondering if I can install without re-punching. This will make it easy as pie to pull them later on down the road.

I think a little confusion here Craig, possibly ??

To begin with, the metal intake runner (there are 6 of these... the bent pipes if you will) and these each have a orangie/red plastic sleeve that is staked into the intake runner by the triangular shaped "stake" indentation right above the top lip of the sleeve. These are cheap @ ~$6.00 ea. IF any of these are loose or have popped out it is best to at minimum to install new ones. Really best to do them all as once you do 1 they are easy.

As for the metal pencil shaped actual fuel injector, those pull out not to tough even if in the car. Make sure to use new rubber o-rings when install.

So, which are you contemplating and/or having questions about since I just rambled off here...?
Bob