Where do I go from here???

[Ricks911s]

For the last year (on and off) I've been restoring a 1976 911S. Today was not good. I've been leaking a lot of oil (onto the exhaust which has caused me a great deal of embarrassment ) and as going to replace the oil return tubes. I took off the heat exchangers . . blah blah blah and looked up and saw that oil is coming out of cylinder 2 and 4 (middle on driver & passenger side). To top that off I look up into cylinder 2 and 4 and saw about a 2/3" gap between the exhaust valve in each respective cylinder.

Okay . . . so after I went inside I stirred a stiff drink and gulped it down . . . I recollected my composure and asked -- what do I do? Suffice it to say, I couldn't answer the question.

1) Putting in a 3.0L engine. But how much does that run? My research indicates going bigger (i.e., 3.2L) isn't an easy conversion.

2) Rebuild? I'm guessing slightly less money (and tempting, given the challenge).

Other choices?

[matt4hand]

drop a 3.6 ? More $$$ but more fun??? I have a 3.0 and I am very happy with it...at least this month I am

[JP911]

Tough dilemma, but one that many on this board have faced. The 2.7 was not one of Porsche's better engines. A 2.7 rebuild can be expensive because more machine work is required to get the case "straight". Purchasing a used 3.0 will likely be cheaper, but you're buying an unknown quantity that may run for 100K miles before needing anything other than oil and valve adjustments or may give up the ghost in a month and require rebuildling. You've got to weigh the pros and cons for yourself.

[euro911sc]

Originally Posted by Ricks911s

To top that off I look up into cylinder 2 and 4 and saw about a 2/3" gap between the exhaust valve in each respective cylinder.

What exactly are you saying here? Sounds to me like the valves may simply have been open? 1-6-2-4-3-5...

Have you checked your head studs lately? You may wish to re-torque them, though there are different views on the merits of that. You may have a broken stud... in which case you will have more direction then you do now.

Leak down? Compression?

All these will help you choose a path to enlightenment

Best regards,

Michael

[ossiblue]

All sound and accurate advice so far, especially from Michael--you need more diagnostics, especially if the engine has never been out of the car. If money is the key issue for you, finding a reliable 3.0 or 3.2 is possibly less expensive than a complete rebuild/upgrade of the existing 2.7. Find out the condition of the present engine, then spin out some alternate scenarios.

[dweymer]

I agree with Micheal here, turn the engine over using the fan pulley and then look at the valves again to see if they have closed up.

Is the oil coming out of the exhaust port?

Next step would be a leakdown and compression check. This may identify valve/guide leaks vs. rings. If the rings are ok , it seems you just need a valve job.

I went through the same thing on mine. I chose to rebuild myself. No case machining though. New bearings, sc cams, rebuilt heads etc. It runs great, but leaks(flywheel seal) which may be due to too much sealant between the halves. I then found a core 3.0 for under 3k and jumped on it. Now I am building a 3.2short stroke with the 3.0 'cause it is dead. I am still running the leaky 2.7 and just ordered a speedi sleeve which hopefully will fix the leak, if not I have to dissassemble the engine and reseal it.

It is tough to make these decisions, but you really need to know what is wrong first. It may only be a $700 valve job(if you remove and re-install). Spending a hundred on a leakdown/compression is well worth it.

D

[john walker's workshop]

get it running and warmed up before bothering with compression/leakdown tests. sure to have less than decent results on a cold engine that's been sitting for years. do retorque the heads to 23# though. lots of 2.7s need it at every valve adjust due to worn head, case and cylinder mating surfaces that are no longer on the same plane as when new. usually slows down some oil leakage.

[Ricks911s]

Danke guys.

I think everyone is right on the compression/leakdown test. Especially if the valves are open because of firing order (though from what I see, I'm not convinced of that.) I've performed a compression test before but not a leakdown.

I've pulled the oil return tubes off already . . . so I suppose I'll just do that job anyway. And the alternator was out so I could get it bench tested (tracking down a drain).

John - Good idea to retorque the heads.

D - There is oil coming out of the exhaust port. Where did you get your 3.0L?

Michael - Last time I performed a valve change I didn't notice a pulled/broken head stud.

My digital camera was stolen. I'm getting a new one soon and will post pics to show what I'm dealing with.

Thanks again.