Pelican Parts Forums - Is there an easy way to tell if a factory short shift is fitted?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MrPerkles (Post 3862493)

Sorry to barge in on this thread ,when I change from 5th to 4th on my Factory short shift it sometimes feels like i am snicking a cog (very faintly) .Is there any way you can adjust these kits

Apart from making sure that all of the bushings are in good shape, you can adjust the linkage at the coupling underneath the cover on the tunnel between the front and rear seats. If you'll do a search, you'll find umpteen discussions of exactly how to go about it.

UR

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911pcars (Post 3861169)

Randy,
I'm not aware of any extra adjustments on 85-8[6] shift housings. The only different adjustment feature is the large set screw at the base of the tower to adjust the side-to-side play (clearance) of the fork - nothing to do with actual distance between gear positions. Other than this, shift housings are interchangeable.

Sherwood

I checked the article and didn't see anything like what I think I remember. Maybe I was thinking of the semi-short shifter with 10% shorter throws. That change was made then.

BTW - how did they do that? Did they just alter the position of the holes in that sheet metal rectangle (the yoke, I think it is called)?

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 3863277)

Randy,
Yep. As in all factory variations of the short shift lever, PAG lengthened the lever below the pivot point and compensated by moving the fork pivot hole upward an equivalent amount.

Weiltmeister's version instead uses a separate spacer block to space the entire shift housing upward the same distance as the longer length below the pivot (same effect).

The distance between the ball end of the lever and the shift tube receptacle is fixed, thus the need to maintain this fixed distance. If the ball end length becomes longer w/o compensation, the extra lever length creates conflicts with the shift tube.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood