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The front valance on my Carrera is pretty ugly. It has a lot of large chips that have revealed a white primer (?) underneath. There are also a few chips here and there in the usual spots (hood, flares).
Since the valance is pretty well scarred, I would use a brush to retouch it. For the chips, I would imagine a drop of paint followed by a gentle buffing with rubbing compound would work. But then, I have no clue. I also don't want to spend for this - I want a decent solution, not an overkill one (esp. for the valance). How can I get the equivalent of a pint or so of proper Guards Red paint? ------------------ Roger '85 Carrera 3.2 Coupe aka "Sputterbug" http://sputterbug.com |
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Roger,
You can get a quart of Guard's Red mixed up at any automotive paint store ... for about the same price as two of the dinky Porsche touch-up bottles with brush in lid ... that tend to dry out just sitting indoors on your desk! I got a quart of Dupont Centari a few years ago and did my valve covers in Guards Red. No P-tax, either! The GM reds are higher! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
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In the UK, Halford superstores will mix any colour for you and put it into a touch-up tin or aerosol. I'm sure there must be a similar service in the US.
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Will "any automotive paint store" know what Guards Red is? Do I need the paint code from the car, or is that designation enough?
Forgive my ignorance please! I'm not even sure what an automotive paint store is; around here we have automotive stores and paint stores, two animals. Is there a chain? ------------------ Roger '85 Carrera 3.2 Coupe aka "Sputterbug" http://sputterbug.com |
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I just ordered 2 spray cans of off white from Tower Paint towerpaint.com I didn't know what the color was so I sent them a paint sample. The paint matching was $15 and the paint was $15. Painless and the paint matched.
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Thanks, but this is precisely why I posted this seemingly lame thread... How does one send a "paint sample" from a car?? The devil is in the details!
I am looking for a practical and simple way to match this paint and get a small, but not miniscule, quantity of it for touch up work. If someone has done this for their Porsche (or any car), I'd like to hear about it. Thanks - sorry to press on about this. ------------------ Roger '85 Carrera 3.2 Coupe aka "Sputterbug" http://sputterbug.com |
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Hi Roger.
Go to any paint store and ask them where a local automotive paint place is. At the automotive paint place they have a computer that theye key in "Porsche" "Guards red" and "1985". It gives the formula for the paint and they make it up on the spot for you and only costs a few bucks - easy. Bill '79SC |
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Speaking of the "touch up paint with a brush in the lid that dries up on you desk", what solvent can be used to remix the paint if it starts getting stiff (but not dry)? Is it MEK, toluene, etc.
Eric 83SC |
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Well, that factory paint is acrylic enamel, so don't be trying acetone, MEK, or any other strong stuff related to laquer thinner!
I have used the same Dupont Enamel Reducer that I used with the Centari, and that worked fine on the dried up Signal Yellow touch-up paint in my desk drawer. Just like it is bad for film, storing touch-up paint in your glove compartment is not a great idea! Indoors is a much better place for paint, if you expect it to be usable a year after you buy it. ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
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Guards red paint code is 80K, in case you want to know. I had a local guy paint my rocker panels and bumper extension because of stone chips. I removed them and left them at his shop. $70. Perfect color match also. If you can remove it, it would be better then trying to cover up a few hundred chips.
------------------ 8 9 9 1 1, The last of the line. |
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Techniques??
Have a look at this: http://www.langka.com/ ------------------ Doug '81 SC Coupe (aka: "Blue Bomber") Canada West Region PCA members.home.net/zielke/911SC.htm |
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For techniques, look at several books and talk to a few detailers if they are willing to give up their secrets. The touch up paint that you buy fron the dealers and retailers in the little bottles with attached brushes are slightly different than what you buy at a paint store. TRhe stuff in the bottles is thicker and tend to dry a little faster than the fresh mixed stuff.
The first step is preperation. Use 400 grit wet/dry sand paper and sand each of the chips so that there is no defined edges. I have had the best luck punching holes in the sand paper with a paper punch and gluing the little dots to the eraser end of a pencil. Using a lot of water and light circular motions cut down the edges of the chips. be careful not to sand through the primer layer or you'll have to re-primer. If you go with the little bottles, DO NOT use the attached brush. Go to a local hobby or arts and craft store and but a couple of good artist brushes. The extra few dollars spent will pay off many times over in quality. This is especially true for scratches. Take your time and layer the paint on a little higher than the rest of the paint. Then take 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper and A LOT of water and lightly sand the dried touched up areas followed by rubbing compound, glaze, and wax. If using the mixed stuff, you may be able to use the same method as above, but be sure to put on lighter and more coats. I have had great luck using an air brush (also found at art stores in a kit with canned air get a single action internal mixe AB). Thin the paint with a compatable paint thinner to the consistancy of milk. Practice on a piece of cardboard first. Spray several light coats on each of the chips then follow up with the 1500 and 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper, water, rubbing compound, glaze, and wax. The later is a secret that many high end detailers use. Take your time, and don't be too critacle or your final product. Remember doing this you will be concentration heavily on the flaws up close and personal. Someone else will not be able to see half of the imperfactions that you will see. Good luck. ------------------ Dave 1970 914-6 (soon GT) |
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