Strange engine noise/tensioner?

[Kirk Lundmark]

I have an 82sc with 185,000 miles. I tucked it away last fall and all was well. Put Seafoam in all the right places and did not start it all winter. Well, maybe once after putting on the M&K muffler.

I brought it home and it has developed a strange noise the comes from the right side of the engine. It has a harmonic sound and a slight rattle that last only 10-15 seconds on a cold start only. It goes away on the second start. See video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCHV9WbGFNA

The car had tensioner upgrades and new ramps at 131,000. I ran the car withou the AC and the alternator connected. The hum persists.

I put a wooden dowel to my ear on the side case of the engine and can hear what sounds like normal sounds eminating from the case. I don't have the chain over the garbage can sound.

I have been searching the forum but am not sure about failed tensioners. From the repair shops bill, I do not see new chains.

Thoughts?

Best,

Kirk

[Zef]

If the noise come from chain housing...may be worth to open and give a look.

[Kirk Lundmark]

I tried a pint of Seafoam in the oil and a full drive to get the engine up to operating temps. This seems to have cleared up my issue and also appears to be running better than ever. I have never used Seafoam in the oil, only in the gas when put to bed for the season.

Is it possible that I had a partially collapsed tensioner and the Seafoam helped clear it up?

It's still a little cool up in the northern tundra. Low 30's at night and only up to upper 40's? I am running 20w/50 Castrol.

[Gunter]

Never tried Seafoam and don't know what it does to the oil; why not use GM-EOS ?
For winter storage, Stabil and Injector Cleaner is added to the gas and run through the CIS before shutting down.
Why are you using 20W50 at this time of year?
For these cooler Spring temps, I use 15W40 Diesel and maybe go to 20W50 during the hot Summer months.
If the last rebuild didn't replace the chain sprockets on the I-shaft, re-using the old chain was good practise.
New chains on old chain sprockets is asking for trouble.

[Kirk Lundmark]

Gunter,

I did an oil change last fall to get contaminated oil out before storage. I don't drive it when it is cold, under 40. I didn't want to put in lighter oil for the 200-300 miles driven in the spring.

We have always used Seafoam when storing boats etc. for the winter up in the Minnesota tundra. I know nothing of GM-EOS. I only put the Seafoam in the engine case after extensive searching on this site.

It turns out my initial diagnosis was incorrect. I have found the rear oil line vibrates on start up. I see that there are three brackets found in Pelicans site for oil lines, however, no picture though. My car has some jury rigged non-stock bracket holding, or not holding it in place.

Check out the picture and please let me know if you see missing support brackets.

Thanks,

Kirk

[Gunter]

I have SSI's with different oil lines; don't remember the brackets on the stock set-up.
Still think that 20W50 is too heavy for Spring temps.

[ossiblue]

My recollection is there is a bracket more toward the midline of the engine, just under the crank pulley, that supports the oil line--somewhere to the left of the bracket shown in your photo. Again, this is from memory, but it difinitely was not attached to a chain cover bolt. I also seem to remember the line itself had the bracket brazed on to it.

[Kirk Lundmark]

I checked for a missing braze point and could not detect any spots where the bracket may have been attached.

911-207-303-00-OEM This is the part number from our host. It says it is an oil line bracket and that three are required.

Any ideas?

[Kirk Lundmark]

I have finally solved my noise situation. I was beginning to think that I may need a new oil pump. My vibration noise occurred only on cold start up and continued for 10-15 seconds.

Upon review of Wayne's book on 101 things to do to your Porsche I noted a comment on the sump plate. It said that if the sump plate was incorrectly installed it would restrict the oil flow.

My sump plate was deformed from what I assume was my or the PO's previous use of that area of the motor as a jack point. I had been very careful to use multiple layers of cardboard to cushion the area.

I removed the sump plate and hammered it back to form, cleaned the screen, no chunks to speak of, just what appeared to be some plastic from the air box, reassembled and waited for my cold start test this morning.

The car started up and sounds great, no vibration.

[Gunter]

[QUOTE=Kirk Lundmark;3968472]
My sump plate was deformed from what I assume was my or the PO's previous use of that area of the motor as a jack point. I had been very careful to use multiple layers of cardboard to cushion the area.

I removed the sump plate and hammered it back to form, cleaned the screen, no chunks to speak of, just what appeared to be some plastic from the air box, reassembled and waited for my cold start test this morning.
QUOTE]

Most people disagreed with the practise of using the sump plate as a point of lifting; I am one of them.
Avoid lifting the car with the engine but, if you have to, go just before or aft of the plate right on the seam with some wood (Or a hockey puck) under the jack.

The plastic on the screen is most likely from the chain ramps, not from the airbox.
It calls for an inspection of the ramps to see why because it's not normal.

[Kirk Lundmark]

Gunter,

As always you are such a great resource for what is going on with these cars.

I had already made the decision to not jack on the engine.

I will check the ramps and let you know what I find.

Best,

Kirk

[3.2 CAB]

+1 on the ramps, not air box.