Clutch fork - allowable wear?

[RWebb]

How much wear is ok on a 915 clutch fork? I am talking about the wear at the ends of the horns where contact with the throw out bearing is made.

Thanks!

I have a clutch fork that I cannot remove (cannot drive or drill out the roll pin as there is so much rust it is in solid.)

[84toy]

That area is supposed to be curved and frequently gets worn flat. When flat, it's certainly not as smooth and no longer pulls at the center. If you can't see a flat spot and no indentation from wear I would re-use it

[RWebb]

Hmmm... well, here is a closeup

[84toy]

That's the typical wear. I'm sure many pay no attention to it but I would replace it. As you push in the clutch and the arm sweeps in an arc, the contact area must also be in an arc. I'm sure you will find a smoother clutch with it replaced. I have carefully "belt sanded" an arc back in the slightly worn arms but the picture looks like it is beyond that but hard to tell for sure.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by RWebb

How much wear is ok on a 915 clutch fork? I am talking about the wear at the ends of the horns where contact with the throw out bearing is made.

Thanks!

I have a clutch fork that I cannot remove (cannot drive or drill out the roll pin as there is so much rust it is in solid.)

Randy:
Better now than later; at some point you'll have to deal with it.
Since you need to replace the fork anyway, grind the roll pin down and into the body of the fork, soak it overnight with penetrating oil and then drive it out with a small hardened drift.
Drilling it out is your next option.
If in doubt, ask JW; the issue is not new.

[RWebb]

Thanks Gunter, but I have tried all that (except 2 days not one with penetrating oil).

Got other ideas? How about a propane or Mapp Gas torch?? Would heating it to that level work?

Or just using it for a while -- like I noted above there is about .5 to .8 mm of wear - doesn't seem like much to me.

[Gunter]

It's hard to judge by the picture but if the total wear is under 1mm, maybe re-using it is o.k.
Are you saying that, when you put the fork into the groove, you can get feelers in there maximum 0.8 mm?
That would be alright IMHO.
They all show some wear over time but the important thing is to inspect for tiny stress-cracks with the special dye.
Send an E-mail to JW re: wear and what dye to use.
Cheers.

[RWebb]

I can't get the roll pin out - way too rusted in this trans. I got cheated on, so it's a moot point I guess as to condition of the fork...

Thanks tho.

[1982911SCTarga]

I can't get the roll pin out - way too rusted in this trans.

Hey, come on! As the inestimable Tim Hancock once told me:

Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?..... Hell no, now get back in there and use some serious "applied pressure".

Brian

[RWebb]

afraid I'll crack the case

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by 1982911SCTarga

"Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?..... ".

Brian

Hmm........Strange history they're teaching in Virginia or else somebody missed a lot of classes.

Google with the keywords: "Japanese, Aircraft Carriers, Pearl Harbor" and you'll be rewarded.

Fortunately because of Hitler's blunder, the Germans only had short-range twin-engine stuff like the JU-88 and HE-111 and it would have been funny for them to try and go to Honolulu.
Without a long-range bomber, the Nazis were unable to bomb the factories behind the Ural Mountains where the famous T-34 was build that eventually rolled into Berlin.
The real lesson for long-range came with the B-17, B-24 in Europe and the B-29 for Japan.