Carburetor question

Hello everyone. Just wondering if you guys can help. Ive got a 77 2.7 engine that Im converting to Webers. Would the distributor work in this application? My manifolds do not have any vacuum ports so Im going to have to tap into one of them in order to run my vacuum advance in my dist. Also, what would be the drawback in using F26 emulsion tubes as opposed to the specified F3? I cannot seem to unscrew my intake studs in order to install the longer ones to use the PMO insulator blocks. Any suggestions as to the methods or tools required?
Thanks.
Riley

[This message has been edited by O2Cooled (edited 05-19-2001).]

Get ahold of PMO. Unfortunately, they are only accessilbe by FAX. The answers to your tuning questions are there.

As to the studs, one can purchase Snap On's stud removal tools(pricey) or just use 2 nuts, locked
against each other. Here again, Porsche uses
some type of Locktite. This stuff needs heat
(and lots of it) to melt and release its grip. A heat gun is the hot (?) set-up here(cheap).

JPIII

that's a retard on your distributor, so don't worry about it. set timing to 35 degrees total advance with an adjustable advance timing light, them whatever it idles at, is what it idles at.(degreewise.) the F26 doesn't have as good a transition as the F3. but it's not as bad on a stock engine as it is on one with cams. pack a rag in each port as you pull the studs out. big visegrips, double nuts, or that nice snapon puller get them out. you're not going to use them again, so kill the threads if you have to.

[This message has been edited by john walker's workshop (edited 05-20-2001).]

Thanks, John and JP. Ive got the studs pulled off using the two bolt method. My dilemma now is that when I tried to sync my carbs and adjust the idle mixture, Im getting a tremendous amount of spit back and backfire. What could be the cause of this? Im not too familiar with carbs and would like to get more info on these issues.
Thanks.

It would be nice to understand everything I know about Webers......sigh.
You are having what sounds like a lean pop.

Ball park tuning:
Main jet size 135
Idle jet size 55
Air correction jet size 145
Venturi size 34mm
Etube size, we know but f3 would be better

Tuning should be done after the engine is warm...they all pop when cold....well, mine sure as hell does for the first 2-3 minutes.
In my experience, the idle adjustment screws
should not have to be opened more than 2-
2 1/2 turns to cure a lean pop. If so, larger idle jets are a good idea. The larger
jets will help cure a transition problem also.

Takes a bit of time and ****ing with em' to get a handle it.

I assume you have ballanced the carbs, side to side and end for end.

JPIII
Good grief, I've been edited.

[This message has been edited by J P Stein (edited 05-20-2001).]

Hello

Simple quest:

What fuel pump is used ?

Checked the float level ?

Valve lash and timing ok?

Grüsse

JP: All jet sizes you mentioned were used as per Bruce Anderson's instructions except for the Etube which is F26.
Roland: Fuel pump is Facet, Float level is iffy, and valve lash and timing have not been adjusted for a while. Is float level an essential factor? I was under the impression that as long as it doesnt overfill and flood, that it is ok. Would too low of a float level cause the engine to lean out? I apologize if some of these concepts are so simple but escapes me. Im a novice and am trying to learn as much from everyone's experience.
Thanks for everyone's help.