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Join Date: May 2008
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911 door hinge pins

Hello
new to this forum in fact new to forums !
drivers door has 'dropped', looked at hinge pins and found that that they do not appear to be fully inserted that is the ribbed section at the pin head end is visible circa 10/12mm.
Am I right in thinking that these pins should be fully inserted ?
I have purchased 2 new pins from Porsche dealer, and inserted one to the same depth as original, do I now need to drive fully home ?

Is there a press tool for doing this ? I was thinking of driving in with hammer and punch, I note that there is a dimple in the head

I checked the passengers side hing pins and they are inserted as first described hence my questioning the correct way of insertion with regard to how far in they should be driven

any advice much appreciated

thank you
antonpel

Old 05-02-2008, 01:35 PM
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Welcome!

The pins do not go flush, they have some shaft showing when properly installed. There are a couple of reasons for this, but the main one is so that you can get the "door hinge tool" in there. I don't have a pic of one, but someone will post it.

Another way to tackle the hinge pins is to remove the door hinges and all. the you have access to use a punch. Lastly, your hinge bushings may be worn, but if not too bad, you can rehang the door using some shims to adjust the height. The pins don't wear out, they just get beat up.
Old 05-02-2008, 01:45 PM
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I had a similar issue:

Mine was inserted upside down creating a loud snap everytime I used the driver door.

I checked my passanger side and it was in correctly and about half way in snug.

I pulled out the pin on the driver side and placed it in correctly and the snap is gone and now has normal movement and resistance.

I originally hand pressed it in but it tended to wiggle out so I used a mallet and hammered it down but not flush. It seemed to work and no adverse effects.

My 2 cents.

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Last edited by DRACO A5OG; 05-02-2008 at 01:49 PM..
Old 05-02-2008, 01:46 PM
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Welcome Tony, I used very thin plates to shim my 356 door into adjustment. The plates go between the door hinge post and the hinge on either the upper or lower hinge. This will change the angle of the door depending on the thickness of the plate(s)
Old 05-02-2008, 01:53 PM
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If you mean the "door check pivot pins" there is one on each door.
They are actually a little metal coil. The dimple you see is the inside of the coil.

The easiest way to install is to leave them in the freezer overnite.

Then run out quickly and use needle nose pliers and a big hammer to pound them in from the top side before they expand.

Removal requires a punch press from the bottom pounding up.

Make sure you put a lot of duct tape on the door jams for when you miss with the hammer.
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Old 05-02-2008, 01:55 PM
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If you mean the angle/positioning of the door, that is adjusted at the door hinge bolts (six each side) by loosening them (with the door supported) realigning the door panel gaps and then tightening them back in.
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Old 05-02-2008, 01:59 PM
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Just so you're not confused here, the top pin goes in from the bottom. The bottom pin goes in from the top.
Old 05-02-2008, 02:04 PM
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Hello All
as I say new to forums : amazed and delighted with the speed of the responses thus far !
To clarify 'drop' : with the door fully open, I can lift the door and see the movement between the 2 hinge plates , top and bottom hinges. I can understand shimming the pillar hinge plates to alter the 'throw' of the door, but am not certain that is the remedy in this case.
I veer towards the bushes in the hinges being worn, are these replaceable or doI have to insert shim material here
Please forgive any terms you may not understand I am UK national res.in the UK

thank you and please keep the advice rolling in

kind regards to all
tonypel
Old 05-02-2008, 02:11 PM
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Sounds like you need to order some bushings. You can search here for any procedure known to ever be done to a 911, but let me just tell you that you will need an 8mm reamer to do this job. You insert the slightly smaller busings which become a little distorted during the process. The reamer will round them out for a no-slop fit. Grease and go.

BTW, this is not a tapered reamer, it's a straight one. It could have a very small taper in order to insert, but it's not the usual machine shop reamer.
Old 05-02-2008, 03:29 PM
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Welcome, you will come to believe that a lot of people here, don't do much but ride the keyboard.
That is not actually the case. A lot, take frequent breaks, between the wizardry that they preform.
You should not have much lag time, in getting valuable answers here!! Good luck!! Tony.

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Old 05-02-2008, 08:03 PM
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