The leatherique challange is on

Diablo Dents · 01-14-2007, 10:43 AM

I removed the passenger seat (least worn of the two) to figure out how to work with this stuff. followed the instructions and applied a small amount of rejuvenator oil and let it sit overnight. The R.O. looks like and has a similar consistency of Lexol. It got down to 22 degrees last night but the R.O. was gone. So that tells me it didn't evaporate, also it seems to thick to evaporate. Today I used their prep solution with 400 grit wet sand paper to remove the old dye. Big pain in the ***. It almost seemed like the back of the seat and center sections had a clear coat, or maybe just years of snake oil build up. Once sanded the pours opened up on the leather. When sanding you must wipe the old wet dye smear with towels to remove it from the seats. Then I applied the R.O. to the seat in the sun. Warmth seems to help it penetrate the pours. It was surprising how fast this oily stuff went into the leather. I kept wiping it on and it kept going in. I'm assuming you keep doing this until it won't take on any more R.O. I'm still skeptical so I'm not getting my hopes up on having it totally soften the seats like thy were years ago. Pictures won't help on this one I'm trying to get them soft again. I'll post updated in the next few days as this part might take a few

RickM · RickM's Garage

I believe some have applied the oil and then cover with a plastic bag overnight. Seems the longer it sits on the leather the better the results. IMO, it's best to do in warmer temps.

A search may yeild more on the technique.

01-14-2007, 11:49 AM

Won't work correctly without heat.

sdenton · 01-14-2007, 12:42 PM

I recently went through this whole process. Heat is a must. Stick the seats in the house, if the wife allows...

I added the rejuv almost a week before it quit absorbing. You then use a thinner to get the "greasy stuff" off the top. Which seems odd? However, when I applied the dye it went on great and looks brand new. Highly recommend this product!

William930t · 01-14-2007, 01:42 PM

Agreed, the addition of warmth after sanding to open leather pores is a must when applying conditioning oils. It is best to apply in the morning, then position the vehicle out in the sun and let the interior "bake". I would be hesitant to do this during the winter months. However, if conditioning oils appear to be absorbing, thats a good sign. The final light wipe-down with a solvent dipped rag is to remove the very top layer of oil so that color will adhere properly. Follow directions exactly, and take time between steps. Practice using the color on a spare piece of leather to get the technique down, meaning no brush marks. I used a sponge-brush with the best results. Do light initial applications to build up color, three coats should be enough.

Show us the results!

Diablo Dents · 01-14-2007, 04:00 PM

Great info. I brought the seat in my office and so far no issues from you know who. I've gone through quite a bit of RO and it is going somewhere. The leathique people said not to cover with plastic anymore. They said it needs to breath. However I like the idea of bagging the seat. So I guess at this point do I keep putting the RO until it stops soaking in?

Diablo Dents · 01-14-2007, 04:22 PM

This is interesting. It's so cold in the garage the RO has solidified in the bottle. So now with the seat in the house I'll smear the RO jelly on it and see how it works inside. Is it obvious when it stops taking in the RO?

autobonrun · autobonrun's Garage

I normally just clean during the winter months. The time to do the rejuvenator oil softening is during the summer. Typically, I'll saturate the leather and let it sit with the windows up. Sometimes it's so hot in my garage during the summer I don't even put the car outside. I've never even considered doing it during the winter. Maybe it will work; don't know.

I'm not sure why you are using the prepping agent. Are you redying your seats or just trying to soften and clean them? The prepping agent is only needed prior to a redye. If you just softening, I'd keep all the original dye I could on the leather. As others have said, use heat to open up the pores.

Edit:

I take back what I said. I read the instructions on their site again, and the prepping agent can be used to open up the pores if the leather is not absorbing. I think you will still get better results however in the summer.

Diablo Dents · 01-15-2007, 06:34 AM

I just got off the phone with the leatherique people. I explained that the RO is getting soaked up fast is this normal. She asked how fast? I said with in a few minuets the seat goes from a shiny oily smear to a dull mat finish. It's only been a day and I've used almost the whole quart on one seat. She said the leather that was used back then was thicker that what's used today, and that the RO is to thick to pass through and soak into the foam. So the conclusion was that the seats were very dry and needed this more than I thought. Does this sound correct?

mthomas58 · 01-15-2007, 08:03 AM

Chris, thanks for keeping us updated on your progress! We love pics....got any to post on your project thus far?

Thanks!

Diablo Dents · 01-15-2007, 08:10 AM

I love pics too. This seat project is more of re hydrating hard leather. So pics won't work here. However the drivers seat has a bit more surface work to do so that one I'll definitely post pics. I'm PC challenged is it difficult to post pics?

mthomas58 · 01-15-2007, 08:35 AM

Thanks Chris. I'm particularly interested in seeing what the leather looks like with the "sealer" removed with the prepping agent/ sandpaper. I've got an 87 with sealer on top that I will have to remove to re-dye. My seat leather is firm not hard but I am hopefull it will soften up measurably.

I'm still not crazy with Leatherique's second attempt to color match my green/gray (said it was difficult to match). First attempt wasn't even close (hard to believe they even sent it out). I'm thinking about going ahead with it and re-ordering if I don't like the match. Right now I've got a grey replacement cover and a beige bolster repair that the upholstry shop did for me...they stick out like sore thumbs.

Thanks!

Diablo Dents · 01-15-2007, 11:18 AM

When I sanded it was working well. You couls see the dye coming off on the sand paper. I didn't feel the need to go all the way down because I'm no changing the color. There were a few lighter spots here and there. The look was a nice mat finish. Not a glistening shellac sort of look. After sanding I used the cleaner and it looked ok. I'm still amazed on how the leather is soaking up this stuff. As far as a color match it can be difficult. I work in the automotive reconditioning industry. My trade is Paintless Dent Removal not upholstery. However I work along side a few great interior repair technicians. You should be able to get that color made. Did you take a digital photo of the color you want and send it to them? That might be the only way to give them a good swatch to mix up the correct color. Remember dye lots will always have variances. So print an 8X10 close up and send it to them.

cbeers · 01-15-2007, 12:05 PM

Quote:

My trade is Paintless Dent Removal not upholstery

Oooh really ???

Sounds like we have a B.A.P. session coming up

(Bay Area Pelicans)

-Chris

mthomas58 · 01-15-2007, 12:08 PM

Chris, I did better yet than digital photos. I've got the entire driver's seat cover that I replaced (i.e. and endless supply of actual swatches to send them for matching purposes) This is why I'm so puzzled at their failure to match on two prior attempts (although the second is close) with the actual color in their hands. I'm not going to be able to tell how well it matches until I dive in and do a cushion or panel.

Thanks and good luck on the completion of your project.....will continue to watch for updates.

Thanks!

autobonrun · autobonrun's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by mthomas58
Chris, I did better yet than digital photos. I've got the entire driver's seat cover that I replaced (i.e. and endless supply of actual swatches to send them for matching purposes) This is why I'm so puzzled at their failure to match on two prior attempts (although the second is close) with the actual color in their hands. I'm not going to be able to tell how well it matches until I dive in and do a cushion or panel.

Thanks and good luck on the completion of your project.....will continue to watch for updates.

Thanks!

Mark, make sure you pull the swatch from underneath where it hasn't been faded by the sun. There's usually a big difference in the color.

On my BMW, I decided to just dye all the seats, not just the one that needed it. The color was very close on the second batch but the fresh pigment is so much brighter I went this route to get everything to match.

My opinion is that sending in an actual swatch (approximately 1 sq inch) is the only way to go.

Diablo Dents · 01-15-2007, 02:38 PM

Wow they should've gotten it close if you sent them the whole seat. I'm no expert but if they're in that business they should get it satisfactory. As far as B.A.P. goes no problem happy to do it

mca · 01-15-2007, 03:44 PM

I am currently on my 4th application of the Rejuv Oil. I live in Charleston, SC where we have been having some decently warm weather (70s) ... so I figured that I would slap on the oil and let it bake in the sun.

My interior is fantastic and doesn't require much attention but my seats were redyed by PO and are far from being supple. In fact, the driver's side bolster tore as I was getting out of the car about a month ago (left elbow always lands there when I exit). That is why I decided to try Leatherique.

Anyhow, my seats are drinking it up and it seems to be working well. HEAT certainly helps but even if temps are above 50 I think that the stuff still works. It is pretty crazy how the oil pushes out all of the toxins. I use the Pristine Clean solution from Leatherique to get the tacky toxin film off.

Also, I am going to patch the crack this weekend. Leatherique had an exact dye match for my year (82 SC). They even directed me to a site where I could see the swatch and confirm the color.

I will post pics in a week. THIS PROCESS TAKES TIME AND PATIENCE!!

Diablo Dents · 01-15-2007, 04:34 PM

My seat is still in m,y office so temperatures are good. When I'm done with the R.O. I will have used 1 whole quart on one seat. It just kept taking it all in. I'm shocked that it was that dry!

mca · 02-17-2007, 10:23 AM

Quick Update on Leatherique:

Since my last post I have not been able to apply any more rejuvinating oil b/c it has been TOO COLD recently. Hence, no images to post.

However, I did patch a crack using Leatherique Crack Filler on a decently warm weekend and then dyed the crack with some Leatherique Dye.

The crack size was about 1/4" by 2". I applied the patch correctly and then filled the gap with crack filler. IMO, the crack filler pretty much sucks. It dries hard which makes absolutely no sense b/c leather needs to be flexible - I thought that it would dry like caulk (I may even try caulk next time). Since the application, the crack filler has cracked.

The dye swatch that I selected was wrong. It was supposed to be brown but was more like a purple/maroon. Not sure who is to blame ... maybe a little my fault and a little theirs. Obviously it is hard to select a color match via computer monitor - but I was directed to two possible 'brown' matches on a website ... and what I got was not brown.

I sent the dye back and they remixed it for a charge. Came back quite nice.

Also, since applying the rejuv oil and using Leathrique Pristine Clean to remove the residue, my leather seems to have become blotchy and dull. Maybe some dye was removed during the cleaning and oiling? I don't know ... but right now, I am not thrilled with the product. Hopefully the leather just needs more oil and cleaning when it gets a little warmer ... fingers crossed.

The rejuv oil has SERIOUSLY softened the leather though.