Well, that's something.....one of the first things I suggested, I may add. If the thing can be cleaned up, go for it, but if it were me, I'd replace it. It's cast, so be careful as it isn't too tolerant of abuse.

One repair technique is to repair the damaged threads with a Helicoil or equivalent. A machine shop with the correct metric thread kit could do this. Another is to Tig-weld the threaded opening, then redrill and tap for new threads.

An easier method might be to locate a reasonably priced replacement part.

Sherwood

should be a lot of used ones, as people toss these out to go with Wevo or SRP ones

should be a lot of used ones, as people toss these out to go with Wevo or SRP ones

put a WTB in the classifieds here. Someone will have what you need.

DAMN....Take 2..... Okay after waiting on 2 parts orders I finally put my car back together lets see almost a month into this thing. To my surprise it was not the bushings or the coupler. On dismantle I felt sure the culprit was the loose and stripped out set cone in the couple. I put the new bushings on and the new coupler and no dice. I tried a test drive with once again weird results. Please help!.........Car backed out of the garage fine, in reverse clutch seems to have good feel good grab, in 1st it feels like you are in 3rd, in the first 1/3 of the friction point it engages and starts to drive forward, in the middle 1/3 it starts to feel weird and labor more then in the last 1/3 where it should be roaring off it bogs the engine? Not sure if it is due to the low-ness of the reverse gear but it seems fine in that gear. Plus it feels like it is hitting all the gears just shifting at a stop. I am now also very worried it is a engine issue, like I have no power for some bad reason. It has a idle at 900ish that seems to lope almost like when you have a plug wire that has popped off and it is running on 5, it used to idle at a solid 1000ish and I could walk it into 1st w/o throttle . I feel like this is bad guys. The wife asked if it was fixed and when I said no I got one of those looks. The look that says, "you have a new 4 month old daughter, you just dropped a grand on 4 tires a wheel bearing and a alignment telling me it was good to go for another 148k miles and now this" kind of look..... Are there any other tests I can do or does it go back to the shop? I won't have a wounded car in my garage. If it goes back to the shop I may have to sell it after and don't want that. I have dropped a cylinder before but it did not act like this at all. What is a good clutch test? Beside the pull up to a tree, put it in 5th, let it out and see if it kills the car test? Will these cars pull away in 2nd? I have driven some Stangs before where 1st gear was really just optional but wasn't sure how well our cars could leave in 2nd? Thanks

You already know the answer to your problem: sell the car, or put it in storage until you have enough time and money to fix it yourself, or get it fixed properly.

My 1973 911 sat under a car cover for three years, and then in a garage for seven. The money and attention were directed to the kids and the house. As things eased up, I've been able to work on the car, but in the meantime, the money went for things like college education, and general maintenance on houses and time together with the family.

My wife of 34 years thought I ought to pass this on to you.

If you can afford to put your car in storage for 15 or 20 years, you'll have a fine classic when you can afford to turn your attention to it.

John.

Try selling your old trans as a core and finding a good transaxle from a recently dismantled car or on Pelican.

You can try to "manually" put it into 1st gear by undoing the shift couple at the pinch bolt, rather than the tapered screw. If you pull the shifter rod from the coupler you can use the coupler as a handle to feel for engagement of the gears.
Sitting in the back of the car, facing the rear, 1st gear is full counterclockwise and in. 2nd is full counterclockwise and out (toward front of car). You can actually feel for the detents and you know you are in neutral if you can rotate the coupler freely.
You could try confirming you are in 1st by using this method, start the car (clutch in of course) and see if you can drive around in this gear. If it feels like a normal 1st gear you just have some more adjusting to do

I am the type where either the car needs to be fixed now then sold to recoup the cost or sold now as is. I can't let things sit. That being said, from the doom and gloom posts I take it most feel the my trans is shot. First off I cant see how the whole thing could just $hit the bed that fast all at once. Where are the posts about how my clutch needs to be adjusted or try this or that etc....?

Were you just working on your heater backdate? Was this problem happening before that? Could you have crossed some plug wires, knocked a vacuum hose off, have you checked the gap on the clutch cable? Just some ideas.

Unfortunately for you, the clutch's default position is engaged. If your engine is bogging down as you slowly release the clutch the clutch is not to blame. Does your motor start, idle and rev fine in neutral?

Duke, I never got to the heater backdate due this these other issues.

The engine starts fine, revs fine, idle is a little off....it does seem to bog under a load but ONCE AGAIN I am not 100% certain I am in the gear I think I am. It doesnt bog in reverse. I do still think this is a trans issue thought.


What does the post about my clutch being in the default position mean?


Why would the clutch feel fine in reverse?

How's the pilot bearing?

1. The clutch disc, when the pressure plate is bolted down, is squeezed against the flywheel. Unless you release the spring pressure by depressing the clutch pedal, your engine is connected to your transmission. The fact that you said you can select a gear (whether it is 1st or 3rd) and the engine is fine until you begin to let out the clutch pedal suggests that your clutch and clutch pedal are working.

2. Maybe because you are in reverse? I don't know. It's possible your engine has a serious fault that will not allow it to develop sufficient power above idle (eg. fuel starvation). But if you can back up normally and drive around your neighborhood in reverse you should be able to do it in 1st. If, as described, you are indeed in 3rd or 4th it makes sense. The engine will seem just fine until you begin to release the clutch pedal. Any car will have a terrible time getting going in 3rd. You will hear the engine revs begin to bog down, a shuddering from the drive train and then it will stall. Imagine if you tried to start your bicycle up a hill in 10th gear!!

I have all of these symptoms listed in #2 so I think that somehow I lost 1st gear. Rather it is lost it as in can't select it as I can the other gears or lost it altogether is the real question. The car is finding some gear that seems to be located via shift lever location where the 1st gear used to be but that gear sure doesn't act like 1st. I am now wondering if boging my engine so much is damaging thing. I have read on posts before about how boging the engine is not good at all. Will these cars drive away in 2nd b/c I know I have 2nd gear?

Yes they can get going in 2nd. Once you reach about 10mph it will start to drive normally. However, feathering the clutch out to get it rolling will cause extra wear/ heat on the clutch. Not good for long term clutch survival.

Check your transmission mounts.

When you're in reverse, the front of the transmission wants to move UP... when you are engaging the clutch to go forward, the front of the transmission wants to move DOWN. If the mounts are bad, it can move around A LOT

Others here have WAY more experience than me, but I just recently went through the typical "sloppy 915" troubleshooting on my dad's '86

-shifter bushings
-coupler adjustment
-coupler (SRP)

Each one gave a bit of an improvement, but we still had the same problem: Intermittantly, 2nd gear would feel completely blocked. Also, the shifter would move when we accelerated or decelerated, and the clutch would judder on engagement.

Last weekend I put in new transmission mounts, and it fixed everything

They are $25 each and take 30 minutes to change, and it's detailed in Wayne's 101 projects book.

At the very least, get under the car to check them out.

Are you sure you have adjusted the shifter coupler correcty. Since you had it all removed and new bushings etc etc - this can be very tricky to get right. You cannot just install and tight the bolt . there is a procedure - its posted on this site.

If done wrong you may be selecting the wrong gear - like 3rd for 1st , etc. ( Ask me how I know!)

Frankly i would not spend any more $ on parts until you figure out what the problem is.

Your last post you are still decribing something like a "lost gear" ..... if you are in 3rd and not 1st, what happens when you disengage the clutch - does you engine rev high ? does sound like it has power etc ?

Have you tried starting in second and getting up to speed - does it have power onve you got in the normal 2nd gear range ?


Good luck
earl

I don't think he can find 2nd... by his description 1 and 2 behave more like 3 and 4, yet reverse is OK. As I posted previously, if you want to rule out a coupler misadjust just disconnect it and put it into 1st gear by hand in the tunnel. If you turn the coupler full counterclockwise and push it in you should be in 1st. If you cannot do this, or it still bogs down the engine, you may have a tranny problem. Before you drop your motor and tranny you can unbolt the inspection plate on the side of the tranny to see if the dongle is located in the internal shift rods properly.