Z1 mark is here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212191184.jpg

Rotor mark for #1 is here.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212191240.jpg


You might want to redo the valve adjustment...

He's like I dunno 10-12 deg advanced? I'd reinstall the distributor. No wonder the pistons were slapping around in the cylinders. He probably has it fixed by now and is terrorizing the countryside in his ultralight 3.2, lol

I'd be surprised if pulling the dizzy is necessary. I bet if he aligns the crank on the LH mark, the rotor will line up on #1 just fine.

you are saying the dizzy goes counterclockwise? I thought this was a 3.2 car. It's an sc?

Rusnak,

It is a 3.2L

Yes it is an 85 3.2.

Well I went ahead and pulled the dist, and first off it was really loose. I mean I read the horror threads of having to put a hammer under there and all kinds of stuff. I loosened the bolt gave it a tug and out it came.

Capt Carrera, my first pics might have been confusing but where you see the rotor with your arrow is when the lower pulley is on the TDC mark.

So, I set the lower pulley at the Z1 mark (the same that Capt Carrera is pointing to) and pulled the dist. I cleaned a lot of gunk out of the dist and put it back in. Now I can only get the dist back in two ways and I have pictures of both. One has the rotor slightly to the left of the dist notch and very close. And the other has the rotor slightly to the right of the dist notch way past the notch. For both installs I rotated the dist back a tooth and when it slides in let it turn itself forward towards the notch. Neither install has the rotor lined up perfectly with the notch.

And back to Capt Carrera's post, do I need to redo my valve adjustment now?

To the left

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212248964.jpg

To the right

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212248986.jpg

go with the left one and fire it up. do you have any radial play on the rotor shaft (bushing wear)? This is a good time to clean and lube the little advance mech arms. Where is the dust cover that goes under the rotor?

I had moved the dust cover but it is back on now. I'm headed out in a little while to fire it up. I'll have a report later this evening.

If you did your valve adjustment starting at Z1 (The LH mark of the two that are close to each other) you do not need to redo your valve adjustment.

But let's get back to that rotor not lining up. Do you have access to a dial indicator? If you do, I'd verify your static cam timing. That way you have a base line to work from. Just Put the dial indicator on intake valve #1, rotate the engine to the specified lift, and verify the Z1 mark is in the right place.

Capt C--I do not have a dial indicator, where do I get one?

If you want to buy one, find somewhere in your area that sells machinist tools... should not be hard to do in your area. Otherwise, got any machinist friends? You might ask David Bailey. I am sure he has one or more as he is an OLD machinist (sorry Dave!;)... I hate to speak for him though as far as whether he'd loan it to you. The other thing is that you are a little farther from us than a joy ride!

a dial indicator (with z block) is a great way to verify tdc, and good if you want to adjust your valves dead nuts accurately.

But would the pulley even go on the wrong way to the tune of more than a fraction of a degree off? I'm just sayin.....

to me, the top picture with the rotor to the left looks good. The rotor is firing zylinder 1 at tdc, is it not? Let's let pook get his car running so we can hear it again.

You can get a dial indicator and "Z" block from Pelican, Harbor Freight, or probably a local Sears.

But Rusnak has a point. Your top picture is pretty close. I think you have nothing to loose by giving it a try. Keep us posted.

Sorry for the delay...I got sidetracked by an oil leak. I thought it was just a leak from the timing chain oil line on the passenger side, I tried tightening the line but it didn't help. Closer exam looks like the leak is from the o-ring on the passenger timing cover, so I had to pop the cover off to get to the o-ring. As soon as I get it all buttoned up again I will let you guys know how it did.

Curioisity would have me willing to put up with a leak for a few minutes. I'd fire it up and let it leak. ;)

Well I started it, or should I say I tried to start it. No go. It won't even fire. It tries and tries but won't start.

I think my DME is boned. I'm sending it to Steve Wong for a rebuild. (I think it got FUBAR'd during the install). In the video where it is running and idling and running w/o the fan belt that was all on a borrowed DME. I had to give that one back and now I am sending mine off.

I'll post more when I get that back and can give it a go.

Thanks for all the help, I will keep you all posted.

Hey Ryan, did you get your DME back yet? I was hoping you would be able to make this next MTFR. Hope things are getting sorted for you.

DELETED because I missed a bunch of posts and did not want to be repeating anything.

Paul