An alternative anti roll bar setup
 

A year or so ago I got a set of custom valved Leda coilovers. The springs that came with the coilovers were somewhat stiffer than what is achievable with t-bars, so I knew I had to get new anti roll bars as well. Although there are many good ARB-sets available, all of them use the through the front tub/wheel well design, which I don't feel comfortable with. Therefore I designed a setup myself. The parts were available as a kit from Sellholm Tuning in Sweden. So all I had to do was weld up the tubes, make some brackets and fit it into the car. Well, it wasn't exactly that easy, and it took a while to complete, but here's the result.

Front setup, as seen from the front
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212430919.jpg

Front setup, as seen from the rear
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212430954.jpg

Rear setup
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1212430992.jpg

The rear brackets are a little too close to the ground, and I'm not entirely happy with the bearing solution. But hopefully that will be ironed out after a little running in period.

/Peter

why cant you use existing roll bars, like adjustable ones from elephant racing if your using stiffer coil overs? I plan to buy a coil over kit and new suspension down the road.

Why do you need stiffer bars at all if you have stiffer springs? The stiffer springs will reduce roll by themselves.

You can, but as I said I don't like the through the tub/wheel well setup where the front ARB is mounted in the sheet metal in the wheel well.

If you want the possibility to adjust the behavior of the car with the ARBs, they have to contribute noticeably to the roll stiffness of the car. Therefore; if you use stiff springs you need stiff ARBs.

/Peter

Yep, that design is similar to typical modern car swaybar endlinks. Attach at the strut & end of sway. I bet over time you'll really hear the Heim'd links vs. something that's a sealed unit.

Looks nice for the work though.

That is certainly a very sophisticated setup.

I like how the front bar actually will produce a variable rate depending on steering angle. Less effect at lower speeds. Not often seen, very slick.
And the use of blade arms means the stiffness adjustments won't affect the geometry. Very nice.

where did you source your components?

Thanks. There are some rubber shims available to seal the rod ends that I'll fit once I find a place to buy them. Hopefully that will extend the service life a little, but I reckon I have to change the rod ends every now and then.

Thanks, I sourced most of the parts from a company in Sweden called Sellholm Tuning. The brackets on the front coilover struts I had machined from aluminum, the front mounts were made from some flat bar, and the rear mounts were welded from some steel U profile.

/Peter

I don't see the cable connection to rotate the bladed arm.

Sherwood

I'm afraid I don't have one. I don't feel the need for that. Yet.

/Peter

Blade arms also mean infinite adjust ability instead of the 5-6 holes usually found... Nice work. I'm sure it is prohibitively expensive to ship to the US, but I'll check out the web site :)

-michael

hehehe always a fun problem when the web site is in a different language with lots of funny marks all over the letters ;)

-m

They are a little tricky to adjust. When the blades are on edge; turning them just a small angle results in a relatively large change in stiffness, and when they lay flat it is the opposite.

Funny marks? I don't see any funny marks :p

/Peter