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Clutch Pedal on the floor with tension.

After pulling the engine a while back, I have been continuing the process of putting everything back together.
When removing the engine, I only loosened the two nuts which hold the cable to the transmission, removed the cable from the main arm, and removed the smaller arm that is held on by the clip (sorry for mot using the technical terms).

When putting all of the pieces back on, I went to the pedals to check the tension on the clutch and the pedal was all the way to the floor.
If I would lift the pedal up and let it go, it will spring back to the floor like it is under tension.

I find this quite odd, as I did was remove the pieces and put them back on. I did not make any cable adjustments.

TIA, J

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Jeremy C.
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:49 PM
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Cable is disconnected up by the clutch pedal?
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:53 PM
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Well, that's how it works. There's a spring on the pedal cluster that pulls it to the floor, it's supposed to work that way. Put something behind the pedal to keep it all the way up, put all the pieces back on and connect everything. Remove the prop, and adjust per the manual. There's an interesting interaction between the helper spring and the pedal cluster spring when the clutch is depressed. Initially, the helper spring resists the clutch pedal being depressed, but as the helper spring rotates around it it begins to reduce the effort needed to continue to push in the clutch. Maybe I'm too easily entertained.

Mac
Old 04-21-2008, 04:12 PM
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I proped up the pedal, put the cable back on, removed the prop and still the pedal went to the floor. It is like the cable is too long, but that is impossible as all I did was take it off and tried to put it back on.
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Old 06-01-2008, 01:44 PM
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on a '78 you have to engage the horns of the clutch arm into TO bearing when putting trans + motor together

was that done?

can the clutch arm be moved by hand?
Old 06-01-2008, 02:10 PM
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sounds like the clutch cable is disconnected alright. But so is the pedal spring. Either that, or the rollpin is broken (doubtful).


Old 06-01-2008, 02:15 PM
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RWebb,
I was just back under the car and started to think the same thing.

I remeber when matting the engine to the trans it was difficult to get them together until I rotated the the clutch arm to match the TO bearing.
IT finally went together but am starting to think they went together wrong...

The reason I say this is because it sems the clutch lever is too far forward, thus making the appearance that the cable is too long.

When the pedal is on the floor, it seems the cable is the right lenght, but when the pedal is up, it seems too long.

Right now the clutch lever can not be moved by hand.
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Jeremy C.
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Old 06-01-2008, 02:21 PM
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Is it possible to mat the engine/trans together with out the horns and the TO bearing meeting?

Before i realized that the TO and horns had to match, the engine and trans weren't even close to matting, so when they finally did, I thought the TOB and the horns were together.
Is it still possible for the engine and trans to match with them still apart?
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Old 06-01-2008, 02:29 PM
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This may seem wierd, but did you load (rotate clockwise until it pops into position) the helper spring after installing the release lever on the shaft?

Last edited by jimbauman; 06-06-2008 at 06:37 AM..
Old 06-06-2008, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcc911 View Post
Is it possible to mat the engine/trans together with out the horns and the TO bearing meeting?
Yes. You must watch through the opening in the bell housing, as you push the engine and trans together, to be sure that the fork fingers engage the bearing.
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Old 06-06-2008, 06:34 AM
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Jim, Where were you a week ago!!!

You are exactly right, as monkying around with it last night, I just (by accident I might add) pulled the clutch lever back and I hear a snap, which was the spring loading.
I thought the lever was out of place, but I could not move it because it was bound by the helper spring.
What i didnt realize, until I reloaded it, was that it hade become unloaded.
I am glad that is doone and I think I adjusted the cable properly, but now I have a new question.

How can I be sure that I put the engine and trans backe together properly??
How do I know that the TO beraring and the Horns of are are matted correctly now that they are back ing the car.

Thanks Again
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Jeremy C.
Why's he calling me meat? I'm the one driving a Porsche. (Bull Durham)
----Nothing is far away in this car!---
-2001 996 Turbo
Old 06-06-2008, 06:35 AM
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Well, just the other day my release lever snapped in two right at the adjusting screw... so I had to replace it. Your symptoms mirrored mine exactly until I remembered - oh ya.. the spring!!

JB
Old 06-06-2008, 06:43 AM
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How can I be sure that I put the engine and trans back[] together properly??
- You really need to get yourself a Bentley manual.
- what exactly is the specific question here?

How do I know that the TO be[]aring and the Horns of are[horns of the TO bearing yoke??] are mated correctly now that they are back in[] the car.
- IF I have your query right, then you can probably just move the clutch TO arm from outside the trans. and see if it move a lot (like it is not connected), or if it FEELS like it is connected (wiggles a bit, but won't move or moves only with a lot of force past the wiggle room).

There is a window in the trans. case and you might be able to see thru it with a mirror but I doubt it. Mainly useful when trans & motor are mated but not in the car.
Old 06-06-2008, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcc911 View Post
How can I be sure that I put the engine and trans backe together properly??
How do I know that the TO beraring and the Horns of are are matted correctly now that they are back ing the car.

Thanks Again
With the car in gear, depress the clutch pedal and have someone push on the car. If it rolls easily you are good and the clutch is working properly. If the car can't be moved with the clutch depressed the transmission input shaft is still engaged... your clutch isn't releasing. There will also be a big difference in the resistance to pushing the pedal if your throwout fork isn't in the bearing. The clutch pressure plate taked a lot of leverage to release those fingersprings. The helper spring will take next to nothing in comparison. When my TO Bearing came off once I knew something was wrong because the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I would suspect if your TO fork isn't engaged properly you will experience the same thing... your clutch pedal won't come back up.

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Last edited by dentist90; 06-06-2008 at 02:45 PM..
Old 06-06-2008, 02:41 PM
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