Rear Window Install on 71 - Help

[t6dpilot]

I have searched here for a how to thread for the rear window install. I found a couple, but am still a little unclear as to the critical issue of how to work with the rope in the seal. Can anyone take me through this process or point me to a detailed thread? My big questions are what size and type of rope to use, where to place it in the seal (there look to be two channels on the inside of the seal - not sure which one), and how to finish the install (pulling the rope). I am sure this is doable by the inexperienced, but detail oriented - I just need a little clarification. Thanks.

[1303RS]

Scott,
I use a nylon rope about the diameter of a pencil or smaller, not too thick. Tuck the rope into the grove starting at the top. At the bottom the rope ends will over lap. I sprya windex or dry silicon on the rubber. Start with one side, while pulling out away from the glass and in the direction of choice, start pulling. go slow and pull out and in the direction left or right. Work around to about 1/2 way up the side of the window. Repeat this for the other side of the rope at the bootom of the glass. I would also get someone to help from the outside to hold the glass in place and hit on the glass where you are pulling to help seat the rubber. Do this open fisted and NO rings, watches. Once the bottom and lower sides are in place, return to the first side and continue up to the top center. stop. Pull other side now to finish install. Make sure window is centered on the body all four corners before starting. If some of the rubber does not pull throught with the rope you can use your fingers, screwdriver- carefully, to pull out the rubber. Becarful not to slip, rip the rubber. Go slow. It may take a couple of times to get it right. use lots of spray to lube rubber. Use a new rubber seal also. Hope this helps. Let us know how it goes. ask if you have more questions

[Cornpanzer]

Thats essentially it. Although I will disagree with the comment to hit on the glass. NEVER hit the glass. You shouldnt need to and if you happen to find a bit of grit or headliner clip, that glass will crack.

I use dishwashing soap as it dries up. Do not use silicone or grease tu lube the channel as it will not dry and could allow the glass to pop out.

You must have someone on teh outside to hold even pressure.

Have fun

[t6dpilot]

OK, I have putzed around with little car projects all day and also decided to tackle my rear window. Thanks to the few threads that discussed this project, I felt confident to start. I got the window removed just fine and cleaned up all the old dirt and seal material. I am here to tell ya tho'... that the rear window defrost wiring/window/seal setup is a pretty scary looking install! Holy crap.

So anyway, I continue. Once I got everything cleaned up, I installed the three "free" wires in the seal. That was a bi-ch to figure out and I did it without a window and trim installed. I sure as hell don't know how I am going to get them attached to the defroster spade connectors let alone, how I am going to get the three remaining wires into the seal AND connected to the window. WTF?! If you have not seen this setup before, it has 9 connections to spade connectors. Three wires are separate and are fairly straighforward to install, but have 6 spades to connect. Tough... Tougher yet is the three wires coming up to power the defroster - two red wires and one ground. Amazingly, they have to be inserted into the seal, through the rubber separator (?) and connected to the window. All while you are holding and trying to install the whole assembly. I have no friggin' idea how this is going to work out and could use some advice. Has anyone done this successfully outside of the factory that can help me out?

I can post pics if needed. OK, so here is my main question. I got the trim installed into the seal and tried the window next (correct order according to the threads). Either I was too tired or something, but I could not see how you are going to get that window installed after the trim is in (the trim was tough enough). Is that correct? Can someone with experience help me get that window hooked up and installed correctly? I understand about the rope procedure for final installation, but how the hell do you get the window in with the trim in? How about hooking up the wires too? It just looks like a lot to all come together for success... help help

[joefrantz]

Scott

You definitely install the window with the trim in place. When I did mine it took a lot of pressure (gentle but firm) from the outside to get the window/seal/trim combination to slip into the opening far enough to begin the string pulling bit. It's been a while, but I think I seated the lower edge first over the flange, and then applied pressure to the upper edge to get it to pop over the roof edge and onto the window flange. Then you can start pulling the cord, but I had to have constant pressure from the outside while pulling the cord from the inside. On my car, this was definitelly a two person job. THere was no way that the rope was going to work without a lot of outside pressure.

As for the wires, I think the best way is to connect the wires to the window spade terminals while it's 'on the bench'. Then you disassemble the three pronged plug and pass the wires through the grommet in the rear shelf from top to bottom as you set the window in place. I taped the wires to the under side of the window to
keep them out of the way as I lifted the window in place. Then, the second person untapes the wires and feeds them through the grommet while the first person lowers the window into position.
Sorry, I don't have any pics of the install process, but I do have a couple the wire arrangement.

Good luck and be patient -- It took me about 5 tries to acutally get this to work. It was much tougher than a windshield install.

Joe

[t6dpilot]

Thanks Joe for the description. OK, now I get it with respect to the wires - makes sense. Can I just disconnect them in the engine bay somewhere? I have to assume yes. I also understand how to get the window/seal/trim complete assembly installed onto the chassis with the rope technique. My big quandry at the moment is how to get to that point. I got the trim installed into the seal, but absolutely cannot get the darn window in. Granted, it was at the end of the day and I was pretty well whipped, not to mention that my fingers were pretty sore.

I just can't see how that window goes in with the trim installed - it looks too small to be workable. Can you give me a description of what you did to get the window in? Where did you start? What side did you work from - the inside like your last pic or the outside like the first pic? Wanna come over and help? The good news is that I found absolutely no rust in the lower corners.

[ossiblue]

Scott,

I just did the exact install three days ago, and had the exact same frustrations. Here's what I discovered:

First, use the advice given by Joe and remove the wiring for the defogger from the car and install it in the window. I kept my old seal handy to match the holes that need to be made for the passage of the wires--what a PITA!

Second, use a very generous amount of dish soap and a little water all around the sealing recess and the seal itself. Then, with the pressure hard but steady, you should be able to seat the window seal up against the lip. I used the help of a neighbor.

Third, I started at the top of the window when pulling out the cord, working slowly to one corner with pressure applied directly over the cord's position from the outside. Very slowly. The most difficult part was seating the top corners. When I worked past one corner, I went back to the center of the window, pulled on the other end of the cord, and worked toward the other corner.

Finally, I worked down each side alternately, around the bottom corners, and to the bottom middle. Job done.

The key was seating the seal close to the lip before roping, lubing the seal and seat well, and have a coordinated effort from a helpful neighbor.

Oh yeah, once the seal was set, I discovered one top corner of the trim had popped out. I had to then remove the whole window and start over.

[t6dpilot]

I re-read your first line and I see what you were refering to - installing the assembly into the car with the trim in place. Yes, I do know that. My problem is getting the seal on the window before I get to the installation step. Do you put the seal on the window first and then the trim? This is what would make sense to me. Or do you install the trim first and then the window into the seal? This is what I thought I read, but just does not seem to be workable. Thanks.

[joefrantz]

Scott

I think I've been misinterpreting your question about the seal. The trim goes into the seal after the seal is installed around the perimeter of the window. I started with the seam in the seal centered on the upper edge of the window and worked toward the upper corners. Once I had the two upper corners engaged, I streched the seal diagonally to engage and align the lower corners. Once the corners are in place you just have to futz the straight edges into the seal. It takes a lot of stretching to get those corners in, but they've got to be right or the seal won't conform to the window correctly.

Once the seal is seated all the way around, I then pressed the trim in, starting at the seam at top center and working around. The corners of the trim are again going to be the toughest part. I used a light coat of glycerin as a lube, and also worked under two quartz work lights to keep the seal warm and pliable. I don't think I could have done it without both the lube and the heat. I used a firm squeezing technique between my fingetips and the heal of my hand. You should be able to hear the trim snap in -- including at the corners.

Also, the three-pronged plug for the defrost wiring is usually tucked under or near the cd console on the left side of the engine compartment. Just trace the wires down from the shelf. The plug pops apart very easily leaving just the bullet connectors to pass throught the grommet.

Joe

[joefrantz]

One more item that I forgot to mention. With the seal on the window, lay the trim loosly on top of the seal and check the alignmen of the trim with the groove in the seal. You may have to (gently) adjust the radii of the trim corners to match the seal/window. The trim pieces bend very easily, and there is no guarantee that they are correct when you get them. Mine were even bent inward a bit to get them into the packing box.

Joe

[t6dpilot]

I am going to bump this thread looking for more help. I got the window seal and trim on successfully and the wires are threaded back down into the engine compartment. We went to install the window yesterday and I found that the three wires coming out of the seal were in the wrong place so had to pull the window out, carefully disconnect those wires, drill three holes in the corner of the seal, pull the wires through the correct side this time, and reconnect them! Jeeezus, what a PITA! The good news is that I was able to redo that all in about a half an hour - and I didn't have to take the trim and seal off to do it. Whew!

So, we make another attempt to put the window in and find that it won't pop into the recessed window area easily at all. First, I tried to seat the bottom, but the top would not go past the roof lip at the top of the window (it extends a little beyond the window edge). I tried this a couple of times and the trim popped out and the seal threatened to come off the window. I was doing this because I had heard to seat the bottom of the window first. So I backed the window out a bit and slid the top portion past that lip. All is good with placement, but now I can't get the darn window to seat into the recessed portion of the window area. I don't want to push too hard and pressure the seal outward so the trim pops out, not to mention breaking the window. The window just does not want to seat into this recessed area.

I need moral support and voices of experience. Can anyone help me with this final step? The rope is in and ready to go, it just seems as if it is sitting on top of the chassis and won't settle into the recessed area. I called a shop for help, but they are booked for over a week and don't want to wait. Got a trip coming up...

[joefrantz]

Scott --

Welcome to the next level of frustration. I did this last winter and I can still feel the pain in my hands. I had the same experience trying to seat the window. Beleive it or not, it will fit into the recess. I tried seating the top first and the bottom. After several attempts at each, I had the best results placing the top edge first.

Set the window against the vent slots with the outer most lip of the seal folded upwards against the roof. Set the lower edge down , and make sure that the window is centered left to right in (on) the opening. Simultaneously push forward, and press downward on the lower edge , using the heal of your hand on the outer edge of the seal -- not on the trim it will bend easily with hand presssure.

The window will not pop into the recess. Your hand pressure needs to be sufficient to press the roped flap into contact with the inner flange, at the center of the lower edge. At that point, the rope puller starts the usual center-out pull on each side. You need to follow the rope pull with your hand pressure directly over it. The window will draw into the opening as the rope is pulled, but it won't be stable until you've gotten around the lower corners by about 4-5 inches. I had mine pop back out every time I stopped before rounding the corners with the rope pull.

A couple of other suggestions. Make sure the seal is warm and pliable. I worked under a pair of quartz shop lights that kept the seal very soft.

I lubed the seal, the flange, and the outer edge of the window opening with a light coat of glycerine. Glycerine is very slippery, but water soluable. It's as slippery as oil, but dries up once everthing is in place.

Make sure that the trim is completely seated in the seal. It should actually click into place as the little hook engages. I never had any problems with the trim popping loose as I pressed the window in, so yours may not be completely seated.

Above all -- be patient and good luck. This process took me about 10 tries to work out. The winshield was a snap in comparison.

Joe