Is this a timecert or case saver?

[Tom '74 911]

Hello -
The engine to transmission stud that goes through the starter has pulled out of my engine case. This is a photo of the other upper stud hole in the engine case where the trans. mounts - obviously been fixed before. Which is this - timecert or case saver? I'm assuming, after doing some reading and searching here, that casesavers are the way to go to fix the pulled out stud??

Thanks,
Tom

[cgarr]

It looks good, I would just leave it. You don't get the temperature changes so much in that area like you do with head studs.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by cgarr

It looks good, I would just leave it. You don't get the temperature changes so much in that area like you do with head studs.

I should've been more clear in my post - You're right - the photos are of the good side! It's the other side that pulled (I didn't include photos of that). I was just wondering what was previously used to repair the (now) good side.

Thanks,
Tom

[cgarr]

If you have the old insert? if its a 14x2.0mm then its a casesaver, if its a finer thread its something else.

[Fast Corners]

From your photo, it appears to be a case saver.

Having installed both, the case saver is the way to go.

If you are going to install one I would recommend using a squaring jig so that you drill out the existing hole as perpendicular to the mounting face as possible. If you are not going to go that route, buy a number of drill bits that increase in size by 1/32 or 1/16 inch (Max) increments up to the size you will need for the case saver.

By stepping up the sizes of the drill bits you should have more control over drilling the oversized hole without "wandering". Go slow and use lots of lubricating oil...That goes for all drilling and tapping operations...LOL

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by cgarr

If you have the old insert? if its a 14x2.0mm then its a casesaver, if its a finer thread its something else.

Sorry, I didn't get a good night sleep last night, so I'm failing to provide the right info. The stud that pulled out did not have a helicoil, timecert or case saver installed. It was threaded directly into the case and that is what failed.

Thanks,
Tom

[Wayne 962]

Looks like a good case-saver to me...

-Wayne

[mca]

What is the difference b/t a time-sert and a case saver?

I have time-serts on the exhaust side of my heads ... they look very similar to that pic?

[notmytarga]

Case savers have more meat, require a larger bore to place them, and have course external threads. The location that your pictures show had been 'certed' on both of the engines I own. My machinist believes the factory did that location on magnesium cases. Why that stud and no others? I think it would be the location most likely to get overtorqued because it is accessible, it's on the topside where it holds more weight and as I recall that is the location where a bolt goes into the case from the transaxel - more susceptable to crossthreading.

To fix the side that pulled - use either a casesaver or timecert depending on availability/cost.

BTW - I wouldn't remove a solid timecert to place a casesaver. Either should work well if competently placed. My machinist used timecerts for my headstuds - I didn't quibble with his experience. A different machinist that does VW work uses timecerts because they allow for more material when enlarging spigots for those bigbore kits.

[Nine9six]

Originally Posted by Fast Corners

From your photo, it appears to be a case saver.

Having installed both, the case saver is the way to go.

If you are going to install one I would recommend using a squaring jig so that you drill out the existing hole as perpendicular to the mounting face as possible. If you are not going to go that route, buy a number of drill bits that increase in size by 1/32 or 1/16 inch (Max) increments up to the size you will need for the case saver.

By stepping up the sizes of the drill bits you should have more control over drilling the oversized hole without "wandering". Go slow and use lots of lubricating oil...That goes for all drilling and tapping operations...LOL

While I agree totally with the first portion of your first statement, I totally disagree with your secondary rationale of 1/32 - 1/16 drill increment steps. By doing this, all you accopmlish is increasied opportunity for drilling the holes out of perpendicularity with the face.

Even if you have hands as steady as a surgeon, you will still need eyes capable of detecting out of perpendicularity by no more than .005". Why not do the job correctly the first time by using a squaring jig and save yourself a bunch of time, money, and headache by effing it up?