That's a neat idea, cheap and simple:eek:

Your making good progress Trog and ahead of me,I made a big mistake this week by not thinking where to put my CHT sensor and had to take the ITBs and engine shroud off last night,fortunately my loom is long enough as I have mounted everything under the drivers seat.
I still have to pull the loom back out this weekend to feed all my live wires through but im getting there and actually enjoying this project.

I look forward to your post of first start up of the engine ,should be exciting.

Trog
Just a comment on your catch tank. I started off with a similar arangement using a 250mL plastic container, located at the right forward area of the engine bay. All was OK untill doing laps at the track. With the oil level half way between the low/high markings, I had about 30 to 60mL (1 to 2 oz) entering the catch tank per lap. Assume the oil was surging up the breather pipe under heavy breaking. The factory cone restrictor was installed in the breather hose at point of the hose connecting to the main oil tank.

Final solution was locating the catch tank at a level as high as possible (now mounted central to the air cleaners) and used a 8mm drain hose from the bottom of the catch tank into the left side of the engine breather plate. With the 3.2 there is (was) a temperature sensor for the engine compartment heater fan than can be removed (if no longer used) and utilise that point as the drain entry back to the engine.

The final aluminium, one liter catch tank does include baffelling up at the breather connection.

Don't under estimate the oil surge, or the air volume that passes the breather. Believe me it can make a messy engine bay, not to dismiss the traces of oil being left on the track.

Disregard all the above if you do not partake in spirited driving.

Paul

Where did you finally mount the engine temp sensor? I understand that some have elected to mount the probe on the timing chain cover.

Duly noted.

My ECU suppliers told me not to try and use an oil temp sensor and use the heads,I have machined an ally bracket and tapped into a fin on cylinder three then smeared some heat conductive putting around the joint.
I have my SSIS off now ready to weld in Lambda sensor bosses ,all good fun ;)

Trog:
With your wasted spark, what coil(s) are you using?
Paul

Paul:

Electromotive #33600

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223734888.jpg

Hi there,

New to this forum but want to share a pic of my Ferrari setup. I used denso motorcycle coil on plugs and run it all with a Haltech ECU which I prefer to the Electromotive. I've got 350 hrs on this rebuild and EFI conversion so far and just busted my diff which brought me over here to play with you guys.

I have a '73 911s track car I go drive every time I start kidding myself the 308 is actually fast.

cheers all!




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223735087.jpg

and the motorcycle throttle body conversion I'm working on.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223735305.jpg

Progress Report #10
 

I’ve taken advantage of the long week-end we’re enjoying here in Canada to make some good progress.

Firstly, I’ve finished the wiring. All signals are run and terminated. All that remains is a little tidying up, and zap-straps.

Some areas to take caution:

1- If you’re planning to install the TECgt under the drivers seat, the original harness may be in the way. I built a back-plane for the components and raised it about an inch above the floor. It was a simple matter to locate the old harness under the backplane well out of the way of the new wiring.

2- Protect the crank sensor wire. It’s not armoured and can get damaged fairly easily.

3- The fuel return line presents a challenge. I could have cut the factory line and installed a barbed fitting, but a more elegant solution was at hand. I removed the over-priced small line that connects to the fuel dampener and fastened it to the forward fastener that normally supports the cruise control motor. The factory fuel connector is a barb-fitting, which should work out very nicely.

4- The PMO ITB’s use the original barrel nuts that secured the original intake manifold. You’ll find that the barrel nuts wont fit on two runners on each side. A conventional nut will have to be used in those locations.

5- The Clewett cam-sensor requires a switched-12VDC supply. The TECgt cable that connect to the cam-sensor only has two-wires. Be sure to run a third wire in this bundle before you pull the signal cable. Don’t forget to install the 1k-Ohm pull-up resistor when you fabricate the harness.

6- I zap-strapped my oil-catch-tank into place, but I’m not happy with the installation. I plan to fabricate a new bracket and mount it properly

7- You need to decide where you plan to mount the MAP sensor and the vacuum manifold. It’s suggested that they be as close to each other as possible. I purchased the Clewett coil-pack mounting plate, which makes a great platform to locate the manifold and MAP sensor. I made a plate out of aluminium and sandwiched it between the DFU plate and the 4 - support legs. I also fabricated a bracket to support the pressure regulator and mounted it to this same location.

8- It’s a good idea put a barrier over the ITB’s. That last thing you want to do now is to drop a fastener down the intake.

Next week, I’ll fabricate the fuel lines, calibrate the throttle linkages, install the vacuum lines and test the sensors again. We’re getting closer to firing it up.

Stay tuned.


TECgt under the drivers seat:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223933547.jpg

Cam Sensor:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223933577.jpg


Crank Sensor:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223933609.jpg


Fuel return line:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223933638.jpg

DFU coil-pack and MAP / Vacuum manifold bracket:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223933674.jpg


ITB’s:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223933711.jpg

Nice job Trog,ive struggled all night thinking of a way to wire my injectors in to look neat and have just spotted your 6 way connector.
Cheers thats what im now going to do :) this thread has been really usefull to me keep it up

Very nice Trog. Thankyou for the taking the time to relay this much info, along with the great photos. You seem to have a well organized approach. Can't wait to hear how it all comes together.

Actually, I'm not happy with the 6-way connector. It's hard to assemble, and I'm not confident that I have continuity on all 6-pins. I plan to replace this connector with a 4-way. The power is common anyway, so I don't really need 6-separate pins.

I just finished my dummy test rig tonight and went to load the start up map only to find my laptop serial cable doesnt fit,talk about frustrating :)
I have never wired anything before in my life and at least the fuel pump whirred into life so that was a start
Where have you wired your tacho lead to ?
http://photos-304.ll.facebook.com/ph...523858_853.jpg

I don't think we have the same tach arrangement. Mine wires to the DME harness, where I tied it into pin #21.

Not sure how the '83 tach works.

Are those Marks & sparks socks?

T...

Playboy Bunny socks ,Christmas present off my mom I knew they would come in handy for something one day :D
http://photos-304.ll.facebook.com/ph...44411_4598.jpg

That's hilarious. All I got was a lump of coal.

Looks very clean, luckydynes. How big are those ITB's and what are the off of?

One issue that has kept me from checking more into motorcycle ITB's is that they are (naturally) sold by application and not by size.


Clean install, Trog. I'm enjoying following your progress. Are you going to dyno the car for setup?

subscribed

Most of the set-up will be done on the street, but I'll eventually get to the dyno just to see what if any HP gains I've made.

I forgot to ask, are you planning to run sequential of phased injection?

actually I was going to ask you that as well,semi sequential (fires two at a atime) the ecu guy who sent the start up map says it reduces the load on each driver and uses it where possible.

Injector 1 FUEL1 B4 brown black 1st firing (Cyl1)
Injector 2 FUEL2 C3 brown yellow 2rd firing (Cyl6)
Injector 3 FUEL3 C6 brown red 3rd firing (Cyl2)
Injector 4 FUEL4 C2 brown orange 4th firing (Cyl4)
Injector 5 FUEL5 B5 brown green 5th firing (Cyl3)
Injector 6 FUEL6 B3 brown violet 6th firing (Cyl5)

What about you ?

I'm running full sequential, hence the cam-sensor.

Substantial Completion
 

I'm pleased to report that I've reached substantial completion. All the wiring is done, the fuel lines are complete (Pro-Lite 350), and the vacuum lines are pulled.

All I need to do is load in a start-up bin-file and balance the ITB's. That will have to wait till next weekend. With hope, it will start-up without any grief.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224376674.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224376852.jpg

Now THAT is an absolute work of art engine bay. Job well done.

Trog
Congratulations on your progress.
A couple of points.

a) How did you go with finding suitable spanner for the inner nut no #4 (manifold to head)?

b) Instead of the fuel lines doing a loop around both sides, split the supply line with a "T" and then another "T" on the return prior to the regulator. Three reasons to support the two parallel paths.
1) The original Porsche installation was done in this manner,
2) I know of some WRX guys (WRX having a similar left and right side cylinders) who initially used the one loop and found that the cylinder(s) at the end of the supply were running lean, causing engine damage. By splitting the supply line and feeding both sides evenly, and with a similar lengths of line between the fuel rails to the return"T", then to regulator , etc. the problem was solved.
3) A mechanic with our V8 super cars has advised that they used the two parallel paths (one per bank) for there fuel lines.

Maybe there are some others that could make comment.

Paul

wow neat job Trog well done ;)
couldnt get mine going yesterday ecu kept showing ofline so lots of head scratching to be done today :(

Paul,

a: I used a regular nut. Because of the taper on the throttle body manifold, the only way to thread the nut is to elevate the manifold and start threading the nut. As you advance the nut, slowly lower the manifold until it mates with the head. Then it’s a simple manner of tightening the nut with an open ended spanner.
b: Noted. If I detect a lean condition, I'll reconfigure the fuel lines as suggested. However at this time, I plan to proceed with "Clewetts" recommendations (ie: looped fuel distribution) as a base-line.

T...

What type of serial cable are you using?

I dont think its the cable ,i cant get a switched live to the ecu even though I have wired it as this diagramhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1224430313.jpg

It’s important that your switched 12-VDC is “On” both during cranking and running. Otherwise, the engine will not fire-up.

dude!!!

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!! :):)

Like a kid at Christmas, I couldn't wait to play with my new toy. So I double checked everything, loaded the Bin-file provided by "Clewett" and turned the key.

Half an engine rev, and she sprung to life.

I'm pleased.

Now it's time to learn a thing or two about tuning.

Stay tuned.

Trog

Trog..

Great thread and beautifully detailed install...

Quick question, you're using the Tech-lll R with coil packs, In the pic I see you're original coil still in place.. just sitting there disconnected or???


Paul

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the kind words.

I'm using the TECgt.

The original coil is abandoned. I've since removed it from the engine bay.

Rgs,

T...

Trog..

Yes, what I thought & was just curious. I have a similar project which will use TWM 46mm throttle boddies.

I'm still gathering parts and info and will find your thread most helpful I'm sure. Have not been following the world of ECUs lately so wondering what made you choose TECgt over
TEC-lll? Was/is TEC-lll discontinued or is the gt just that much better?

Thanks again,

Paul

I purchased the ITB set-up as a kit from "Clewett Engineering". Personally, I don’t have enough knowledge of what’s out-there to make an educated decision. So in times like this, I defer to the experience of others.

So far, no regrets.

Rgs,

T...

Paul, I just installed the TecGt in the turbo and am very pleased. Very tunable and user friendly, and I believe cheaper than the 3r. IIRC, clewett said the 3r was better for twin plug application. Electro seems well past the issues that gave them a bad rap in past.

Troy, congrats!

Very nice! Glad to see it running. Let us know how the throttle response is compared to the standard intake.