My PMO ITB Project

[Porsche_monkey]

Nice. Is that a standard DIN rail the terminals are mounted on? It's looks different than normal. And where did you get those fuseholders?

[911-32]

Originally Posted by 911st

Outstanding project! Wish I was up to it for my car.

Just a thought. I know a sophisticated aftermarket EFI offers some advantages but why not consider using the stock Motronics w a Vac sensing conversion from Prototec instead. Would save a lot of effort getting alternate sensors in place, wiring and such?

Sorry to hijack, Google doesn't find Prototec for me. Any contact details?

How does this vac sensing device allow Motronic to run ITBs?

Thanks

[911st]

Sorry wrong name, that is a tuner in Florida I think.

See: http://www.geocities.com/protomotive/

[Trog]

Originally Posted by Porsche_monkey

Nice. Is that a standard DIN rail the terminals are mounted on? It's looks different than normal. And where did you get those fuseholders?

The terminals and terminal rail are made by Weidmuller. They are "D" rail style.

The fuse holders come with the TECgt.

[luvndasun]

Hi Trog,
Nice work. Does the TECgt wiring harness replace the stock harness that attaches to the back of the alternator or does it attach to it?

Also with the manifold for the map sensor, did you remove the stock nuts and then install the standoffs, or do the standoffs get tightened down on top of the stock nut.

Thanks,
Jamie

[Trog]

Originally Posted by luvndasun

Hi Trog,
Nice work. Does the TECgt wiring harness replace the stock harness that attaches to the back of the alternator or does it attach to it?

Also with the manifold for the map sensor, did you remove the stock nuts and then install the standoffs, or do the standoffs get tightened down on top of the stock nut.

Thanks,
Jamie

The TECgt comes with its own harness, however the alternator wiring remains unchanged.

The map sensor standoffs replace the stock nuts. In addition, I have recently acquired a coil-pack mounting plate with the same stand-off arrangement. I'll post photo's once I have that installed.

Rgs,

T...

[Porsche_monkey]

Originally Posted by Trog

The terminals and terminal rail are made by Weidmuller. They are "D" rail style.

I would have use aluminum rail to save weight.

[MrPerkles]

Trog
where are you routing the loom into the engine bay ? Nice work btw

[Trog]

Originally Posted by MrPerkles

Trog
where are you routing the loom into the engine bay ? Nice work btw

The TECgt will be located under the drivers seat. The loom will follow the same route as the factory harness. I'll have to drill a new hole c/w grommet where the harness penetrates the firewall. As I've removed my AC hoses, there's a nice penetration just behind the cruise-control motor where the loom will enter the engine bay. From there, the conductors will fan-out to their various components.

I'll have to find some robust material to protect the loom where it routes under the vehicle. I'm thinking of using an old bike inner tube.

Should work out very nicely. Pics to follow.

[scarceller]

Trog,

Very nice setup, Subscribed.

[luvndasun]

Hi Trog - Are all of the Map Sensor Tube fittings on the intake manifolds oriented at right angles to the centerline of the engine? Does that make sense? If I go the EFI route, I will have to drill and tap my intake manifolds and install pipe to tube fittings. I wanted to see if there were any throttle linkage interference issues with the MAP Sensor tubing.
Thanks!

[Trog]

Originally Posted by luvndasun

Hi Trog - Are all of the Map Sensor Tube fittings on the intake manifolds oriented at right angles to the centerline of the engine? Does that make sense? If I go the EFI route, I will have to drill and tap my intake manifolds and install pipe to tube fittings. I wanted to see if there were any throttle linkage interference issues with the MAP Sensor tubing.
Thanks!

Yes, they are all at right angles to the engine centerline. The Map sensor tubing is flexible so there are really no interference issues with the throttle linkage.

Rgs,

T...

[Trog]

Don’t you hate it when you screw-up!

First, sorry for the delay in reporting, I’ve been busy sorting out the wiring harness and component layout. I’ll report on the electrics soon, but first I need to warn you about a potential clash. The crank sensor bracket that mounts on the distributor stud may clash with the engine mount console. During the new crank pulley install, check to see if the crank sensor bracket seats properly. If it clashes with the console mount, you’ll have to remove some material. In my case, I cut off about ½” before the sensor bracket would seat properly. Doing this during the crank pulley installation will save you the heartache of having to dismantle the engine mounts again.

[MrPerkles]

I put my trigger wheel on the outside and made a bracket for that very reason,I have looked through your thread Trog where are you putting your cold start sensor ?

[Trog]

Originally Posted by MrPerkles

I put my trigger wheel on the outside and made a bracket for that very reason,I have looked through your thread Trog where are you putting your cold start sensor ?

I'll be using the original CHTS located at Cyl #3. It's compatible with the TECgt.

[Dennis Kalma]

Very interesting thread, quite keen to follow in your footsteps when I get that far on my project (long time from now.....unfortunately).

I see there is some sort of plug in the distributor shaft hole, is that something you made up or is it something that came from Clewett?

Thanks

Dennis

[shbop]

. I got the same one with my Clewett kit.

[Trog]

Originally Posted by Dennis Kalma

Very interesting thread, quite keen to follow in your footsteps when I get that far on my project (long time from now.....unfortunately).

I see there is some sort of plug in the distributor shaft hole, is that something you made up or is it something that came from Clewett?

Thanks

Dennis

It's a "Clewett" part.

[Trog]

Now that I’ve got the crank sensor-mounting bracket sorted out, it’s time to re-focus on the wiring. As reported earlier, I’ve decided to locate the TECgt controller under the driver’s seat where the Motronic used to be. I soon discovered a problem with this decision….. the wiring harness that comes with the TECgt is only 6-feet long. Too short to reach the various sensors in the engine bay. I had some choices:

1- Order a new harness with longer leads
2- Relocate the TECgt closer to the engine bay
3- Spice an extension into each conductor

I went with door #3.

It took only 3 hours to splice a 3-foot extension into each conductor. I located the splice into the center section of each conductor in order to retain the original color code at each end. I then heat-shrunk each pair and triad, and then installed an overall heat shrink sleeve. Note that the crank sensor itself has a fairly long lead, there’s no need to extend this cable from the TECgt.

I divided the harness into 3-sections. The first was the wire bundle for the new coil-pack. I ran this harness along the rear seat, and exited the firewall on the passenger side. This cable includes 3-conductors and an overall shield. I elected to replace this cable with a longer cable of a similar design (available at most good electrical component shops)

The second harness included signals for the injectors, TPS, CHTS, MAP, MAT and crank sensor. This harness exits the firewall on the driver’s side.

The third harness only included the cable for the cam-sensor. This signal didn’t require extension as the cam sensor is fairly close to the firewall.

As long as you label your signals, keep things neat, and be patient…. There’s really nothing difficult about the wiring. This weekend, I’ll be installing all the various wire connectors. Then all that remains is fabbing the fuel lines, sorting out the linkages, calibrating and sorting out the software.

One last item, if you do plan to locate your TECgt under the drivers seat, do yourself a favour and order a wiring harness with 9-foot leads.

[Trog]

By the time I get home from work, it’s much too dark to get into any serious wiring, so that will have to wait for the weekend. In the interim, I figured I’d fab-up an oil-catch-can. The PCV loop that comes with the ITB system is pretty hokey, plus it requires running with the air filters at all times. An oil-catch-can is just the ticket for this installation. One water bottle, a couple of grommets and a small air filter is all that’s needed. Location will have to wait until the ITB’s are mounted, but I figure I’ll mount it pretty close to the oil tank.