Duck Tail Cut-N-Paste?

[opticalfuel]

Need some advise.

See below an illustration of where i plan to cut the ducktail portion from a 'broken' core.

I don't trust the ducktail to remain fixed if I mount it after repair, so I am attempting to cut away the ducktail portion and glass it straight onto a perfect metal deckld (have).

I have tested the fit of the FG decklid (ducktail) and it's not good. It is far from a good fit.

The metal one is pretty close. Need some tweaking here an there, but basically a perfect match.

I am going to place all pictures as I proceed to convert the duck tail here:

[Rich76_911s]

I don't know if this thread will help or not, but it is a writeup of how someone else did it:

bb80sc/TRE/AutoInno project update

I'd like to do this too.

Rich

[Zeke]

Is it real or a repro-duck-shun ? A Poll
bb80sc/TRE/AutoInno project update
Read those. The top one might show something of interest and the second one tells how to do it.

"Just trying to help."

[opticalfuel]

Thanks Milt. Truce? I was mixed up. My fault. I should have done more math on that deal.

[Zeke]

NO problem. You have a lot of work to do there. I'll help with suggestions as I used to be in the fiberglass business. Kevin is a master and can offer up a lot as well. I saw your comments on his thread.

[opticalfuel]

Ok. So far my repair /fab strategy will be:

1. Carefully separate the top and lower half of the duck FG tail, keeping the left vertical area as stable as possible. It's busted, but I can feather it back together on the metal decklid with a little patience and care.

2. Prepare the stock lid: strip the 2" area on the perimeter and cut away the lower portion (make a rounded rectangle basically where the 'ducktail' will sit on top of...

3. set up an good prefit of the duck to the metal and make sure it basically fits right.

4. mix up a good supply of short strand fiberglass bonding material

5. Spread it around the perimeter of the metal tail, apply the duck FG portion and begin clamping it in place, adjusting and fitting as I go.

6. Wait for the inital bond to cure 24 hours

7. inspect, trim and fine tune the FG bond, and make an inital fit test on the car.

8 Take note of any adjustments that need to be addressed... then add filler / bonding FG to finish off the seams etc.

9. Complete the rest of the preparation for final refinishing as normal (spot filler/blocksand/primer/block/primer)

Sound about right?

The hard part is going to be doing it, without screwing it up.

[Zeke]

You gonna prepare the metal by grinding with coarse grit? That's the way. And, I'd find a way to make sure your lid isn't tweaked in any way before the mounting process because the bonding will hold the lid crooked more so than a lid by itself (which flexes quite a bit). To do this, I'd mount the lid w/o the gas prop installed and see how it lays down on the stops. If it doesn't hit both stops exactly at the same time, tweak the lid until it does. Then, you might make a quick x template out of cardboard to check things just before mixing up the goo.

You choice of bonding agents is good enough, but you can buy panel bonder at the auto paint store. Comes right out of the tube mixed. I think there are some kits now that don't require an expensive gun that looks like a super duper caulking gun, but I don't see one where I look at the moment.

Read this page: http://www.autobodysupply.net/category-s/79.h
Slow set is good. The kitty hair stuff can get away from you and set up too quickly. Just my .02.

[opticalfuel]

Ok... I have some stuff called: MAR-GLASS

Is that stuff ok?

Looks like from reading the label it's basically like using bondo, only it has FG strands in it.

It'll probably harden faster if it's really warm, so I'll do it in the early morning, proabably Saturday.

I need to do all the prep you mentioned first anyways.

Questions:

1. Other than athstetics (looks) is there a good reason why I need to cut out the metal rectangle form the existing decklid? Is there some other reason than it just appearing to be more 'factory'?

It seems like if I leave that alone, it'll be faster, and less likely to warp. Thoughts?

2. I just last night prepared the stock lid, and mounted it without the lift shock... to check the fit. It seems to sit a bit low, but straight. I have more work to do on that... but I want to post pics on that in a few hours, so you can check out the fit. It looks to be fairly close.

Is there normally something between the hinge and the mount surface of the decklid? (like shims or the A/C system. Putting another way: If it seems to sit low, is that because it should normally be sitting higher? (and I have to place some thing in the gap between the hinge and the lid?)

That enough questions for now.

I am going to sand down the perimeter of the lid (2" border and middle area)... and report back with a few images... be back later with that...

[Zeke]

You can raise the height of the lid at the rear window by inserting washers as needed between the the lower bolt and hinge arm. Conversely, you can lower the lid by putting washers in at the upper bolt. Obviously, the lower part of the lid to body is adjusted by the rubber bumps which screw in and out. Then you adjust the lock to you final height.

On the Mar Glass, I'd mix up a small batch to a particular color and time the set at your shop temp. That way, you'll know how much working time you have.

I've been reading on other forums like the Mustang forum, the Z- car forum and a hot rod forum about people bonding FG parts to metal. Most don't like the prospects that well even using an epoxy bonder specifically formulated for FG to metal. But KevinP73 here has done this often. YMMV.

[opticalfuel]

Good idea on the glass... I will mix it up tonight (a bit) then time it... and tomorrow morning same thing, and see if it changes at all. then I'll not only know TTL, but whether temp makes a big diff.

It's probably about 100 deg in my garage right now. Pretty hot to do anything.

Even my son's soccer practice got called off.

I posted a few new pictures above, if you totally refresh the post... (probably need to start a new browser, and clear cash to be sure) Flash is pretty sticky. It sometimes is hard to refresh.

I just took photos showing the basic gaps. I think I in the right zone. I need to fix some trouble areas on the body. Looks like the top corners are just not straight enough. (curve down too much.)

Also the gaps at the bottom seem to flare outward (body side again) and could be straightened. It's just a question of how anal I want to be, but it'll look better if I fix it now.

[opticalfuel]

What are the pros/cons of cutting a large Rectangle of metal out of the stock lid?

[opticalfuel]

BUMP

New pictures in second reply... Post... see progress made.

[billybek]

Man, that photo carousel (did I spell that right?) makes me dizzy as hell....
Cool project though!

[opticalfuel]

Originally Posted by billybek

Man, that photo carousel (did I spell that right?) makes me dizzy as hell....
Cool project though!

I can change the style... check it out in a few minutes.

Better?

[billybek]

Much!!
It was a weird sensation, kind of like being car sick....
Maybe I am just getting old?!!!!

[opticalfuel]

Originally Posted by billybek

Much!!
It was a weird sensation, kind of like being car sick....
Maybe I am just getting old?!!!!

Na.... My wife is the same way... it's a visual preference thing. She doesn't care for that style too much either.

Enjoy.

I am off to repair the ducktail portion and shore up the sides. I am going to try to apply some good anchors to the side portions, so it can mount to the decklid frame more securely.

I'll post pictures as I go.

[opticalfuel]

How'd like me now....

Ducktail skin repair is setting... Carbon fiber reinforcement in place...

[opticalfuel]

See new fabrication from this weekend... almost ready to paste...

cut part done.

[Rich76_911s]

How did this ever turn out?

[opticalfuel]

I will post new pictures very shortly!!!

Short answer... Very nice.