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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Fozen gas lines
I've got 1 gas line that runs just behind the accumulator to a metal line that runs behind the air box that is preventing me from a complete drop of my motor. It seems like disconnecting near the hardline behind the airbox would be easiest. It's soaking right now, but I can't get it to budge and done want to break and hard lines.
Any tips? On the hose end it looks like I can get a thin wrench on 2 flat spots to sort of hold that side. Todd
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Bump due to holiday....
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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Disconnect is usually done where the metal line meets the rubber line below/behind the Accumulator.
You'll need 2 wrenches; one for the flat spots and one for the cap nut. Soak the threads with penetrating oil and use the 2 wrenches scissor-action. The connection can be tough to open, patience and penetrating oil.
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Use flare wrench's.
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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Flare wrench will work on the cap nut but will not work on the flat-spots of the male connector.
The cap nut is not the problem but the smaller diameter of the male connectors is. One has to be careful not to round off the 2 flat spots.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD! 1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats. ![]() Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ". ![]() |
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So, I'm really not making any progress with this and it's holding up my whole drop.
Stupid question, but does the male connector turn into the cap nut, or the other way around? I can't see well enough to tell if the nut really turns or not (so should I be turning the nut holding the male connector still, or other way around). Heat would obviously not be a good idea. Penetrating oil doesn't seem to be doing the trick. Todd
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Location: Marysville Wa.
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the nut turns. that particular connection is a dumb design for sure. you can disconnect it in two places. over by the accumulator or at the fuel line on the engine. 11mm open end and 17mm open end positioned in a V and squeeze hard. be sure the 11mm fits tight, no slop, or the fitting can round out. grind the side of the wrench down if necessary.
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Todd, I ran into almost the exact same issue. Guys, the challenge is one of leverage. Because of the location of the fitting -- plus the fact that the one section is two-sided and thus limits geometric options regarding wrench position to wrench position -- it's very difficult to get sufficient leverage on the wrenches to break the fitting loose. Here's what I did.
Brian
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Me:1 - Car:0
I'm happy to report the line finally succumbed. I gave up on the end near the accumulator, and tried the other end. I was able to get a little more leverage back there (believe it or not).
So, the engine is now as far down as the ATV jack will go, but I'll need to remove the bumper it looks like to pull it out. Thanks for all the help!!! Todd
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