This will definitely be important to pass onto the shop. Thanks

FP wiring........
 

RP,

One thing you have to ask your mechanic is to identify and verify the fuses in the your fuse box. This will determine whether you have a '76 or a '77 wiring set-up. The factory wiring diagrams show that '76 has fuse #21 for the FP and '77 has fuse #16. Verify the fuse box cover that you have is the correct cover for your fuse box because there is a possibility that you might have a different fuse cover.

Tony

On your CIS primer web site
So at least I know my car will still have the safety switch grounding wire to terminal 85 of FPR assuming the wiring on the Euro conversion was done correctly.

My leftover 1976 with a Euro Motor
 

Maybe this is premature to ask this question. I wonder if mechanics all along would always confuse this car as a J-Series and look at the wrong wiring schematics.

Of all things to happen-a car that is labeled a 1977 , maybe a 1976 and then a Euro motor put in it.

I know there is still proof to verify I have a leftover '76. And testing the circuits on the FPR.

I have a question that might be easy or not.

On the engine harness that plugs in to the engine fuse panel. Is the location of the afs circuit different on a I-series versus j-series. I think this information would be useful to pass onto the shop tomorrow to save them time.


I did verify that my fuse panel cover matches the fuse box for at least #21. Because I pulled the fuse and the fuel pump stopped working.
Here is the fuse I pulled.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221400191.jpg

Thanks!

I had the fuue pump fuse bypassed with a blade fuse since the top part of the fuse holder was broken (not by me)

Last year I was on the road with the kids and the car dies and smoke starts pouring out of the dash.

After the meltdown I replaced the 10-fuse block, all the fuses, fuel pump & window relays and sockets and now it's been running fine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1221417679.jpg

flat blade fuse is the part on the right.

No need to answer this question. I tested my 3 circuits tonight on the FPR socket.
1. Tested terminal 85 was grounded. When the car was not running.
2. Lifted the air flow sensor plate and terminal 85 was no longer grounded. So my AFS contact is working fine.
3. Tested 86 and power was hot as soon as I turned the ignition to on.
4. Tested 87 and power was hot as soon as I started cranking the car.

So it looks like I just need a new FPR and to look at the wiring to avoid the last post. Will ask for a new fuse box to fix #21. Hopefully I can put this all back together.

And of course hopefully no starting issues after I do all of this.

I pick up my car Saturday morning.

So here is the scoop. My circuit testing was correct so I have a FPR that works. However, it did take some effort to get the car starting after all that. He
thought first to test the cold start valve. He then must have noticed the sensor plate. He said it was adjusted too low. Anyway once the plate was adjusted the car has been starting fine. So I can't wait.

Of course there is still work. My alignment is all wrong visually as he noticed and he feels there is something wrong with the clutch cable. He says it disengages but
he feels like there is something wrong. Next Spring project since the car is being stored soon.

I have a pop off valve, adjusted idle mixture, and the working fuel pump. One step at a time.

Oh also I got the fuse panel rewired. Fuse for fuel pump is in its proper #16. Also the fuse box that was broken was also replaced. So the wiring should be correct now. We do believe the car is really a 1977. I was told the fuse box wiring was a mess and took a while to correct.

Actually a correction. The air flow sensor plate was set too high and adjusted lower. He said with it too high the vacuum wouldn't grab it and pull it up on start up. The engine was starving for fuel.

So it starts however,

I've noticed cold start issue already. The idle is hunting up and down. We already know my AAR is stuck closed.

Also I noticed there is a hot starting problem. Would start on the 2nd crank always. 1 in 5 on the first crank.

I bet I have a fuel accumulator or check valve issue. I plan on searching tonight. I haven't checked the warm start yet.

I'm not worried right now since I will be storing the car soon. It's Wisconsin.

At least my Fuel Pump is running when it should. I have a pop off valve, proper wiring in the fuse box and an oil change.

A small price for now. As I said before 1 step at a time to put the CIS back together operating as it should.

CIS troubleshoting......
 

Richard,

Good to hear that you are making progress on your car. This is the best time (colder weather) to check your CIS before putting it to storage. I mentioned to you before that having a CIS gauge is imperative for effective trouble shooting. Try to replace your AAR and start checking each CIS components (FP, CSV, injectors, fuel accumulator, WUR, etc.) and most important, for air leak/s. You will know your CIS is in good working condition if you could start it (one crank) at dead winter. Goodluck.....

Tony

1. I definitely agree I need to replace the AAR. I just don't know a source for
a Euro motor part/ or a US replacement, and if I can do the work without removing the intakes that is covering it.

I would like to know the scale of 1 to 10 on difficulty. Also can't this part be rebuilt. I can't believe the price on pelican parts.

2. The shop told me there was power to the CSV so unless I remove it I can't verify if there is spray. I suspect other parts first especially the Fuel Accum or Check Valve.

3. Injectors (all 6 of them) are 3 weeks old now. Car is running really
smoothly once it is started and warmed up.

4. Fuel Accumulator. I really suspect this part since it looks really old in my
car. Visually it looks original.

I agree I need to do a residual test to see if this is the problem. Either that or the check valve.

5. WUR. When the car was in for the injectors I was told this was checked. I was not given the values.

So this is pretty overwhelming. I do feel I got a fantastic deal on all the things that were done.

They must have felt sorry for me.

By the way-I'm not disappointed at all. Once the FPR was put back together and the circuit was fixed, I was expecting this problem. Because if you remember my FPR was broken intentionally.

I see the evidence now. I just need to test each component 1 at a time and replace the broken ones.

I just want to say -I really appreciate this message board as well for finding information. So wish me luck.

I would prioritize the hot start/warm start problem first and then the idle issue /hunting idle issue on cold start next. So I guess the AAR is lower on my priority list. Again thanks.

Clarification on starting issues
 

I should be clear on my starting issues.

Cold Start-
So far starts on first crank. Idle is hunting up and down. Will smooth out once I push in the accelerator pedal and raise the idle to 1500RPM until the motor warms up . Idle will then be stable.
We are sure the AAR is stuck closed. So then I assume it is running rich and now starving for air. CPR was tested 2 shop trips ago. And the CSV power lead was tested. We didn't pull it out to actually verify it.

Hot Start-
If I shut off the car and immediately try to restart it, it will take 2 tries at cranking to start. Once started, the idle is fine.

Warm Start-
After 1 to 3 hours (approx of course) it will take 3 or 4 tries at cranking before the car starts. Once started, the idle is fine.

Back to the CIS primer site on testing my system.

I'm betting my money on my Fuel Accumulator/maybe check valve and AAR will solve all my issues.

Given the age of the car can't I just replace the Fuel Accumulator and maybe the fuel pump/check valve. I never stated this fact before the car has 160,000 miles on it even though the power train was rebuilt.

Thanks