Drivability problem solved with new injectors
 

Hi all,

I have a 81 3.0L in a 77 911S.

Just recently I had a drivability problem where between start up to 2300 RPM under load the car would sound like it was running on half the cylinders, stumble, hesitate and hiccup. Oddly it would clear up on full throttle after around 2300. The car was fine up to the problem a week ago and oddly it started acting up right after putting gas in the car.

So I took it into the shop and the response was I need new Fuel Injectors. One was totally clogged and the others were border line. So we decided to replace all of them.

Anyway I picked up the car that night and well the same problem was still there. So I left the car at the shop and told them to look at it again. Anyway they confirmed that I was right about the stumbling and a little surprised.

So they checked the injectors and 2 were clogged (worst than before). This time they cleaned out the lines, flushed the system and replaced the 2 again.
The shop wasn't sure if it was fuel or just bad injectors. They also adjusted the cold side of the WUR for me to help with the cold start.

I then picked the car up again yesterday and now runs perfectly. The Aux Air Reg is bad according to them so some day I may have to fix that. So the idle is low on cold start.

So is it possible bad fuel could have caused this issue. It happened so suddenly so I am just confused.

So the question is what really happened. Bad fuel, bad new injectors. I have no problem replacing the injectors since they were probably old. Can't the
WUR cause issues with load on the engine and affecting the control pressure.

The fuel filter was replaced around 600 miles ago. I should say the motor was rebuilt by this same shop 600 miles ago also. CIS FI was relatively left untouched on the rebuild.

I spoke too soon about the stumbling fix HELP!!!
 

I spoke too soon. My problem came back. It was running great for just a day or so.

So I have a question - can the WUR (control pressure regulator) be failing. I assume it has a greater purpose than just warming up and increasing the mixture when cold. Does it play a role when you put a load on the engine? My issue really seems to be isolated only when I push off from a standstill. For example if I down shift or accelerate really really gradually, it is fine. Otherwise as soon as I push just a little bit (lugging the motor just a bit) it starts to stumble badly and just sounds like it is running on half the cylinders. After 2500 RPM or so it clears up.

Could my fuel line from the filter be bad causing fuel injectors to clog up again. I can't believe replacing fuel injectors for the 3rd time will solve this issue.

I should mention since my 3.0 L is not original to the car there is a possibility there is no O2 Sensor. It is suppose to be from a '81 911SC.

Also the cold start is fine and idle seems to be relatively smooth. On full throttle the car is fine too. I haven't had any warm start issues.

The car was in the shop for the last 3 days and they said the electrical was fine. I would assume the fuel pressure is fine too since they had the CIS tore apart 2 days in a row.

So what could they be doing to make it work for a day and then fail. I honestly wonder if my fuel line is bad and my injectors keep on getting clogged up.


Thanks

More information
 

I'm a novice at this so sorry if I'm not clear on things. I'm trying my best.

Actually any load on the engine will cause the engine to stumble even at 4000RPM. If I gradually accelerate at any speed, as I said before, it's okay not perfect. As soon as I push the throttle aggressively or somewhat aggressively it begins its stumbling. I thought the idle was smooth but I would say it is slightly rough. The car never stalls. Cold and warm start is fine. Cold idle even adjusts slightly. Just driving at 60 mph the car is fine too. I really could use some advise. I spent a lot of time reading up on the CIS at http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/components/components.html.

I read this on this web site "On cars with vacuum control, the WUR enriches mixture under load determined by lower intake manifold vacuum." Is there anything else that would adjust the mixture on an engine load. Could I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Would that cause an issue with smoothness under engine stress.

I am going to admit the car is a little more drivable since it went into the shop so I'm glad about that. I'm not sure if I can attribute this to the new injectors or the fact they did raise the idle for me to 1100RPM. I just hope the fuel line is okay and not clogging up the injectors again.

Well, I'll take a shot since I have some 3.0L engines.

First though, did you by any chance put Ethanol gasoline in your car?

The reason I ask about the Ethanol gas is because that happened to me. Car was running great. I was low on gas so I stopped to get some Ethanol (only gas station open at the time) put a few gallons in the tank.

Drove the car home, about ten miles with no problem. The very next day, the car started fine, drove fine for about 12 miles then started stumbling occasionally. I took the car home and left it over night again.

Next day, started up fine. I drove it four/ five miles and the same thing happened.

Went back home, and did a complete tune-up, oil change and valve adjustment and timing. By now, I had about less than a gallon of Ethanol left in the tank.

Went and got five (5) gallons of Chevron 92 octane. NO PROBLEMS since!!

Also, I thought that the idle that was set by the shop is a little high. Idle speed when timing is set correctly should be in the range of 900 + or - 50.

I hope this helps and I also hope another Pelican with more experience chimes in with their ideas as well.
SmileWavy

No I put in 92 Octane gas in the car just before I started having issues last week. I have used this gas station before. We only have 1 station with ethanol in Milwaukee. They do put in 10% ethanol here in the gas.

The car was set up twice by the same shop after that when they replaced the injectors. They also rebuilt the engine and up to now their settings were just fine before my event.

I had a slight oil leak fixed by them at around 500 miles they adjusted the fuel mixture again. This was around 100 miles ago. This was their request as a result of the rebuild.

I am still convinced it is a engine load issue; hence maybe a vacuum leak. Or maybe I don't have an O2 sensor and the fuel mixture on load is not adjusting correctly. Or maybe my injectors are clogged once again for the third time.

About the idle problem
 

Regarding my idle at 1100RPM--- yeah I agree the idle is a touch high. However my stumbling issue was gone yesterday when the idle was that high( after I picked the car up at the shop). At least it was okay for a day. Before I took it in this week it was at around 800 or 900 RPM and I was having the same issue with stumbling.

One reason we chose the higher idle since the 500 mile adj was because of the issue with my AAR which the shop said was bad.

Regardless my cold and warm start seem okay. I was listening to the idle again tonight and it seems fine.

Can I have a theory. I don't want to offend the experts out there since I am a novice.

My 3.0 L motor was retrofited in my '77 911 S without a O2 sensor. As such maybe the load and the vacuum leak depends on the CPR WUR for the right regulation of fuel mixture.

When the shop adjusted the car twice this week I picked it up cold the first time. The WUR worked cold and set the fuel mixture for cold. Failed.

I gave it back to the shop and they adjusted the mixture once again and told me they adjusted the WUR for cold start.

I took the car warm and it worked perfectly just like it did for them.

Now I started it cold this morning and the WUR failed as it did from the beginning.

The question is why did 2 injectors fail for them. That would imply my theory is totally wrong and I have a problem with the fuel clogging my injectors for the 3rd time.

I am so confused why this problem came up suddenly.

Run all the gas out and try 87 octane gas, no ethanol. I used 93 octane in my 80sc when I bought it 3 months ago and it drove like hell. Stumbled between 3 and 4k rpms. The factory spec for the my 80 and your 81 engine is 87 octane. Try it. As soon as I went back to 87 octane all my problems were solved.

Shelby

I'm sorry I cannot be of more help here, but it really does sound like you are getting too much gas...running rich. One way to tell would be to remove the spark plugs and check how they look. Really black, means rich mixture.

But, I am no expert. However, in re-reading your posts here I do have one concern that stuck out and I hate to bring it up. My concern is, if this engine has less than say 1000 miles on a rebuild, then why did you have an oil leak?? Where was the oil leak? Hopefully they told you what it was?

I think you are correct too, that there may be a vacuum leak somewhere in the CIS system. Have you been able to check all the hoses for leaks? There are some really good write-ups on this site with regard to troubleshooting for vacuum leaks and air getting into the system where it should not be...like cracked air box after a bad engine back fire. Do you know if you have a pop-up valve in your air box? If you do have a pop-up valve in the air box then that is not the issue here.

Also, check to make sure your spark plug wires are routed to the correct cylinder. Sometimes that can be problematic as you have mentioned here, but there would be rough running if that was the case from my experience.

I was told to use high octane by the shop because of the high compression from the rebuild. At least I think it was from the rebuild. Asked that specifically at 500 miles when I took it in for the fuel adjustment.

It was a minor leak that the shop took care of for me since they rebuilt the engine. I don't think the current issue is related since the engine was running fine after the oil leak fix.

I would have a small oil drip on the garage floor right after the car sat after being driven. It was running from the back of the engine down to the bottom. The shop was good to take care of it and said it was an odd failure on a new gasket. I haven't seen a drop since.

I was actually going to ask the shop if they put in a pop off valve at the time of the rebuild. So I will follow up with that.

About running rich... Is it possible when the car starts cold and makes the mixture more rich (WUR) that if the part fails it leaves the mixture too rich when warm. Then on engine load the vacuum line from the lower intake connected to the WUR makes the mixture even more richer causing my problem. Sorry for a novice theory. I will check into vacuum leaks however I would assume the shop would have done that too. I still need to confirm if I have an o2 sensor on my retrofited '81 3.0L.

My Bad. If it is a high comp rebuild by all means, run high octane gas.

Shelby

Is it feasible to retrofit a 77 CIS system into a 81 3.0L motor? If so, what are the obvious parts to check.

Some of the components will transpose. But a big factor is the type of '81 3.0. Is is Euro, or US? If US, are you planning on keeping the O2 system on the '81? What are the details of your rebuild?

There is really not enough information on your engine to answer the question. A simple answer to your first question would be "no".

current status
 

Well,
I would need some help differentiating a US vs Euro motor. I would bet it's a US version.

I did discuss my engine with the shop today and they said, for the most part, it's a 3.0L without the electrics of the O2 sensor.

So I have a manual set up. I would assume there would have to be a lot of tinkering to keep things running correctly.

Too bad I don't have a Pelican expert as a neighbor..... :)

I should add things are running better now. The shop thinks my car wash go some engine electrics wet causing my Saturday issue. I drove the car 100 miles this weekend, after the Saturday, and it ran much better. Odd to me....

Rebuild
 

In terms of the rebuild the crank shaft burned up so it was a bottom up rebuild.
The valve guides were not an issue in this recent rebuild. The car has had a top end rebuild before. A tensioner upgrade was installed at some point. Assuming a '81 motor is suppose to have 8.5:1 compression, then I must have new high compression pistons. Shop says my compression is 10.5:1.

I wish I knew more history on the conversion to 3.0L. I'm sure it would be helpful.

The US engine came stock with the Lambda system, and the Euro engine was stock without it. The two engines can be differentiated by the type number. The US engine type number was 930/16, and the Euro engine was a type 930/10. The US CIS had a frequency valve plumbed into the fuel return line from the fuel distributor, while the Euro CIS did not have a frequency valve.

Of course, when engines are modified from stock, no one changes the type number on the engine case to indicate what's inside the engine, so some knowledge of the engine's history is needed. Unless some one has changed the WUR on a US engine when the Lambda system is removed, the engine will never run at it's normal peak capability, as it will have no means to enrich the fuel mixture under load. The US engines depended on the Lambda system to do the enrichment normally done by the WUR on pre-Lambda engines.

Do you know where the markings are on the engine case.

So lets assume I have a modified US version motor and the Lambda system plumbing was removed to make it work in my car. This may be a dumb ? can the WUR from the 2.7 L original to my 77 be installed on a 81 3.0 L to accomendate the lack of a Lambda system. I would then assume there is a vacuum line from the lower intake system to the WUR to adjust the mixture based on engine load. But how would they accomplish this.

I assume I could look at the part number of the WUR and cross check it to a year.

What else could they do. I just assume getting a Euro 3.0 L would be difficult?

Anyway the shop told me specifically I do not have an O2 sensor on the car. So either this US version was converted to make it work using a different WUR or they PO happen to get a EURO motor.

Now I am really interested in getting to the bottom of this.

Thanks for your help

Might sound like a stupid question but are you by some chance running the 2,7US CIS in-
jection on a Euro 3.0 engine?
If so it may stumble and cough and do any number of odd things. If in fact the complete
engine has been installed disregard the question and tell me this is the Lambda sensor
connected? If so disconnect and see how she runs.

So many questions, so little information to work with...:confused:
The type number on the engine case is located on the right side of the case, behind the oil pressure sensor, to the right of the alternator.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220444845.jpg
The 930/xx number is the one you are looking for. (You won't find the 3.1 on your case).

Some definitions:
1) The O2 sensor is the component threaded into your exhaust system.
2) The Lambda system is the sum total of the electrical and fuel related parts of this system, of which the O2 Sensor is only one component.

You say "Let's assume..." A lot of time can be misspent making assumptions.
You need to find out what we are actually working with. What is actually on your car? If you don't know the details of what's on and in your engine, you should go to your shop and ask them to furnish you the information. How has your engine been modified? Internally, Externally? Has the entire Lambda system been removed? Only the O2 sensor removed? Is the Frequency Valve still in the return line? Stock Fuel Distributor, etc.?

The part numbers for the various components are listed, by year, on the website you listed in one of your earlier posts.

I wish I had a picture to prove my case #. I have a 930/10. I'm definitely going to check
this again tomorrow just to be sure.

So in your words "Euro engine was a type 930/10" :eek: I have a Euro motor.

I did confirm no Pop Off valve so I think that should be my next project.

I will post more information tomorrow or the weekend as I find more part #s.

I did get part of the Fuel Dist part # with my flash light . It ended with 100 097. That was all I could see. I looked at the CIS Primer url parts list and could find anything related.

I didn't list the Euro numbers on my website, because when the site was first posted, the Euro (grey market) cars were not as common as they are now, plus this info was harder to come by. The 097 is the number I find listed for the '81 - '83 Euro 3.0 liter. For further verification, you could get the numbers from the airflow sensor and the WUR, plus those from the AAR, if you can see them with the AAR mounted on the car. Although, the numbers you have found so far certainly are pointing at a Euro engine (which, straight from the factory, didn't have the Lambda system to begin with).

I am surprised your shop didn't pass this possibility on to you when questioned about the O2 sensor.

Thanks
 

Some of the part#s are hard to find. I tried to take pictures tonight as I find things and having trouble getting good shots. I have started with the case #
I spoke with another shop today and will set up an appointment to get the oil change and pop off valve installed. I'm not ready this year to dive into anything yet myself. I just want to get to the bottom of what (they lacked telling me) I have. I somewhat feel dumb so far. I tried asking all the right questions. I am glad so far I have a Euro FD. However, the new shop told me today its harder and harder to find replacement euro FDs so hopefully mine never goes bad. So the weekend I will try my best finding parts for the WUR and the others you listed. I was told my AAR is not working anymore and I am betting my AAV is sticking a bit with the oscilating idle (I get sometimes cold)


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220585790.jpg


The other shop said they would also document everything I had. They were experienced with Euro conversions. I don't plan on going in for a few weeks to get an oil change unless I have more gremlins in the car.

Thanks

What is the best way to find the part# on the WUR and air flow sensor.

Do I have the WUR located?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220674015.jpg

I'm wondering what this 2nd picture part is. Is it the AAV? Or is this the deceleration valve.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220674172.jpg

I saw a T-line in the back. Is this the AAR?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220674475.jpg

Beside the fuel filter is this the fuel accumulator?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220676362.jpg

So far confirmed parts.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220676040.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1220676115.jpg

You should be aware I bought the car from the shop who did the rebuild. Its a long story other than I can say they owned the car and did the rebuild. I bought the car in the spring from them after the work was done. I was not told that it was a Euro motor. I asked a lot of ?s but in retrospect they jumped around the answers and never were specific. All I knew is the motor was a 81 3.0LSC. They do have a good reputation. Interesting it took them a long time to find the crank shaft. No I probably have no upgrades. It's a Euro spec motor with different heads and compression.
I guess I liked the car because it was a rebuilt transmission and new clutch too so I thought it was a good deal. I didn't pay a lot for the car so I still think it is okay. I just need to get a handle on what I have. That's my goal right now. Next is to understand the tuning specs ; fuel and ignition. And then if it is possible get some documentation on the Euro motor to begin reading.

Thanks for your help.

Component ID
 

First photo: Yes, this is the WUR.
Second: The Aux Air Regulator
Third: The Deceleration Valve behind the throttle body
Fourth: Fuel Filter and Accumulator
Fifth: Fuel Distributor, mounted on top of the Air Flow Sensor. The AFS will also have a part number on a metal tag (similar to the FD tag) , which you can see with a little effort. Only the last three digits are needed to verify which version you have.

Numbers on the WUR: stamped on the top surface, unfortunately very hard if not impossible to see with the fuel connections in place. Only the last 3 digits are important.
Numbers on the AAR: stamped on the face of the AAR, on the right side. You can't see them without either removing it, or using a mirror. Again like the WUR, only the last three digits are important.

On my website, if you go to the components page, and click on the title above each description, you will find a photo of each of these items. For the AAV photo, I find the text under the photo missing. I will have to correct this when I can, recently I haven't been able to get the server to respond to my upload request.

Where is the AAV? Is it inside the air box?

Also Is the stamp for the air flow sensor on the same side as the FD. The right side or back. I was looking all around the base of the FD last night. I knew the FD was the head and had a good idea below was the air flow sensor.

I believe the AAV is just behind the AAR (it is on my 82 SC) ... saucer looking component usually brass colored. Take a look and see if it is there.

The only thing I see right on top of the WUR is a stamp 916. I don't think that's it so I'll continue looking including the AAV.

I just bought the 911SC Bentley Service manual. Should I return it since I have a Euro motor. Just wondering. Thanks

I can't really answer your question about the Bentley Manual, as I don't have one, and don't feel qualified to make a judgment. However, I think if you will use the assets on Pelican to learn of the differences (you've already learned about the CIS), the book will probably have a lot of useful info. While the engine may have a few differing components, the methods of working on a US and a Euro engine are basically the same, and if you don't have the Bentley describing repairs to a US engine, you won't have any Bentley describing repairs to a Euro engine.

The steps to removing say, a camshaft, will be the same for either engine type.

One suggestion, if you plan on keeping this car is to purchase a book titled :
Porsche 911SC - The Essential Companion 1978-1983.
This book explains all of the differences with the European and U.S. models AND has many good pictures showing you exactly where all the components are within the engine compartment, within the interior and the model's changes each year.
The book also has very good pictures of engines (types) and explains which years and models had which engine. For example, I believe the type you have is a 930/16 which maps to the year of your car. (At least that is what I thought I saw in the picture you took of the engine number...looks like a 16 not a 10).

Another really great reference is the Porsche Factory shop manuals. They will compliment the Bentley manual you purchased.
Hope this helps.

Just to clarify it is definitely a 930/10. My camera is not taking very good pictures. I had my neighbor check it too and we both agree it is a 930/10. It was also confirmed I have a Euro FD.
Thanks all

Okay, that is good! 930/09 and 930/10 type engines are both ROW class engines.

As far as the issues you are currently dealing with, Jim Williams is correct! Get an expert to tell you what has been done, a list, so you know exactly what you are dealing with. For example, according to some literature I have read with regard to the 930/10 ROW engine, its specifications call for the use of Leaded gasoline (reference page 97 of the Porsche 911SC - The Essential Companion), so that would make a big difference.

Here is what I have regarding your Engine type: 930/10

Bore mm/inch 95.0/3.74
Stroke mm/inch 70.4/2.77
Displacement cc/cu.in. 2994/ 182.7
Compression ration 9.8/1
Horsepower kW/hp @ rpm 150/204 @5900
Torque Nm/lbft @ rpm 267/196 @ 4200
Max. rpm 7000
Idle speed rpm 900/+ or - 50
Fuel grade 98RON leaded (ROW)
Oil press @ 5000rpm 4.5 bar
Oil comsump. litre/1000km/600 miles 1.5/1.05


Now, with that said, about the only thing that I might disagree about, and most here on Pelican would attest to, is the comsumpsion of 1 US quart of oil every 600 miles. To me, that seems a little high for street driving and with that high a comsumption rate, I would begin to plan an engine rebuild and at least get a leakdown/compression test done to see what is causing the current burn rate.

I hope you can get some resolution soon.

Once again, I am no expert especially since I don't know the answer to the "Leaded" or "Unleaded" gasoline question, but I do know that my 1963 Ranchero with a 289 engine needs leaded gasoline. The unleaded gasoline burns too hot and can degradate the metals of my valves quickly and cause serious damage to components, as well as the engine if not addressed.

Leaded vs Unleaded
 

How would one find leaded gas or mix lead into gasoline in the US? :confused::confused: Any one out there with a Euro car or engine with an opinion on use of unleaded gas.

Also after the new FIs, shop 1 wants me to have the mixture adjusted after 500 miles which wasn't a big concern to shop 2.

I'm curious -are they just adjusting the idle mixture or would they have to recalibrate the FD? I would think the latter is a pretty big deal to do if you don't suspect any volume issues between injectors.

Car is running much better now after the last Saturday issues.

Also has any one ever installed one of those O2 sensors and air fuel ratio monitors on their 78/79. I wonder if there is an advantage for me.

Also still working on part #s. It may take shop 2 to document the remaining parts for me.

Thanks

Discussion about lead vs unleaded
 

Per http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/gen99/gen99615.htm
From the web site:
"The Unites States and most other countries switched from leaded to unleaded
fuel years ago. The lead additive, tetraethyllead, retarded "preignition"
in gasoline engines. Preignition causes engines to run rough, and to not
shut off when the key is turned off. The suppression of preignition is
measured by the gasoline's "octane rating". A good high-octane gasoline
allows a standard engine to run smoothly. Leaded gasoline also protected
some older car engines from wearing down by covering soft engine parts with
lead-containing material.

There are two major problems with using leaded fuel. 1) Lead is extremely
toxic, and causes mental retardation in children. Lead oxide from car
exhaust accumulates in soil near roads, and children can get it on their
hands from playing outside. They then ingest it, and it causes its damage.
2) Leaded gasoline ruins automobile catalytic converters. As a result of
these two problems, lead in gasoline has been banned in the U.S. Other
additives, such as methyl-tert-butyl ether (which is about to be banned),
had to be used to improve gasoline's octane rating."

a. I'm not going to send out toxic waste in our neighborhood. So I guess my engine is exploding soon.
b. What if I wanted to put on a catalytic converter on my engine. It would still run. Didn't the 77 911S with 2.7L have a catalytic converter.
c. Are the metals in the '81 Euro 3.0 engine valves etc. that much different than the US cousin? If not, again I guess I'm in trouble.

What do track people do with their car? Is there anything different in the fuel they use?

Part it out?
 

Now I'm angry. Shop 1 hard wired my fuse panel to make the fuel pump run on Ignition On. Why why why... It runs I can hear it CLEARLY without the car running....

I'm done with these people. I should drive the car to the shop write what the f$#k on paper around the jump wire and disconnect the jump wire fuse. Like to see them try to start the car to go to the fuse box. Of course they would charge me $$$ just to check the fuse box first.

How could they play with my life? A KEY SAFETY FEATURE!!! How could they sell this car?

Okay, I'm learning about 911s. My experience is now ruined with this car. My
wife just wants me to part it out and get the best $ for it.

I'm definitely calling Shop 1 tomorrow to get this resolved. It is one thing not
to tell me I have a Euro motor -it is another thing to rebuild the engine and disable the fuel pump. Even if they didn't do the Euro conversion they should have put it back together properly. Come on --this is suppose to be a reputable shop in Milwaukee.

So who wants my Euro 3.0 L, CIS, Tran and Clutch? The engine is good, tranny rebuilt 10 K ago, new clutch and it runs great. Shop 2 is significantly better and could attest to this power train. I have good Fuchs and 2 targa tops. I'm sure there are other parts worth something.

I knew going into this purchase 911s are expensive to maintain. This is different. I trusted these people.

Sorry you don't have to respond.. I'm upset right now.

Now I have a ?
 

Per instructions of the shop today (who rebuilt the motor) told me to pull the fuse on the jumped wire to prove his point. He thought maybe
a. that the fuel pump safety switch may have been disabled, as he put it, people did it in the past to solve a vapor lock problem in the fuel system on warm start up.
b. He also wasn't sure if the electrical system on a 77 had the safety switch.

Anyway I pulled the fuse and the car would not start and I definitely didn't hear the fuel pump on Ignition on.

So to point b. someone forced the fuel pump to work so I suspect the 77 911 had this switch. Regarding point a. if that was true then upon removing the jumped fuse the car would still start which it did not.

The question is could he have mis-wired the air flow sensor and not realize it because he didn't know the fuse panel hard wired the fuel pump.

Or maybe the car has to have the fuel pump working on Ignition On for it to work. Could there be a faulty Fuel Accumulator or Check Valve. I definitely tried
and tried to start the car and all it did is crank.

If someone could clarify the fuel pump relay and how it works. When the airflow sensor is closed is there ground and hence the fuel pump doesn't work, and then when the contact is broken the ground is broken, and a solenoid in the relay connects the power to the fuel pump. Or is it the reverse.

Thanks