Supply/return lines to trombone ?

[robert walsh]

'83 sc CAB, I know the trombone isn't worth it's weight in copper (probably now it is), but the problem is the ever present crushed line in particular the one that runs alond the ouside of car, not sure if that is return or supply, it's crushed and can't be repaired, been there, could be coupled and soldered but not interested and I'm a plumber. Do i I have to drain the oil in the entire car? Any special do this or that first recommendations? Lasty the inner line does not seem to be copper rather appears to be a hard rubber, not totally sure yet, perhaps the P/O crushed both and replaced the inner with a cheapo rubber hose? Or did they come that way? I'll take a closer look today and determine if it is copper or rubber.

[KNS]

The lines running underneath the rockers should be metal. The only oil that will drain out is what is in the lines and the cooler (1-2 quarts at most), the thermostat should be closed with a cold engine.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by robert walsh

'83 sc CAB, I know the trombone isn't worth it's weight in copper (probably now it is), but the problem is the ever present crushed line in particular the one that runs alond the ouside of car, not sure if that is return or supply, it's crushed and can't be repaired, been there, could be coupled and soldered but not interested and I'm a plumber. Do i I have to drain the oil in the entire car? Any special do this or that first recommendations? Lasty the inner line does not seem to be copper rather appears to be a hard rubber, not totally sure yet, perhaps the P/O crushed both and replaced the inner with a cheapo rubber hose? Or did they come that way? I'll take a closer look today and determine if it is copper or rubber.

930.207.045.00 is the outer one that always gets plinked, they can be repaired, some have used heat and pressure others cut and braze.

930.207.046.00 is the upper return line, yes, it is brass like the lower feed line.

the big issue is the connections at the end, be patient use heat and they do come apart, as long as you are replacing the line you can also use a Dremel to carefully slice the nut don't go too deep or you buy a new t-stat too.

Yes, you need to drain the oil, so coordinate this w/ your usual peridic maintainance. and yes you need some big open end wrenches. I bought a Stahlwille 32x36 when I did mine(In my younger days, flat on my back in and unheated barn, on a 0F Jan day, brrrrrr....still brings back bad memories)

[robert walsh]

My inner line is quite clearly coated with the rubberized undercoating that is over the entire bottom of car, very old I assume from the factory, yet the outer cruched one is not? I cant see that coating of the inner tube doing anything other than hindering any cooling aspects, perhaps a set of elephant finned lines would be the answer to both. God only knows what has taken place with these cars over the last 25 years, unless you are the lucky original owner, and believe me I have records going way back, but nothing that would ever explain something as simple as this, unless it was factory or dealer applied, no way for me to know.

[Scott Clarke]

Don't throw out that crushed line! The crimp can most likely be removed by pressurizing the line and applying heat to the depressed area. I did this to both of my lines, so I know it works. There have been some threads on the issue. If you are not interested in doing this repair, I'm sure you can sell the line to someone that is.

By the way, these are brass and not copper.

[robert walsh]

I would have thought they would have used copper to disipate heat more efficiently and cost a lot less, I guess being brass is why the talk of brazing as opposed to soldering. I spoke to PCA friend and he has convinced me that we can repair the old one, I just don't want the down time, here in the NE were in midst of the greatest driving weather of the year, then it's time to button it up, perhaps I'll hold off till winter to repair it. THANKS Brass, I would never have guessed that one.