Seeking Advice: Front End Re-Assembly

[trentwat]

Pelicans,

I undertook a massive DIY bite, and I think I'm close to completion -a long road for sure for a newbie. If it wasn't for sites like this one, this would have definitely not been possible (archives have been my friend). Thank you to all who contribute to this site. It is an excellent resource.

At this point the entire front end (A-arms, Brakes, Master Cylinder, Shocks, Torsion Bars, etc.) has been touched. My plan is to start re-assembly this weekend, but I'm not 100% sure where to start, and was wondering if there are any shortcuts or special tricks. Here's the order I was planning:

1) Install ERP Bushings into A-Arm brackets (A-arm mounting ring (name?) already bonded to A-arm)
2) Mount A-Arms / Install Torsion bars
3) Install stock sway bar with new bushings
4) Ball-Joint
5) Struts/Shocks
6) Install new bearings (races already mounted in hub thanks to NAPA tool)
7) Master Cylinder
8) Brakes / SS hoses
9) Brake Fluid
10) Off to the alignment center

note: Turbo Tie-Rods already installed. If you know what to do with the open end, it would be appreicated.

Your comments and perspective would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

-Trent

[Zeke]

Just 1 suggestion: before finishing one a-arm or the other, thread the sway bar into the rubber grommet, then swing the arm over into place and bolt it up along with the bar. You'll see why when you start to mock things up.

[trentwat]

Thanks Milt...that makes sense, and I'd have probably installed both arms first.

[AtomicDog]

trentwat,

+1 on what Milt said.

What "open end" are you referring to on the tie rods? Outer end of the boots?

Your mileage may vary, but I installed the ball joints prior to putting the control arms on the car. I don't like to apply that much torque to something balancing on jack stands - especially if I'm underneath.

I had trouble with the sway bar bushings on the body mounts. Ended up installing the shells for those bushings prior to fully tightening the body brackets.

A hook spanner prevents you from chewing the heck out of the strut-top washers. Much better than vise-grips or channel lock pliers.

Look over the rigid brake lines very carefully. Mine had corrosion problems.

If not already installed, now is a good time for rack spacers, if you intend to or have lowered the front ride height.

You might need to provide clearance on the front control arm mounting brackets for the grease zerk fittings on the polybronze bushing shells. I used a Dremel. Pay attention to the orientation of the fittings during installation, as you will want to be able to reach them without having to raise the car.

If anything else comes to mind, I'll get back.

Good luck.

Chris

[imcarthur]

Very good advice from Milt & Chris.

As Chris mentioned aligning the rearward (body) sway brackets was the most difficult part of the job. They can/must be bent & mangled a bit to align the bolt holes - your results may differ. Working the ball joints a bit makes them easier to move once you have them pinned in place.

Ian

[jwetering]

Originally Posted by milt

Just 1 suggestion: before finishing one a-arm or the other, thread the sway bar into the rubber grommet, then swing the arm over into place and bolt it up along with the bar. You'll see why when you start to mock things up.

Where was this advice when I didn't ask for it two years ago? I did it the *hard* way, and even managed to put the d@mm£d sway bar in upside down before I FINALLY took one of the a-arms down and you know it just went together slick as gopher grease after that.

[Won]

Might want to consider having the ball jointed installed on the A-arm before you install the arm.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Won

Might want to consider having the ball jointed installed on the A-arm before you install the arm.

Yes! Good one.

[SteveinTO]

I can't remember, and maybe a search would yield a more accurate answer, but you can hit the Euro ride height pretty close by centering the adjuster and then assembling the A-arm on the torsion bar with about 30 degrees of droop from horizontal.

I think this pic shows about what you want. It shows mine when it came off before I monkey'd with it.



Also good advice to assemble as much of the ball joint/strut appariti on the bench. It's easier than working upside down & backwards on the floor.



This is the best pic I've got showing the centered adjuster and the approx droop to correct ride height. It was close enough so I didn't have to re-index the T-bar.



Might be a convenient time to service the rack. The inside of mine was pretty crusty after 26 years. Easy to soak & scrub & re-pack with some of that good CV-joint grease.



Hope I got these pic in the right place for you. Little confusing here.