Clutch Pedal Sticking

Kaliv · Kaliv's Garage

My clutch pedal would stick down about half way on occasion, and it seems to happen more often now...so I thought I would look into what the problem might be. I don't think it is engaging, it just doesn't come all the way back up. So there is no worry that my clutch is engaged all the time, only when I push the pedal all the way down.

My first thought was that a spring might be getting stuck or something, but I couldn't find a spring actuating anywhere when I move the pedal. Did it snap and fly away somewhere?

My second thought might be something wrong with the clutch master cylinder, but I have no idea what one does. I just saw the major moving part and looked it up on the diagram. Will all the tubes and such, it looks like my clutch is operating on fluid to me, just like brakes...which is news to me. Would I need to check some kind of fluid level?

Obviously my knowledge level in this area is lacking. Just thought I would ping what other might think the problem is.

felix_browne · 01-12-2008, 12:21 PM

don't know about on a g50 car but a similar thing happend to me and it was the result of a failing bushing in the pedal cluster. might be worth a look.

afterburn 549 · 01-12-2008, 02:17 PM

Peddle cluster rebuild time and chec for a leaky master cyl...also use brass bushings not plastic ones

john walker's workshop · 01-12-2008, 02:31 PM

hydraulic issue most likely. master, slave or both. air in the system due to a fluid leak somewhere.

Por_sha911 · Por_sha911's Garage

Your clutch uses the brake fluid from the reservoir in the front. If the brake fluid level is low that could be an indicator. If its air in the system, you will have to bleed the brakes along with the clutch.
And now for something completely different: does anyone think it might be related to the release fork or the guide tube?

Kaliv · Kaliv's Garage

I'm gathering that there is no spring to replace like on '86 and older models.

I did put some WD-40 on all the connections hoping that might help a little. The brake fluid did get low probably a month and a half ago, but I topped it off when I noticed it. The fluid was pink and I added something clear. I doubt that would make a difference though...was still DOT4.

Por_sha911 · Por_sha911's Garage

1) Look for where the fluid went.
2) If the fluid is more than 2 years old (or you don't know), do a full flush of the system.
3) FYI: WD40 is not a lubricant or for rust problems. It is a Water Displacement product. Use Silicone, light oil, or white grease for lubrication and Kroil or PB Blaster for rust.

88911coupe · 01-13-2008, 01:15 PM

JW is right...same thing happened to me. Repaced the master on a bet that that was it but turned out to be the slave, which is a little harder since the engine needs to be dropped a little for access.

Kaliv · Kaliv's Garage

Besides just replacing the items and seeing if that works...is there a better way to figure out which part may be the culprit?

petrolblue83911 · 01-13-2008, 08:10 PM

Kaliv,

You should start at the pedal cluster, remove the floor board so you can look at the cluster and see if anything is binding, or if you see a puddle of brake fluid down there. If all looks tight, and dry, move to the clutch cable-and then to where the cable ends at the bottom of the tranny. something is binding, it could be a bad bearing, or a clutch component, or a cracked/dammaged clutch cable.

88911coupe · 01-14-2008, 06:18 AM

In my case the fluid was getting past the gasket around the piston on compression and then flow back when released, consequently I was not "leaking" any fluid externally...which obviously made it impossible to determine which was leaking. Someone on the board, can't recall who, commented that it's pretty much a roll of the dice so just pick one to repair and hope to get lucky. I'm sure that someone like JW knows enough to say which one is most likely. Actually, now that I remember, the slave made have been a little easier than the master, in particular with a partial engine drop which is really pretty easy. I'm pretty slow so it took me most of the day.

euro911sc · euro911sc's Garage

Another possibility is that you have developed some kind of bur/buildup on the sleeve that the throwout bearing rides on. This happened to me on my 915. Put pedal to floor... never came back until the bearing had wiggled its way off the high spot and then it was if I dropped the clutch...

This is an unlikely failure, but thought I might mention it.

Best regards,

Michael

DC9driver · 02-18-2008, 02:35 PM

Mine did the same thing for about 2 months until it just plain "sucked" down to the floor.. Leaking master cyl in my case.. Let it sit in the garage for 6 months and now about to tackle it... err...

rnln · 02-18-2008, 02:41 PM

I had the same problem for couple months, occured once in a while that it stayed down at the bottom and wait for me to pull it up. At the end, it gave up on the night we went out to a wedding. NICE. Finally, it's the slave cylinder's problem. Replacing it is "very fun". It is on top of the tranny. If you lay down on your back, proximately at the cat (driver side), reach your right hand up there, you will find it.
Good luck.

rcaradimos · 08-17-2008, 03:23 PM

rnln,
Any tips on how to replace the slave cylinder? After a heavy Auto-cross event, I noticed my clutch pedal seemed soft/low checked fluid and it was low.. added some fluid and checked around and found a leak. I found a large wet spot of break fluid on a piece of cardboard that I put under the engine dead center between engine and trans.
What do you think slave or line? Is this a job w/ car on lift?
By the way I did cream a cone on the event and felt it rumble right down the center of my under carriage any chance it hit something that created my problem?
Thanks in advance

rnln · 08-25-2008, 11:12 AM

I think it can be the slave because I had the same problem, unless you can see leak in the line by visual checking it. To take the slave off, get under the car, look up on top of the tranny, close to the engine front. If you can manage to reach your right hand up there to find (touch) it, there will be a hard line connect to it on the U.S. driver side. There are 2 nuts holding it in place. Taking off those 2 nuts, then manage to get it out. You will see the fluid is leaking out of the boot area. Fluid then drip inside the tranny belt housing and drip down to the bottom of the tranny/engine case. Putting it back in, and bleeding it is very difficult.
Here is a pic I saw someone posted in PP.com

san augustine · 09-20-2008, 04:06 PM

I believe I have this problem. Is it possible to replace the slave cylinder without dropping the tranny?

rnln · 09-20-2008, 08:57 PM

I replace it without droping anythings. What I can remember is... hints...

First I took the hard line off and found that is not the best way to do. After installed the slave, I had to take the slave off again to install the hard line before install the slave.

When you install the slave, it's hard to push it into the 2 bolts and the pin is at the right place. Yes, there is a hole in the bracket inside the bell housing, but the pin will easily miss that hole. So first, align the slave so that the pin will aim right at the hole, then push the slave straight in so the slave can fit the 2 bolts. It seam easy but it's not easy at all.

If I have to do it again, I probably take the engine mounts off and lower the rear several inches, as much as I can. I have never lower engine but someone said you can lower it up to 2" without removing anything.

Get on diet for 3 days so your arms can be a little thinner.