Rear sway Bar fitment issue

[joetiii]

I installed an aftermarket rear sway bay on my 69 and have a question with fitment. This H&H sway kit designed for 69-73 911s uses shackles to attach to the torsion tubes and spring arms. When I fit everything together so that the bar is horizontal and the drop links are perpindicular to the ground, the sway bar itself fits real close to the transmission mount. When I tighten all the clamps, it draws the sway bar against the trans mount. Is this normal for them to be this close, or should I re orient the droplinks awy from perpindicular so the bar is clear from this mount?

My initial feeling is since the bar itself doesn't move up& down, it will not cause trouble to the trans mount. Its more important that the drop links move in straight up & down, versus moving at a 30 degree angle, no?

[911pcars]

You could insert a thickish shim between the sway bar mount and the sway bar (with longer bolts). That should provide more clearance between bar and gearbox mount.

Sherwood

[joetiii]

This is a picture of the setup.



I suppose I could use a metal shim that goes between the c clamp and the mounting bracket to see if it extends further..... but can anyone verify the true orientation of the end links should be only 90 degrees from ground?

They are obviously not oriented that way in the pic and If I were to use the mid adjuster setting, I would have one droplink on the furthest hole, and one on the closer hole so I can't see that they would be both at 90 dg in this setting anyway.

[911pcars]

Originally Posted by joetiii

I suppose I could use a metal shim that goes between the c clamp and the mounting bracket to see if it extends further..... but can anyone verify the true orientation of the end links should be only 90 degrees from ground?

They are obviously not oriented that way in the pic and If I were to use the mid adjuster setting, I would have one droplink on the furthest hole, and one on the closer hole so I can't see that they would be both at 90 dg in this setting anyway.

Install the sway bar assy. so the drop links are as close to 90 deg. to the sway bar as possible. To install this properly, the suspension must be at regular ride height (as if you rolled the vehicle onto an alignment rack).

In addition, install each drop link at the same hole position on each end, otherwise, you will introduce preload onto the sway bar at rest. The H&H pic just shows the two available drop link positions.

BTW, the closest hole provides relatively more oversteer/less understeer and the furthest hole provides relatively less oversteer/more understeer.

Do you have a front sway bar? If not, don't install the rear bar yet.

Sherwood

[joetiii]

Thanx Sherwood,

I have the car on ramps so the suspension is loaded. I have had a 20 mm front bar since owning the car and thats ok for street driving. But I am struggling to get the car balanced right for autox. The rear bar is now on and I installed adjustable front links so I have the ability to balance the car better. I am set at full loose now in the rear and have the front links with little to no preload. From what I'm hearing you say, I can loosen the C clamps on the torsion bars and add a little angle to the drop links so the sway bar doesn't rest on the trans mount....

[911pcars]

"From what I'm hearing you say, I can loosen the C clamps on the torsion bars and add a little angle to the drop links so the sway bar doesn't rest on the trans mount...."

Joe,
Per my first reply, add a spacer block between the U-shaped sway bar bracket and its mount. You can try loosening the C-clamp and adjust the angle to optimize the alignment of the drop link.

To get more autocross oversteer, adjust the rear bar to full stiff and see how it goes.

Sherwood

[175K911]

When I had an H&H bar on my old 86 Carrera, I had to install a shim between the bivot bushing bracket and the mount on the chassis. In your case, between the pivot bushing and the big adapter that bolts to the torsion tube. I just went to my local Ace hardware store and got a piece of 1/4" flate steel bar, cut it to length and drilled two holes in it. Sandwich it in and you've lowered the pivot point of the bar.

As a side note- when I got around to replacing my old trans mounts, the clearance problem went away. Might want to check your mounts to see if they're old and sagging down. Might be contributing to your problem.