Hey guys. Sorry for the late entry it's 2:26am here in DC. But I just wanted to thank all of you for helping me. It is so cool we all have this website to share ideas and info!

I am proud to be a Porsche owner and to be part of this website..... so thanks again. Now on with the project! I'll let you know how it goes.

For some cheap insurance go find some nickle or copper based antiseize. Nickle is the good stuff and almost impossible to find except online. Copper is much better then aluminum but still hard to find. The common aluminum based antiseize doesn't really do much for the exhaust system.
Also using copper nuts is a big help in preventing future problems in removing exhaust components. (You still want to heat copper nuts til they glow before removing)

"For some cheap insurance go find some nickle or copper based antiseize."



nickle for high heat applications up to 2,500F

Please take the good advice for heating the nuts HOT HOT HOT before you attempt to remove them. I did not head this advice on the first exhaust system i pulled off a car and broke SEVEN studs. The engine was going for overhaul and we were replacing all of the studs with short ones, but for heavens sake I broke SEVEN of them... So don't be a monkey like me.

Regarding the valve adjustment. The Pelican technical info center (tab at the top of the page) has instructions for a backside valve adjustment that is very near to idiot proof. Even for a monkey like me. I tend to get them too loose when I go by "feel" as I'm afraid of getting them too tight. The backside adjustment method is the bomb.

angela

It takes more than slight resistance to silence a noisy valve train.

But once you get the feel, it's a breeze.

When I bought my car the bottom valve covers looked brand new ....how can I tell if I have OEM or Turbo valve covers. I think the guy be for me might have changed them.

I dont think I would replace the studs if they are useable. I would as Gunter suggested add some spacers, kind of a pia, but if you break/ruin studs trying to remove them, you have just opened a serious can of worms. I also firmly believe in serious heat to remove the H/E nuts. Make them glow a dull orange before trying to loosen them, then loosen them very carefully. TIme and patience spent here will save you hours of headaches later on. I have done this job hunderds of times and not yet broken a stud. However last week a toyota pickup tested my mettle, and I had to drill and retap like 9 studs, took the whole day . Good luck , this is a nice upgrade.

I have a A basic knowledge of car and engines I also have the tune up DVD

Noticed you mention a tune up DVD, where is this available. As a matter of interest i wonder if anyone has done a engine rebuild dvd.
(good idea i think ££££££)

Coxy, You can get it from our host under the tune up section.

Hey guys I just got my baby up on ramps and jackstands. My question is do I need to heat all the bolts or just the ones holding the HE's on. I wondering if I can take of the cat, muffler, heat sheild stuff like that and then take the HE off in a couple days. Thanks

I remember taking everything off together but the car was on a hoist; much easier!
Remove all hoses from HE to flapper boxes and engine.
Remove the heat shield.
Remove one muffler strap, leave the other one snug.
Remove the lower oil pipe using 2 wrenches, oil will leak out.
Heat the HE nuts redhot and remove the nuts (Leave a couple to hold up the whole mess)
You may need another hand with this because if the car is on stands, you are somewhat limited with space underneath.
Once everything is loose, the whole assembly can come down but, it weighs a bit, be prepared.
To do this while on your back means its more difficult and also less safe, use gloves and safety glasses.
If you do it piece by piece, the stock triangle connection with the 3 bolts can be a pain.
You can cut the bolts off with a mini grinder.
Or use an Acetylene torch.
If the muffler and HE are still good, they have some value.
The cross-over pipe and CAT can be cut in the process.

I have a 3.2L with SSIs and a MK 2in2out pipe, love the setup. But the 2 out pipe is loud and drones below 3000RPMs. But the nice thing is that MK also sells a cap to cap off one of the out pipes, this turns the pipe into a 2in1out. This setup gives you the best of both worlds, no droning with one side capped and full sound performance with both sides open.