Looking for some tricks or tips befor I start.

[seymore]

Hey everyone, I was just curious if anyone could give me some tips or little pointers to help my work go as smoothly as possible.

I just got new/used SSI's and a MK muffler. So I'm going to switch those out with the stock ones. And I was also thinking of doing a valve adjustment and tune up while I'm at it.

I have a A basic knowledge of car and engines I also have the tune up DVD and 101 book sold by our host. I just looking for those little things that all of you have found makes it easer to get the job done. I can't wait to get in there and start getting dirty.

Thanks for all you help in advance. Seymore

Oh yeah by the way I have an 82 SC.

[mike_dunn]

I would pick up a Bentley service manual too, it's well worth the price.

I can't help with the exhaust, but the valve adjustment is very easy. Top covers and valves are no problem. The lower valve covers are a little more difficult to remove because the cat is in the way on the drivers side and oil lines on the passenger side. After the covers simply adjust the clearance so there is a slight resistance on the feeler gauge. Recheck the clearance after you've tightened the locking nut. That's it.

[old man neri]

So you are thinking of removing your headers and replacing them with SSIs? My only advice is that if it looks like it's not going to budge....just let it be. Think of the consequences of a snapped stud. I messed around with my cat but there was no way I was going to try to touch the exhaust studs.

[rib]

Hi, Snap, Ive just updated to that configuration-SSI with M&K. I think you will be pleased with the result.

When dropping the old exhaust you can drop in one piece if you have the car on a ramp. Another thing is to soak the exhaust manifold studs with a freeing agent a good day before you start. If the nuts are still fast use some heat. This is the prefered method.

Goodluck.

[ChkbookMechanic]

I agree with mike_dunn and second the suggestion that you get the Bentley Service Manual, it ends up being a really nice reference when you are trying to figure just how exactly something goes back together (or take it apart ).

Also, like rib, I suggest soaking the exhaust manifold studs w/ a freeing agent; however, I suggest doing it for 2 or 3 days. Because when removing the old manifold you could be stuck with a broken manifold stud and having to drill it out. So I'd try and give myself as much of a fighting chance as possible.

I recently replaced my catalytic converter with the m&k euro premuffler and soaked the 9 bolts with wd-40 for 2 or 3 days before I actually did any work on it. I had given it a quick try and realized there was no way I was going to budge those bolts without some help.. When I actually got underneath the car to replace it, the bolts were a lot easier to get out than when I initially tried.

Oh, and removing the o2 sensor (if you have one) can be a pain the rear so I'd hit that with a lot of wd-40 or some other loosing agent as well.

[seymore]

Ok great guys Thanks.

[mca]

Use anti-seize on the new exhuast nuts (not the studs).

Did you get the thin or thick flange SSIs? If you got the thin flange, your exhaust studs should be the shorter type.

[the]

Go to the hardware store and get a $10 propane torch. Don't try to remove the exhaust nuts without heating them. Also, soak them with PB Blaster first. If you do those two things, you'll likely have no problem with broken studs, unless the studs are seriously weakened by corrosion.

[seymore]

I have a couple of questions. Where do I get the shorter studs for thin flange and is it necessary to replace the bottom valve covers?

[James Brown]

don't forget the new oil lines you need (for backdating) on a sc. If your using the (l think) 70-74 SSI heat exchangers.

[seymore]

Anyone know where to get the short studs?

[911pcars]

The archives is your friend.

Sherwood

[mca]

Originally Posted by seymore

Anyone know where to get the short studs?

Our host has them.

I got them from a local Porsche shop b/c I was in a hurry. Most shops can have them for you the next day.

[wcc]

Valve adj- Look at the tech info articles and familiarize yourself the back side method. Very easy and you don't have to worry about the 'feel'.

Headers - TAKE YOUR TIME! In other words get some Kroil, PB, good penetrating lube. Spray a couple of times a day for about a week. Let it soak in really good. I used nut splitters on some and that helped. You can use the same propane torch lighter, but use MAAP gas with it. You can get it at any hardware store. It gets hotter than Propane. Get the nuts hot, no I mean RED HOT. If they aren't glowing they ain't hot enough. Then hope as you loosen 'em the studs don't snap. This is how I did it when I did my 930 headers with no broken studs.

Good Luck!

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by seymore

Anyone know where to get the short studs?

I think you can leave the long studs and just use spacers, either flat washers, or use bigger nuts as washers, or have a shop machine one-piece washers to make up the difference.
Be prepared that the old nuts will not come off easily.
Lots of heat for red-hot; Propane will not do it.
WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil; use a good penetrating oil for several days before trying to open the nuts.
A broken stud means trouble.
Same for the oil lines: soak the threads, especially the external thermostat.
Don't damage the threads.
Some people use a Dremel to cut the ring-nut and crack it open with a chisel instead of wasting time with a wrench that doesn't really fit in there.

[seymore]

OK. I got the short studs for the SSI's, I got new gaskets, nuts and adjustment tool for the valves, new spark plugs, oil, oil lines for SSI's, and all the tools I need I think. Am I missing anything before I start? I know I need to soak the studs for a week or so but does that mean no driving while they soak? I can hardly wait to get this project underway!

[ChkbookMechanic]

I don't know if I'd soak 'em for a week but a Thursday, Friday, Saturday and then try it on Sunday might be all you need.

I wouldn't drive it because I wouldn't want to risk any expansion or contraction of the parts from the heating and cooling messing anything up.

Good luck on your project. Make sure to take lots of pictures.. the more bloody knuckles the better... show how you sacrificed yourself in the name of performance.

[Dan in Pasadena]

MAPP gas torch, don't bother with a propane torch. Agree with not using WD-40. Use PB Blaster or Kroil, over and over.....did I mention over and over?
I agree on using a Dremel to split the nuts or a nut splitter.


Post pictures of in process.

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by seymore

OK. I got the short studs for the SSI's, I got new gaskets, nuts and adjustment tool for the valves, new spark plugs, oil, oil lines for SSI's, and all the tools I need I think. Am I missing anything before I start? I know I need to soak the studs for a week or so but does that mean no driving while they soak? I can hardly wait to get this project underway!

Don't drive while you soak the nuts; the heat will evaporate the penetrating oil.
Lift the car safely as high as you can; remove the muffler.
A hoist, or a pit, would be best for all the work you're planning.
If you're determined to change to shorter studs, the first step would be to remove the nuts with red-hot heat.
Some people skimp on the heat and screw up.
After the HE are gone, there is a different process to remove the studs:
Heat right on the case around the studs to soften the thread locker.
No heat on the studs directly, just the case!
A pin-point flame is needed to heat the case around the studs.
A very small pipe-wrench should remove the studs.
You may have to clean out the 8mm holes with a bottom tap, then use thread locker on the new studs.

Along with the valve adjust, check the head studs with the special long 10 mm Allen socket: 23-24 ft-lbs with a calibrated 3/8"drive torque wrench.
You can make a tool by cutting a LONG 10 mm Allen J-wrench, then put the long end into a regular 10 mm 3/8"drive socket.
Check the rocker shafts for correct position in the cam towers; you don't want them to leak.
Check the screen under the sump plate for debris; there should be nothing.
Yes, you want the 930 lower valve covers.
Get the Bentley SC Repair Manual!

[RoninLB]

manually lift the rocker before trying to slip feeler gauge in.