Brake Cooling Hose Manifolds

GeorgeM · GeorgeM's Garage

I finally finished one side of my homemade version of Smart Racing's A-arm hose manifolds. I just couldn't get myself to spend the $150.

I used thin wall 3"(more like 70mm or so) drain pipe from the local OBI (Germany's scaled down version of Home Depot).

I couldn't cut through the whole pipe to make two halves because it was so thin that the two halves curled in on themselves. So about a third of the pipe is uncut to keep it more rigid.

Anyway, you can kinda see in the picks how I solved that problem with zip-ties.

I still have to do the driver's side. I'm not sure it'll be worth $150 of my time when I'm done, but I guess it's the principle.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Beautiful!!

dean · 08-03-2003, 01:39 PM

Hey George,

Nice job. I hear you about the amount of time. I am the same way. If I can make something and not have to buy it, I do. Even if it takes 50x as much labor as it costs. Also nice job on the custom valence that you made and Ron bought. I think I am going to do the same.

TimT · 08-03-2003, 03:23 PM

Good job.

I have a real hard time with the price smart racing charges for these manifolds. PVC tubing is a couple of cents a foot, smart racing makes some great products, but their brake line manifolds are a plain rip off.

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

George, IMHO that is a perfect installation, exactly what I have been recommending for yrs. Please document it w/ more pics.

GeorgeM · GeorgeM's Garage

Wilco.

I'll get to the driver's side this week and take more comprehensive pix of the process.

I've never seen this type of pipe back home. PVC and ABS are much thicker than this stuff. This type also has rubber seals so you don't have to use glue (not that this feature applies here).

I also a 90 degree elbow made of the same stuff that I used for a cone filter installation. The thing fit perfectly over the filter adapter with a nice tight seal, all for about $3.

s2per · s2per's Garage

Great timing for me as I just installed and painted RSR bumpers on my SC. And I'm heading to Home D today anyway, just like most mornings when you're a general contractor. More pix would be helpful, but thanks for the inspiration.

GeorgeM · GeorgeM's Garage

Completed the driver's side today. This side went much quicker, but I was a bit sloppier with the hole placement. Oh well.

dean · 08-08-2003, 04:35 AM

Nice job again

Wil Ferch · 02:25 PM

Two questions:
--Aren't the AJ Racing backing plates made for 2.5" hose ??
--How did you handle the driver's side interference points ( water bottle, fuel evap canister, etc, etc) ??
--Also, wouldn't it be *very* important to somehow seal off the penetration of the A-arm? Seems the dynamic pressure of the air stream in the hose will like to find it's way through the past of least resistance.

Wil Ferch

GeorgeM · GeorgeM's Garage

Will.

1. Yes they are. I just removed the metal wire from the last inch and a half of the hose and it worked okay. Not optimal, but AJ was the only place I could find 930 backing plates without having to get the whole kit.

2. Washer tank is gone. Nothing else in the way.

3. Not sure how much leaks out of the A-arm holes. At track speeds, I'd assume there's enough airflow to get plenty to the brakes. I s'pose I can always wrap some duct tape around the tubes to seal up the gaps.

Wil Ferch · 08-15-2003, 11:46 AM

George:
Thanks for the answers, but seeing how "nice" you did your job, I wouldn't use duct tape. Maybe fit a rubber sheath with an "X" cross in it... and place that within the hole and rivet in place ( before you attach the tube). I guess one side of the "X" would need to be slit to fit.
---Wil Ferch

moneymanager · 05-31-2007, 06:58 PM

There's still one thing I don't get. It looks like your fancy new plastic manifold (and of course the "original" by Smart Racing) would smash into the body every time you hit a bump. As I look at my stock 74, this certainly looks like a real possibility. But apparently this isn't the case? What's the secret?

moneymanager · 06-02-2007, 03:28 PM

Though I didn't hear from anyone about the question above, I went ahead and made a set of these but in Aluminum. Working fine! For more details, go to Brake Cooling Hose Manifolds-II.

JohnJL · 10-21-2008, 10:59 PM

Well this is dragging up an oldy-but-goody. How are people accomplishing the "last mile" of directing the air to the back of the rotor? Using the AJ or Smart Racing manifolds or just aiming the hose at the back of the rotor? More pics of that please?

moneymanager · 05:01 AM

You need a flat round piece of aluminum, bolted to the hub using the holes formerly used by the cover which keeps dirt out of the works. The hose is slipped over a short piece of aluminum tubing (same size as the other) welded into the plate edge... look at the ajusa or other manifolds (our host has pictures of them) for the idea. I made a set for maybe $10 US but given the amount of measuring and fooling around I think I'd buy them next time. (Placing the tubing on the plate takes some careful fitting to make sure the hose fits without conflicting with anything else. Make the plate first, bolt it in, figure out where the tube should be placed, remove plate and weld. Cutting one end of tubing at a slight angle may help.) You also need two "air deflection plates" (again see the Pelican brake section) to force the air thru the rotor. HTH.

Peter Bull · Peter Bull's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnJL

More pics of that please?

You can find some more pictures in this thread.

/Peter

Fleming · 10-23-2008, 12:51 PM

Most of the guys here have made their own backing plates - but if your interested - I have a set of each of the turbo and 911/SC fiberglass backing plates.

These were developed for maximum air flow with the 3" hose, which needs the manifold to accommodate the hose thru the wheel house area.

Contact me if interested. Turbo $110 and 911/SC $100 shipped in the continental USA.
Bob